HusseinHolland

Worked on the passenger seat today. Cut off factory mount ears spacer for inner rear, to allow clearance for the fore/aft shaft hold down removed the occupant sensor & pad grid is reverse of drivers side With the module powered, I momentarily shorted the for/aft pin to the adjacent power pin & let the smoke out 🤪. I discovered that was all that was necessary - no bridge wire was needed on this one, all switches operate as they should. modding the seat belt reel mount locator stripped the old upholstery modded the outer cap/ switch retainer to clear the seat belt reel. Welded the three seat mount brackets I made in place to match DS layout

Wrapped this up (finally). I tried a number of ways to connect the center pins of SW4 to the fore/aft motor (A2), without much success. I found that spiking the center pin to the adjacent power pin would bring the circuit alive - but only long enough to move the motor briefly. I repeatedly spiked the connection, to see how long I could get it to hold function. Doing this ultimately killed whatever switches the power to the switch grid, which turned out to be what was needed, as with that I added a jumper from the switched power feed at the top of the card to the switch power grid & now all the switches work. I guess I basically lobotomized the board 🤪

So, working on the switch today - I had it hooked up to the seat & powered. I figured out that the switch power & ground circuit is activated by the switched power on the secondary connector (B1) . Using a test light, I confirmed the (+) switching action (purple tracer). I tried activating the relay(s), nothing. I tried bridging the A6 terminal to the ground run of the switches (yellow tracer). I tried jumping the ground relay (3) and one leg of relay 1 or 2, and none of that activated the output to any of the 4 motors. I considered hooking up one of the older power seat switches I have from >MY2000 P80 & 7/960s. Problem with those is that the motors are each powered by 2 separate wires from the switch module - the newer motors share the ground leg at the switch module. I would have to rewire the ground legs of each motor to isolate them from each other. I went back to playing with the stock module. At some point in testing permutations, I bridged a circuit on the board that created a short - I heard the pop that let the smoke out of something on the board. After that, three of the 4 switches operate without issue. The fore/aft one does not. I wish I knew which chip I fried, I would do the same for the passenger switch. I'm going to try bridging the switch 4 contacts to A2 & A6, to see if that overrides the circuit that is inhibiting operation. B2 & B5 connect to the seatback release switch - allows you to move the seat forward when the setback is flipped forward. That works. I bridged what was formerly the heated seat switch supply, to provide power to the seat modules This was the seat end - I replaced the terminals/connector with terminals that can handle 25A

Working on installing Volvo C30 seats in the 740 pickup. The rails are about 2" narrower than the 740 rails. Not enough to be able to fit brackets on the outside of each rail, and be able to get bolts through. I set the seat position based on the inboard rail, drilled a mount hole through the rail to secure the inner rear corner. After that I was able to square & level the seat, fabricate mount ears for the other three corners, attach the seat belt reel, and get the DS seat bolted in. Tried to get the memory seat module to operate - it wants CAN I/O, which I can't provide So, I stripped the seat down & hardwired the fore/aft motor to allow me to set the mount points Rail offset to the inside allows me to fit mount brackets Spacing on the inside, clears console Using the 350Z seat rail mount remnants that I cut off when installing them in the 280Z C channel for the forward outer, wanted a reasonable overlap section onto the rail for welding Tab cut from the stock C30 rail mounts for the forward inner Belt reel fitted with minor mods Notch outer seat panel to clear belt reel So the tricky part of this install is going to be the wiring. I have to figure out how to bypass the CAN controller aspect & power the switches / relays so that the stock switches will operate the seat. I don't really care about not having the various memory options. Googling ways & means of either emulating(?) the CAN signals, or bypassing it all, I found this thread on Matthews Volvo Site. Pretty helpful, difference for me is the Seat module is more complex than that earlier one from an S60. Simply bypassing the ground relay is more complicated. I used Google Lens to look up the relays on the board - with that I drew out the relay schematic, and used my multimeter to determine the switch connections. I don't know which is (-) & which is (+) on the connected pathway illustrated at the bottom left Any suggestions welcomed!

Going over things that need attention in the house to make it presentable for sale. The downstairs bathroom has needed gutting for years, since we're selling in the next year, we are just sprucing it up. Took out the old vanity top & sink New vanity top w/integrated sink, faucet, new handles, towel racks, etc. Don't want to spend to much, as whomever buys will likely rip it all out anyway.

350Z is now nestled in back on my new slab

Filled the trench & graded the ground. Wired the receptacles today West side (end of run) South side With sliding cover down.

From the install video

So, of course there were problems. I should never have buried the conduit before I had the actual wires run through it. I had to dig up the West end & cut the conduit so I could feed the 12/3 through the bends. I ran fish tape from the other end, and then tied the 12/3 to it & pulled it back to the 1st post. Tomorrow I have to install the 2nd post here, then I'll fill the trench

About 8" is buried.

