Seppi72

I'm sure it's around here someplace but I can't seem to locate it now that I need it, so does anyone have a spare mounting bracket that attaches to the left side of the hatch on a '72 model. I suppose that I could fab one but I'll try an easier route first. The photo is from my other '72 that will eventually get rebuilt but I'd just as soon not take that one if I don't have to as I'm in and out of that car regularly.

Sorry to have dredged up painful memories, @Terrapin Z . You and I drive in rural areas and deer are seemingly everywhere. That's why I'll try to not drive those reaches in early morning nor around nor after sunset when my car gets going again. I once had to go off-road to avoid a deer. Luckily, it only cost me a ripped-off air dam.

As do I. I've been watching a hardcore 280Z ground-up restomod on YouTube from BLOK Garage (https://www.youtube.com/@BLOKgarage/featured) and this is the way he successfully went for his brakes so I figured to give it a try as well. Time will tell.

Well, if they do leak, I get to send it back to Amazon and then buy one of the higher-end units like what @Patcon has.

Maybe name your car Bambikiller II in honor of our old friend and colleague, Carl Stahlnecker? Can't believe it's been 20 years since he passed.

@Terrapin Z , don't you just love those VTO Le Mans wheels? I can hardly wait to get my set on my car when it's closer to being drivable, hopefully by the end of July.

Yeah, @Patcon , that is a sweet kit. I've seen them online for a bit under $80 but I went with a kit about half as expensive as I'm likely to use it this one time and then, I suspect, it's a (small) boat anchor in my garage. Thanks for the O'Reilly tip, @Zed Head , and I'll take a look at my local stores (O'Reilly, AutoZone, Advance Auto and NAPA) to see what's available. I have some pre-made short metric lines that I bought probably before half of the folks in this club were born and even a couple of those impossible Nissan OE strut-to-caliper S-bend ones.

I did notice that "he" only joined CZCC only a few hours ago and has made five posts, most of which are related to photos. But, at least "he" got me interested in doing a deeper dive into flare fittings and I found a very nice, 2-minute explanatory video at Belmetric (https://belmetric.com/brake-end-m10x1-0-double-bubble-flare/?).

Thanks, @rex_morten , that's clearly the answer I was hoping for as a want to add a Wilwood proportioning valve, which uses 3/8-24 SAE fittings, to my car but don't yet want the expense of going "full-on Wilwood" with a new vac booster and master cylinder as well. It seems odd to me that, because these items have to be machined after casting anyway, that Wilwood does not offer a 10 mm x 1.0 version of their all-in-one valve yet they do offer metric versions of their single line proportioning valve (lever or knob style). I'm going to ask Wilwood about that. Heck, what about offering an 3/8-24 SAE male to 10 x 1 female metric adapter? Does anybody make that?

Does anyone know whether the double flares on a 3/16" brake line made by an SAE tool will work; i.e.; not leak, when used with metric fittings like the 10 mm outlets on an S30 brake master cylinder? I looked high and low online and could not find a metric flare kit.

Resurrecting this old topic (of which the original situation was rectified), if I were to get the Wilwood proportioning valve shown here, my understanding is that would totally replace the OE unit that's shown in the reprint of Dens240 photo from earlier. Correct? I'd then need to fabricate some new brake lines from the MC to the Wilwood valve and then from the valve to the distribution lines. Are there brake line union connector bits where I could mate new lines to the existing ones or would I have to fab new lines throughout the car?

Today, I was finally able to install the rear interior panels on my 240Z. I got the upholstery work done last summer and have been waiting for this day for a long time. I always was dissatisfied with the all-black interior that was in my car originally and wanted to lighten things up during my restomod. So I went with sky blue for as much of the interior as I could do so. I think it looks great, especially up against the royal blue carpeting. Now to get the hatch bolted onto the car so I can turn my attention to the front end.

The wheels of my original-owner 1972 240Z (HLS30-46372) touched the ground yesterday evening at 6:30 p.m. EDT for the first time since the restomod was started in July, 2008. In honor of the occasion, the American Racing Libre 14x6 wheels that I bought for the car in 1973 were outfitted with new 205/50 tires. Next on the agenda: installing the 3.1 L stroker motor.

If it will fit, you're welcome to have my OE tranny mount. But I'll measure that drop tomorrow and let you know. I suspect a 1/8" flat steel bar would work just fine but wouldn't look as nice.

