kyteler

CRAP DAMNIT! I bought a new set of plugs, put them in, there was still a ever so slight hint of a miss, took the car for a bit of a run, on the way back the miss wasn't a hint anymore it was back to the way it was, CRAP! I thought. Got home, gave the car a rev, still, a slight miss was there, went to give it another rev and sit it aroun 2000rpm, but no, it cut on me, tried to restart it, to no avail. (at least I got home) Checked for spark from the coil, again, there's none, now I've got to go get another frikking condensor to try because I think it's killing them, what the hell could be causing it to kill condensors? However, I think I have my hands on a L20 Turbo 6 Skyline electric dizzy for not much but I'm not sure at the moment, still, I guess I'll have to wait to see if I can get one to see whether the miss is still there with an electronic dizzy. Again, if anyone can help, let me know, otherwise I'll just let you know how things go with a leccy dizzy later on when/if I get one.

Oh, OK. But what if it didn't have as much fuel to burn could it then cause problems? I just got my "How to Modify a Nissan/Datsun OHC" book and they don't even list the 4 in their range of plugs, the lowest (hottest) listed is a 5 so I was getting a bit worried. However though, sounds as if they'll do until I can get some 5's or 6's Thanks for your help everyone.

Japanese plugs works on a "smaller number hotter plug" basis NGK, Denso etc. American or Other plugs are the other way around "bigger number hotter plug" Champion, Autolite, etc. ie. NGK Champion BPR5ES = N11YC BPR6ES = N9YC BPR7ES = N7YC Also, I've just read on the NGK site that it's better to err. on the side of colder, as a colder plug will only foul at worst and a hotter plug can cause severe engine damage. Sounds nasty.

Oh sorry, I was trying to rule out the plugs as reasons for a slight miss. And just wanted to make sure 4's weren't too hot to use for extended periods of time, because if they are ok I'll use them until I can afford a set of 6's, I know plugs are cheap but I'm a pauper. :classic: I'd hate to screw the engine or electrics up somehow just because the plugs were too hot.

Being I'm eliminating things one by one, and plugs were one of those things, I remember my brother's old dismantled 2.8L Supra engine was in the garage and I thought well $^!#, that's got plugs, being I only need them for a bit of a test for the time being I'll give it a go if they match up. They're actually NGK BPR4ES, will these be too hot to run in my L24 for exended periods of time or be OK? The plugs that were in there were BP5ES plugs, which as I understand it is one step hotter than factory recommendation, so, the 4's will make it two steps hotter, but I don't know, is that still within limits? Again, any help appreciated.

What you have in the image sounds right. Our logistical offer will move you ! Sounds like you're referring to the offer as logistical. Our logistics offer will move you ! Sounds like your offer is in regards to logistics. Unless I'm mad. :stupid: :stupid: :classic:

Out of curiousity, how readily available are those MKII Supra P-type rims in the US, in NZ they're nowhere to be seen, and my brother wouldn't mind a set for his MkII, he also wants the P-type arch flares and hatch spoiler, anyone know of who to get into contact with? I've tried a bunch of NZ places for him but no go anywhere.

Nice ride, mmmmmmmmmm. I attempted to up the file to my gallery and am assuming got the same message as Gavin which is as follows: Gav240zDualPipes.avi: Uploaded file not found Typical reason is that the file exceeded allowed limits. Oh well, at least I've seen it now. :classic:

Isn't the L20 still a six? I know the one in the KGC110 is still a six, I think it's the L18, L16, L13 that's the 4cyl. I just did a quick search, the L20 is still a six, however the L20B is a 4, which is probably the one you were referring to, ignore me now. :stupid: My guess is the 4.1 WILL fit into the 510, because you can fit a 3.5L V8 Rover into a Ford Escort and there's probably the same amount of room if not a bit more in the 510, it'll still be a squeeze though, probably have to lift the engine to do any work to it. Would be a good conversion though. Actually come to think of it, there's a website where a guy has put a big mopar V8 into a C210 Skyline so I'd say yes. which makes it a yes it will fit answer twice. :classic:

OK, I retrieved my spark again WOOHOO! I replaced my new condensor with another new condensor and wallah, however, the annoying miss is still there. Now that my spark's back im going to try another coil and a few other bits and bobs to see what I can do. Still though, anyone have any thoughts on the miss that they may want to share that they didnt want to share before? :classic: Also, the ballast resistor, where are they situated on a Z (I'm assuming it's not too much different from the K), from a wiring diagram I found it seems they're between ignition and tach which would put them behind in the dash behind the instrument cluster somewhere. Surely not? Any help appreciated.

