frank13

Thanks Lance, next time I go to the bone yard i'll be armed with my measuring tape. Then I will see just what is going to really be involved. I also like them when I seen them at the breakers. Seats where in very great condition, except for ONE rip on drivers. Which was repairable. I hope the size fit as compared to stock 240 seats. $20 bones a seat is not too bad for updating the comfort level.:devious:

If anybody shops at AutoZone Here are some part numbers I went and looked up thinking of you 240 owners. For an OE type pump I found Beck/Arnley #151-5725 $66.90. This is not a lifetime warranty pump. I did not pull one out of the box to check it out. I realize now that I should have. I will go back to do this latter. For those of us that have '70-'72's I found a universal pump. Master universal fuel pump #E8016S. This is wired through the oil pressure switch according to the instructions. 2.5-4.5 lbs. 12V. This is a lifetime warranty pump. Which means at AutoZone if it ever goes out you get a new one free. $34.99. Comes with a bracket and acouple pieces of hose. Nice little kit for stock carbs. They also had a couple other pumps for much more. Also if any one is looking for AutoZone wire sets which are also LLT try part # 9677. These are for a 80-83 810 Maxima (L24E). Green box are red 7mm wires look cool but not made any more. Black/orange box are black. Look stock and are also 7mm. Not bad for $18.:devious:

Hey 2adz, Got any info on the way you wired up the maxi fuse box and where you bought it? I read some where once about some one who changed over to maxifuse something or the other. At the time I thought he ahd changed over from the original in dash fuse box. I looked and loked for information on this conversion, if it even existed to no fruition. :devious:

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Make sure all the above checks out. Then check Battery voltage. If below 12.60 Volts, dcharge it up on low amps. 5 to 10 amps for a while. 12.66 and above is fully charged voltage for a 12V car battery. Once charged chck cranking vlotage at the battery. If below 9volts replace battery and or check your charging system. Under 9.5 volts computer controlled cars will not want to work. If that checks out, then check your ignition module. How do you know the coil is good?:devious:

What the hell does a 240K look like??? Better yet what the hell is a 240K. (it's Aussie for a Z right?) What that's Fosters for beer. Yum, Fosters.:devious:

What I should have put was a club sponser. www.dashboardrestorations.com.au/ :devious:

I have never cut any of my consuls to clear the stick shift throw in any of my 5 speed swaps. The '79 and up 280ZX has a great boot set up. It's really three pieces. The lower dust seal, the outer rubber for the shifter (very thick) and the metal trim that holds it very secure with the formentiond screws. I just got mine out of a very straight '79 280ZX at the breaker yard. This will take care of the dust seal and the rotten leather boot in my '71. As well as keep my attention on the road instead of watching my drive shaft spin round & round & round.:devious:

Mr. Camouflage, Maybe the pich is so high because of her age??? J/K. :devious:

O yeah fuel cell install looks very sane.:devious:

Hey David, Why do her parents call you Frank (pancho)? I sorta figured that's what the visa part was about, just can't get the pancho part? When you could, sure would like to see what that exhaust looks like. Even out of the car. I've always that the Z would look good with dual exhaust. A L6 mustang my buddy owns has dual exhaust with flowmasters. Thing set of car alarms! Sounds great. I can only imagine what a real engine with that sorta set up would sound like?:devious: :devious: :devious:

Hey GaryZ240, do you have the part numbers for these parts? For reference when one of the other members (me), needs to replace these items we could use the exact part #'s. That way when the pimple faced kid or the old man who both hate their job doesn't want to look them up we can say "here let me have two of this NAPA part number!" If you would be so kind and post it here, if you still have the information. Thanx:devious:

Like to see some pics of that exhaust. Or is it only one tip out the passenger side? It's dual right? Would post some pics of that & maybe a little info on it? Thanx panchovisa (play on words? Pancho Villa?):devious:

DJACEY, it is possible to use later 5 speed in the early '71's. Grab the shifter out of a later 240 that is already bent. Or one that somebody has already bent more by heating it up when they swaped thier 5 speed in. Like at a breaker yard. The bend goes from the front of the consul openning, then bends back towards the choke. Also with the '71 you have to cut 2 or so inches of the openning up foward to clear the shifter throw. Bambikiller240Z, hey Carl. I don't rember my '72 having the same cover as my '73. Every original '71 or '72 had the center consul with the ash tray on top of the fuse box. I could be wrong, i'm sure I had two '72's but can't remeber one of them? Was your center consul in the mentioned '72 original?:devious:

I do not want to step on toes here Mike. But it seems like your describing leaveing the rear brake cylinder open while you pump fluid out of the brake master to fill the catch bottle enough to cover the end of the hose. The reason you want to cover the tip of the hose in the catch bottle is to help the fluid evacuate itself from the brake system. This should be accomplished be pouring some freash brake fluid in the bottom of said receptical. By pumping out old fluid through the lines you can suck air back in through the bleeder screw. The air then being brooken down into smaller bubbles every time the pedal is pumped. Traditionaly the method for bleeding brakes was to pump the pedal 3 or more times, then crack the line under preesure. In this day and age even on none ABS cars this has been found not to be the best way. Pump once smoothly hold, break line. Close wait a bit, repeat. The wait time is to allow the air bubbles to reconstitute themselves. Bigger bubbles air easier to get rid of. On the Z like you mentioned it is farthest first. Bleed the right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Getting rid off all the old fluid in the resevoirs first and then bleeding the master is great advice. If you want to flush the system or are cleaning the master Denatured alcohol (home depo) should be used. This also holds true for the Clutch system. :devious:

Also the 240 here diddn't come with five speeds. The early style 4 speeds for the early 240's had a straight stick shift lever. That ran straight up throght the tranny tunnel. Later 4 speeds like the '73 had slightly different bends to the shifters, as well as the updated 4 speed, with the non adjustable clucth slave cylinder.:devious:

Motor Sport Auto (MSA) in Orange, California. www.zcarparts.com :devious: