HusseinHolland

Installed the correct U Joint (TUS-11a) today, and then reinstalled the prop shaft, heat shield, exhaust, starter, fan clutch & throttle linkage at the firewall. Also added an OEM 5 speed shift knob. Driving it around a little - it definitely feels nicer than the 4, and doesn't make the horrendous noises of my worn out 4 speed. 3rd is a little whiny below 4K rpm though. No idea how many miles were on the trans. Installed the joint in the yoke first. Started with one cup pressed in enough that the circlip could be installed, with the cross set in so the needle bearings don't walk, then set & pressed the second cup in just enough that the circlip fit in the groove Then I did the same with the prop shaft, set one cup in deep enough to set the circlip, then did the same for the last cup. Normally I'd just tap the cups in the way I remove them, but since the initial opening of the yoke has a step in it from the staking, that doesn't work very well ( I tried that first). After the joint was fully installed I just tap each yoke in the open vice jaws to relax the yokes after pressing, that makes sure the cups aren't tight or binding in the yokes. It felt perfect. Prop shaft back in Heat shield on exhaust on Trans filled - only took 2 quarts (started dripping at the end of the 2nd quart. I was surprised, as I thought these took more than 2 quarts to fill Fan clutch back on ( I had removed it as it was mentioned the engine dropping at the rear could cause interference).

Weather moved around - didn't rain all day as predicted - so, I was able to get started on fitting and welding in the first repair section of the inner rocker Cut out back to solid metal on th car- made Initial cut of filler piece Test fit. The drop in sill to rocker lip is perplexing - I don't see a stagger like this at the front of the driver's side after some back & forth - I left a section of the floor lip that coincides with the area I had to remove mostly welded - rain is coming back so I primed it all with weld-thru zinc primer. Lip alignment seems OK now. Just a slight step at the front Just tacked on the underside where the floor pan had to be welded The remaining rearward inner section should be possible with just plain "L" or possibly a dogleg section I bent a range of options on my friends metal brake. Lower piece will be the rear rocker section repair section I have that was cut from a parts car only goes as far as the pillar The rear section is a little hairy towards the jack point & behind were the tie-in to wheel arch happens. Once all this is addressed, the rocker skin can go back. Acid soaking a spare set of 280Z front control arms to remove excess rust. I need to modify these to fit the Apex Engineered front subframe. Didn't want to cut up the originals which are far too nice a condition to modify TUS-11a UJoints finally came - hopefully tomorrow I'll have time to install one.

I dunno - I also found a large amount of horseshoes, railroad tie nails and a pair of gas filing station 'guns' from the days before the vent caps were required. Not sure what all that was about.

Scraping away at the underside where I will need to make a cut Shoulder gets wider towards the rear. It's been very hot & humid making it difficult to work outside Cross section of rocker/sill/B pillar reinforcement cut from a wreck Drilled out the sill welds on the spare section - I want to try & cut the inner repair piece from this Cut some sheet metal in preparation for bending Have to match the rocker section, and make some inner support sections Also put new handles on two sledge hammers I dug out of the yard many years back. Now I have 4 sizes - these two fall in the middle

Still waiting for Datsun parts. So, I started fixing the rust on the Volvo pickup right rocker panel. Driver's side has no issues. Pretty bad. It was bad when I got the wagon 3 years ago started poking from the inside cut most of the outer skin off have to fix the inner structure before I can replace the rocker skin. This mid section below the captive nut is the reinforcement for the B pillar, all this has to be replaced Scraped all this sealant/undercoat back from the floor to rocker lip, to make sure nothing will catch fire when I start welding in new sections

Because I want the same rolling OD. I'm assuming the tire will sit approx 1/4" outside the wheel rim. Since it is narrower than the tires I'm running, it may in fact be OK with just the 1/4" spacer I already need for the Konigs to clear the calipers

OK - finally found a wheel that seems like it should work (on Amazon, so I could return it fi not) - Hyundai 15x5.5, 4 x 114.3 ET45 - can't find any RWD offset steelies in this size and bolt pattern Dorman 939-200 Needs a 3/8 - 1/2" spacer to make sure the tire will clear the strut spring seat. brake clearance is plentiful I have 205/50x15's on there. 185/55x15 is close enough rolling OD, and narrower so should fit nicely in the spare well. Ordered a 185/55R-15 SUMITOMO HTR ENHANCE LX2 SL from Tirerack