No, that's it. 30" total length. Power Post

Dug the rest of the trench around the West side, and run the conduit. I had forgotten to order more 12/3 solid THHN, so I ran a snake so I can pull through the wire through tomorrow. connected the first leg to the feed off the receptacle 1st post in place, I'll remove the cap to feed the second run through Started packing the trench & grading the ground away from the patio - this area has always held water.

Worked on running conduit & 12/2 for the receptacles. Dug a 18" deep 20' trench along the South side for it. Still have to dig a trench along the West side

Yeah - at least the upper balustrade(?) has rotted away, probably more. We are going back in about month to look it over.

Looking at houses around Ithaca, NY. Saw a bunch yesterday & today, one we thought was the most hopeful turned out to have too many structural issues. So far, the one that we like the most is a little on the outskirts of the distance from downtown that we wanted. 1860's, has enough rooms for us & my Mum, but would need some internal re-arranging to give her her own space, which has to be the ground floor. Garage is big enough for me to work with for starters. needs some work on the outside, but nothing crazy. Sits on 4 acres. Still have to look this one over inside, didn't have time for this one today. small building on the left is a smokehouse.

I see that in the product description on their website, however I don't see any info on those as options or what brands would work with them.

They are $65 ea- metal weatherproof boxes & in use covers end up being about $30 ea, then I'd have to buy some sort of secure mounting arrangement, so in the end these seem 'reasonable' 🤪 18" seems to be standard for PVC conduit - so I figured I dig a little deeper, just to make sure I don't run afoul of my town codes.

I'm going to add receptacles along the perimeter of the pad - I figure one along the South edge (fence side) & one on the West (near lamppost). I'll use 12/2 wire, so it's good for 20A Trying to figure out the most practical way to do that without making something that either can be tripped over, or becomes susceptible to water ingress. I was thinking of mounting waterproof boxes with in-use covers on the outer edge of the slab, but that just seems ripe for problems. Searching around I found TayMac makes enclosure posts. This seems like a good way to go - can't be missed & I can't trip over it. Wondering if anyone on here has any experience with such a set up Started the conduit run off the GFCI protected receptacle I already installed. Conduit will be buried approx 2' alongside slab

Been working on a friend's old Volvo, needed a replacement turbo. I had called a contractor last week, to get a quote on the patio/slab behind the garage. Approx 16x20' They were able to come & do it today, so I went ahead & had it done. I'll have to get some fill to grade the ground around it. Have to wait a week before the 350Z can be moved onto it.

SO, in driving long distances in the heavy rain, I found the car handles very well. What I also found is that when I switched to defrost to clear the windshield fogging, the heat comes on. Is that a normal function of the Z system? If so, I'll have to figure out a way around it

Only pic of the Z I have from the trip - in one of the PA tunnels

Dave - the switch contacts were weak - I could start the engine (since the AFM is bypassed when cranking) - hear the pump relay click off & the engine begin to stall, then quickly apply pressure to the AFM contact (cover removed) - and the engine will resume normal operation. I retensioned the AFM contact post to make sure the connection is more consistent. I can observe the switch function now by way of the LED I added. I'll add a pic of that for reference.

Car has run beautifully all the way out to Columbus, OH. about 600 miles so far, mostly 65-70 highway speeds. It has consumed about 1/2 quart oil, which I haven't seen in local/mixed highway driving. Couple of the Fiat race cars at the Fiat Meet One of the older techs at the shop was previously a Volvo guy, and has a 90 740 16V wagon he wants to move out of his garage where it has been stored for th past 18 years. I may have to buy it Needs the head re-installed - he is now physically unable to do the work, hence the desire to see it go to another Volvo guy.

So, car started acting up & cutting out again, of course when my wife was with me. I was trying to get everything ready for the trip to Ohio tomorrow. It seemed like it was the relay block connections again, however I tested the grounds & switched feeds & that was not the issue. I put a test light on the feed signal from the AFM pump switch, and that would come & go in keeping with the car dying. With this, it is quite possible the earlier adaptor base I made from the original relay is in fact OK, and the recent problem has in fact been the AFM switch. So, I tweaked the AFM switch to put a little more tension on the point contact. In addition, I added a LED to the circuit so I can see if the problem recurs. I also added a switch to the circuit, to bypass the AFM pump switch if it fails altogether.

Still have to wait about a week for my abdomen stitches to be removed - so no exercise or strenuous automotive work going on 😞 I primed & painted the fiberglass replacement tail panels. They don't have a defined cut for the chrome area, so I may just leave them grey metallic.