Toiletduck34

I just bought about 2 1/2 cars off someone from a failed project that has been sitting for 7-10 years. The purchase came with these webers. I think they are genuine spain made but i want to get more opinions that know more about this stuff. They have a red cage that covers the intakes but the foam was dry rot so i took it off. I would be looking to sell these potentially as im probaby going down the road of fuel enjection anyways.

thank you! i am was getting ready to sandblast the 280z. i know the metal is thin but didnt think about early z's being more sensitive. I think im going to get it because i think all my extra parts i could sell and recoup some money. I have to double check but i think it comes with 3 weber carberators that are new or re-built. depending on if they are clean, im getting the entire lot for less than what those cost.

I'm currently in a predicament where i have the option to buy a dissasembled early vin (under 9000) 240z body and all its components for a decent price... my predicament is i have a 280z which im working on and in a very similar state but the body has seen better days and i've already put work/$ into it, and it needs alot more. Should i buy the 240 and swap to that? what would you say the <9000 VIN 240z would be worth? not much rust at all. most of its been repaird. just light rust from sitting for a few years. (will be sand blasting regardless) my issue is i will have boxes and 2 chassis on rotisseries. lol

They are 10mm x 1.25. I'm not reusing the old hardware so i made my own chase with one of the old bolts and that cleaned them up. thank you for everyones help.

There were 10 mm bolts in the holes but the thread was wrong and they only went in about 3/4 of a turn

I'm not trying to install a bumper I need to know what thread this 10 mm is. 1.0? 1.25?

1977 280z. Front bumper mounts. My car didn't come with a bumper and none of my bolts fits.

1977 280z AFM from an EFI engine. Car had been sitting, everything looks in working order. asking $150 obo. located in Gilbert AZ

Its too bad repoductions cant make a cheaper alternative... or find a similar light off an different vehicle.

I have a 280z and im adding a body kit which uses the 240z rounded turn signals in the front. I've been looking around and can barely find any. Most for sale are $200+. is that the case? why are they so expensive!? I am finding a few forums from 5+ years ago people selling them for $50 and so on. I would think aftermarket Repo's would be cheaper.

Thank you Zed, I didnt take any good pictures of the transmission yet, so i zoomed in on from another photo. I think it is the 4 speed F4w71B. I think i remember seeing the plate with 6 bolts infront of the shifter. Doing more research mine is a 01/77 build so its more than likely a 4 speed. Once I'm closer to finishing the build i think i'll try to buy a 5 speed.

I'm in the middle of a restoration and I want to confirm what transmission I have. I would get markings off the trans but I'm out of town. Is it a 4 or 5 speed? Came out of a 1977 280z. When driving it I only had 4 gears but I felt like there should have been 5 but it wouldnt go in.

Thanks for the input! The dash is a big project and i think im going to spend my time on the body of the car for now and set this aside. More than likely ill buy a new one vs repairing this one. there are so many issues with this one its beyond saving i think. might get a cracked one with only a few cracks vs 100.

I'm pretty confident I can fill most the cracks... But one of the previous owners glued on a cover and there's a lot of rubber style glue everywhere

It does feel like a thick rubbery substance that looks to be brushed on. the passanger side has this as well and is most certainly does have rust to the point i will be replacing the floor pan. Might be doing both sides it looks like.

I was about to go get some dry ice to work on clearing old sound deading but I found this under the carpet. This isn't factory correct? As long as I don't find rust on the underside side I think I'll leave it. Looks too hard to remove fully. Or suggestions are welcome.

Thanks for the imput, I am going back and forth between the options. I know i'll have to do fabriation work to get the Z depot floors to fit, but I dont mind fab work. I just dont know if theres more of a pain getting seat rails mounted or other obstacles that will creat a conflict. I just got a 1977 280z as a project and the previous owner decided the best way to make his car look dfferent was to add about 200 pounds of bando so i feel you on that. gotta love a good project.

I am needing to replace my right side (passenger) floor as there are a few spots of rust. I will be replacing the seat rails as well. I am looking at the Z Car Depot and kfvintagejdm floor pans. The KF floor pans look to be exact molds of the OEM parts while the Z car depot are less detailed aftermarket style. I dont care to keep my car looking OEM and the Z car depot are 1/2 the price about. anyone have expierence with these two options and why i shouldnt go with the Z car depot option? (plus for me would be the Z car depot gives the left side as well if i need for almost the same price as one side of the KF pans) https://zcardepot.com/collections/sheet-metal/products/floor-pan-replacement-sheet-metal-240z https://kfvintagejdm.com/shop/datsun-280z/complete-right-side-floor-pan-datun-280z/

I am in the process of restoring a 280z where i will be adding the Rocket Bunny kit. This kit adds 4 inches to the width of the car so i will be adding larger tires. I've been doing research and found a few articles about current builds with this kit and they are running 17x9.5, -15 off set (FRONT), 17/10, -25 offset (BACK). or similar with 16 inch wheels all with the stanard bolt pattern 4:114.3/4:4.5 I am trying to find options and basically cant unelss they are completly custom which i probably dont want to afford. I technically found a way to do it with 5:120 bolt pattern and a more typical offset around +25 but i would be running 50mm spacers which isnt the best idea. I do like the deep lip offset look of the tires which i would lose by doing this. any suggestions?

Man this guy wasnt a good welder. Instead of cleaning up the welds he just added 1/2 inch of bondo to smooth over it. Luckily 70% of the welds didn't even penetrate so they were easy to cut off

The wiper motor is under the cowel, i think he has it mixed up that you cant take off the fenders without taking off the cowel. there are 2 large bolts holding on the fender under the cowel.

This Cowel only had screws that were accessable from under the hood then had tabs that were held inplace with some rubber inserts... besides the welded edges to the fender. lol

Success! I should be able to salvage the fender and cowel.

I'm glad its not common. the previous owner did some weird stuff to this car in the 80s to make it look a certain way. im not so happy im the one who chose to remove all this bondo and booger welds. Ohwell. i guess this is what i signed up for when i wanted a project car. hopefully there isnt as much rust on this car as others.

Is it common for these cars to also Weld the Cowel panel to the fender? I just grinded down the bondo he put connecting the fender and cowel and its welded as well. I dont think he though anyone would ever need to replace the wiper motor. haha. might need to buy a new cowel :S