While I'm in wait mode for the TUS-11a Ujoint, I cleaned up the floors & undersills where the undercoat was either non existent or damaged, and primed exposed areas, then stone chip protection then undercoat. Have to wear a coat & respirator - this stuff is nasty. The ambient temps are in the 90's, so I think I lost about 5lbs in water weight by the time I was done. Area that was beaten to fit the 350Z seat wire-brushed the original undercoat & soaked with some turps to soften up the old stuff. Chipped off the loose bits. Replacement (warranty) tension rod bushings came, so I pout those in also

Broke down & bought an OEM fuel sender from ZcarDepot - I've gone through two different aftermarket senders, and both leaked around the sender pins. Installed it today Hopefully the end of my gas smells

When I spoke with him, he said that joint is very low volume sales, not sure he would change the listing details. It not even in his sizing chart. I re-read one of the posts on HybridZ, and Oblithian, with a '75 2+2 had the same size Ujoint requirement (except he measured span @ 1.647", but still). He ordered 430-11a

Spoke to Jason at the UJointStore (where I had ordered the TUS-10's) - based on my measurements, my prop shaft takes the TUS-11a - .947" cap OD, 1.65" yoke land spacing

Dang. That would explain it then. I just used the collar that came with the trans, as the new one I ordered came as the (obviously) incorrect part. I didn't catch any alternate dimension collars when I was looking on RockAuto, not that that is a surprise.

On to the next area of frustration. I ordered a joint (Dana 5-1501X) off RockAuto for the prop shaft. When it appeared that wasn't going to arrive anytime soon, I ordered a pair of 430-10 based on the posts in the other threads. Neither version is the correct size for the prop shaft on my '75. My joints are 2.575" from outside of cap to outside of cap, and have .947" OD bearing caps. The Spicer 5-1051X is 2.525" outside, and has .985" caps (same as replacement listed on ZcarDepot) Caps are TOO big, joint is undersized The TUS-10 (430-10) is 2.34" outside, and has .875" OD caps - WAY too small all around. Removing the factory joint - some ppl mentioned a stake ring that can be removed - there is no such thing on mine. I ground the stake area out, and removed the UJoint using the same process as for a standard external snap ring style remove the caps holding the yoke to the shaft then remove the caps holding the joint to the yoke Yoke to shaft orientation is marked inner land where the lock ring will presumably sit ID of yoke - approx .955" - no way a .985" cap is going in that Datsun cap to cap (measured at 2.575" / 65.5mm?)when holding the caliper, have to recheck that # Datsun cross end to end approx 2.405 / 61mm Cap OD approx .947" / 24mm cross shaft OD approx .702" / 18mm TUS-10 5-1051X

Lever offset - approx 4 /34" with new clutch Going to the old trans & setting the fork to the same offset, then extending fork 1" rearward fork to sleeve contact at 1" extension Sleeve offset at the 4.75" setting I guess I could mod the pivot pin (move it forward/extend the seat) so that the lever is moved forward. That would reduce the travel of the sleeve & move it back closer to stock. I honestly don't know why the new clutch setup (intended for 81 280ZX NA) has a different stack height than the old clutch & T/O. I'm not going to take it all apart, as no matter what I find I would have to return / replace the clutch to hopefully find a resolution to the issue of the changed lever offset.

Since I still have the complete 4 speed with fork & bearing/collar, I could measure the revised fork rest position & then observe the fork/collar contact over the 1.25" or so travel required to disengage the clutch. I might out of curiosity's sake. As long as it lasts a year or so, that's really all that matters. As the clutch wears the fingers will move rearward, reducing the fork throw anyway - but, I am unlikely to put enough miles on it for that to come into play before the whole mess comes out for the V6/CD009 swap.