I have an early 1972 car (HLS30-46372) with a build date of 9/71 that has been a restomod project. I needed a tranny mount because I cannot find the original mount -- a not inconceivable situation considering this project has been ongoing for almost 15 years. I found someone in the Atlanta area who offered to sell me a mount for $80 but the guy turned out to be a scammer. Beware of those A-holes. I ordered a new tranny mount from Techno Toy Tuning (T3). It is a gorgeous piece of machined aluminum. There was just one problem: It did not fit my car as it was too wide; i.e., the slotted mounting point holes are a nominal 310 mm apart. However, my car's mounting points are a nominal 280 mm apart. Interestingly, the mount does fit my other 1972 car (HLS30-81416, build date 5/72). After several conversations with folks at T3, the owner, Gabe Tyler, offered to both design and build a steel mount to fit my 'unicorn' car. That work is in progress and I hope to have the part by the end of June. So, my first advice to you is to measure the distance between your tranny mount points on your car so you know what you need. You might have a unicorn as well. Secondly, be sure to deal with reputable folks when sourcing parts. Thirdly, if you need a 280 mm mount and I find my original tranny mount soon, or if the 310 mm mount in my other car will fit your car, it's yours for a nominal cost.

Well, regardless of the brand, a 15x7 with 0.0 offset is closely related and I wouldn't expect the edges to be that different. In fact, while going through my wheel and tire collection, I actually have an old set of 225/50R15 Yokohama ES100s on some bent rims (tree stump, don't ask) so I'll just have them transferred to the VTO wheels and see how things look.

And I still have the American Racing 14 x 5.5 Libre wheels that I bought in 1972. The best I can do for them is 205/70R14 but there is still quite a selection available.

Ah, yes, ASTM testing. Went through a LOT of those when I worked for some automotive supplier companies. There's an entire industry that just builds the test rigs. Seems like I was always accused of giving my bosses double (medical) strokes. Fun times...

Yeah, no coilovers for me yet. There's plenty of clearance within the wheel for an even larger diameter brake disc and bigger calipers too but I'll stay with my S12 calipers and slotted disc for now. I may just go to the local tire store where I'd have any Tire Rack purchase mounted and have them mount a Brand X 225/50-15 tire (if they have any such thing) on one wheel to bring home for clearance evaluation. I do also have 1/2" spacers that might come into play. Things are so more complicated when the car isn't driveable. It's just a shame that so few manufacturers are even making wider 15" tires anymore. The Yokos and Bridgestones from Tire Rack are 200tw tires and I'm not planning on doing autocross or track days with my car. One reviewer said he lost about 2/32" of tread depth in just 1,800 miles of daily driving (they started off at 7/32") but it seemed to have slowed down after that. If I drop down to 215/50-15, there is a Vredestein Sprint+ 320tw tire at Tire Rack and the few reviews of it are very complementary.

I mean, I support and have spent thousands at both MSA and ZCar Depot as well as with other specialist suppliers like Skillard, Pierce Manifolds and California Datsun, but I can't justify paying an $8-12 freight charge on a $10 part. If I knew the dimensions, I could search for it at Grainger and pick it up from the Columbus retail store. Same thing if I order stuff from JEGS as it has a Columbus retail store. Maybe not the sharpest knife in the drawer but I am blessed in that geographical regard at least.

It is, and I did order the part from my nearby Nissan dealer even though it was more expensive. Saving the ridiculous freight charges AND my local club getting a 10% parts discount at Columbus-area Nissan dealers made that the best option. And, it will be here tomorrow morning from the Chicago warehouse.

Just took the survey and it caused me to get my 15x7 VTO (0 offset) wheels down from the garage rafters and start looking for some decent tires as the chassis will be coming off the body dolly in a few days so I can drop in the engine and tranny. I'm leaning towards 225/50-15 Yokohama Advan A052 tires from Tire Rack. The other option is Bridgestone Potenza RE-71RZ tires. I've been happy with Yokohamas in the past. Anyone have experience with either?

The illustrations I used are from the Zcar Depot website so the part numbers won't match those that MSA uses. I don't understand why they both don't just use the Nissan part numbers when that's what you'll see on the package when you get the item in question. Aside from all that, I was planning to apply lithium grease to the bronze bushing just before mating the tranny to the engine. Is that the right material choice?

I had, at first, thought that I would go that route but the narrative on the MSA webpage about the roller bearing dissuaded me from doing so.

At the tail end of the crankshaft on an L-series engine, there is a hole along the centerline into which fits the tip of the transmission input shaft. In the OE engine, this input shaft rotates inside a (bronze?) bushing (which is many times driven out of crankshaft using the "bread/hammer technique." Clearly, the bushing can be replaced like-for-like with a new bushing, Nissan part number 32202-30000. ZCar Depot sells this part under its part number 200-557. Motorsport auto also sells this part. However, ZCar Depot (MSA as well) also offers a roller bearing (its part number 200-753) that can be swapped in for the pilot bushing. The claim is that this is a Nissan Competition part but I cannot find any reference to it in my informational resources. MSA only recommends this roller bearing for competition cars and NOT for street machines. Does anyone know the Nissan part number or have specifications for it as I suspect it's a common part found through Grainger or a similar vendor?