I did install the longer slave push rod from the Volvo - that one fit perfectly, and pedal feel & travel is good. I used the Honda boot - had a little more travel allowance

Waiting for Z parts. Getting ready for a retake of the Ithaca trip in the pickup. Yesterday my wife pointed out that there was a bad noise coming from under the passenger side - the cat was disintegrating. I don't have another cat to put in - so today I modified a resonator to fit Test fit - cut the flange and extension pipe off the dead cat - tacked to resonator welded, added bung for O2 all good. good offset on the O2 Also had to fix my Mum's weed whacker - the lower shaft wouldn't stay in the main body, so I just drilled it & put a set screw in there

Thank you for finding that - I have more than 1.5" off the backside of the fork to the back of the casting opening. I need about 1/2" extra rod length to take up the slack. I don't see any difference in PN listings for the slave cylinder between the 280Z & the 280ZX. I know ZcarDepot sells one with an adjustable rod, so I assume this has come up for others. The new disc is substantially thicker than the worn one, I want to say at least 1/6th inch, which would draw the fingers in, since they move rearwards as the disc wears. Not seen this symptom on any other car I've installed a clutch (that was listed/intended for the vehicle in question) on though. I'll play with a longer rod & see if it disengages as expected -have to put the exhaust, etc., back on to test it running of course. Hopefully it's not all coming back apart.

I went through my collection of hydraulic clutch components. Datsun Hnoda Volvo 700 Fiat X1/9 The Volvo one may be just long enough. It also has a wear resistant head. Otherwise, I mod the Fiat one. Old clutch The old disc is significantly thinner than the new - I didn't check the stack height of the whole clutch though Cleaned up the spacer plate and heat sheild New rear main installed installed & torqued the flywheel - 105 ft/lb . Volvo flywheel lock tool from the 70's Disc centered, PP torqued to 15ft/lb New PP only uses 6 bolts like the original 3 Guide pins made it easy to set the trans on the motor. That was a nice tip Shifter attached. I had to shave one of the top hat bushings to get it to fit in the fork Trans in place, mount set. Took a bit with that, I had to leave the mount loose on the trans to get everything to align as it was lifted into place. Think I had it backwards first time around Speedo cable attached, all new seals Reverse light switch swapped over from the 4spd. Cleaned & primed the left frame rail - looked like brake fluid must have stripped all the paint at some point

New issue - I don't recall anyone mentioning an issue with the slave cylinder but the offset is wrong on mine. I used the clutch complete intended for the 81 300ZX, and the throw out lever, pivot and bearing. Anyone else experienced this? I'm assuming the operating throw is the same, just a longer rod required?

I've ordered a set

That's how I ended up cracking them free

I didn't read through your entire thread, however I'm just replacing one U Joint, and I'm not getting involved in re-balancing the prop shaft. I don't want to over complicate this - I've never had or heard of the need to re-balance a Volvo prop shaft, or even considered it a requirement when replacing u joints, and that setup is 2 piece, 3 joint with a carrier bearing. I find it hard to believe the Nissan spec is that sloppy that replacing a joint would throw the shaft balance out. I do make a point to mark & install the yokes as they came out. Ultimately, I will be modding the prop shaft for the CD009/VQ35DE conversion, so I'm only replacing the front joint so it doesn't put undue strain on the bushing in the tailshaft, or the trans bearings.

I see. I missed your second reply (above) with the link to examples of the Nissan setup. I have never seen such a complex setup for installing a UJoint. Typical Domestic & EU Spicer joints rely on a recess groove in the outer portion of the yoke, which the retaining ring/clip will seat in once the UJoint is placed. There is no adjustment - that part is quite confusing, given that Nissan seems to be a stickler for precision. Having so many thicknesses of clips implies that the production tolerance margins for the yokes (and/or the joints) must be pretty loose. I have replaced many a standard U-Joint in the past - Volvo used 2-piece driveshafts with 3 1140 or 1310 joints on all their RWD models, and worn joints was a pretty common thing. in my experience it's mostly been a question of tapping the cross back & forth a smidge to get the right 'feel' in the joint before installing the clips. With the provided info you have given, I will have to pay close attention to the fit.

Interesting! Do you have any pics of it installed? They don't have any directions or install pics I can find on their website. I have seen a couple of cars at the Carlisle Import Show in PA that had steering rack Tie rods modded to fit also.