I thought I read in a previous one of your posts somewhere you had a 260Z before the 240. So as it took you 4 years to find your 240, I would think it a viable option especially in NZ where early Z's are rare that the purchase of a 280 would be a good intermittant choice as it'll still keep the Z bug alive and kicking and give you a pretty decent car even if it isn't to 240 or 260 standards aesthetic and performance wise. I personally would prefer a 240, no doubt, but as they're lacking over here, and the search could take a good few years as it is anyway, a 280 would be perfect. Or a 240K but good luck finding one of those. :classic: Also Gav, I'm still not able to get your vid and I'm twitching to see it, could you perhaps email it to me?

I can't get that file; Single click, it tries to use Windows Media Player to d/l and play it but comes up with an error straight away. Save Target As, it tries to d/l, says it has but it's 1byte big. Using FlashGet, Thinks it's downloaded it as well but it has a 1byte file of nothing, much like previous option. :cry:

OK, now I'm just peeved. I took the distributor off to try and see what was going on, I found at the bottom of the dizzy the bolt that attaches to the internal side of the platic piece that the wire from the coil connects to, so I put that back on to where it was supposed to be. Also at the bottom there's the two plate things that move out when spinning, one had a return spring and the other didnt have one, is that normal? I've tried it with and without the spring but now she's turning over but not even firing. There's still 12power getting to the coil but it seems to stop there, it's draining on crank I'm guessing to feed the dizzy but it's going no further than that, I put the timing light on to see whether it was getting any spark and it's not. GRR. Esentially all I did was open up the dizzy and put it back together yet now the cars not even starting where as before it was starting but missing. WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON!?! It's driving me looooooooney:stupid:

It's not that simple, the fact is, in NZ there's sweet 'f' all Z cars other than the 280ZX and Z31, Z32. Most people that do have a 240 or 260 over here are the people that hang on to them and look after them. For instance the guy who I showed my 240K to down where I am has a 240Z which he has had offers on from the Christchurch Nissan Dealer, he turns them down unless they're willing to pay ludicrous amounts, and I've only seen 2 other earlier Z cars down in the lower South Island and I saw none during the 3-4 years I lived in Auckland. Other than the 1 used in the Dunlop Targa. It's even relatively hard to find a nice example of a 280ZX, my brother had a ZX but it was riddled with rust, it's now moved onto someone who is willing to do it all up, I'm keeping in contact with him so I can see it when it's finished maybe give it a bit of a run for it's money in my K CZCar: he's been trying to sell that on trademe for a while, so chances are there's something not quite right; Firstly in the description, he says it's a 2lt yet claims it's a 280ZX, I'd find what's going on there for starters. Secondly, NO RUST? I seriously doubt it, there's plenty of places to check for rust I'm sure the people in this forum who have spent more time around Z cars will be able to help you out but the obvious ones I remember are, pillars, the bottom of the rear fenders where the drain hole gets clogged up, the same drain area in the front fenders, around the petrol cap area and the hatch and aerial are easy ones to look out for. There's also the more common in all old vehicles, battery tray, under doors, all hinges etc. Thirdly, he calls it a Nissan Bat Mobile uhmm, am I missing something? what the hell is he talking about?! However, some redeeming qualities is that it looks to be a 2seater and not a 2+2, if so, it's well, better. It's white, which is always nice in the 280. But back to bad things, those mags are disgusting!:sick: However, that's easily remedied. I'd be most worried about rust, interior has a few bits like the pillar plastic is proned to cracking and splitting, but that's all I can think of. If it's as nice as it seems it's probably not too bad a deal, but I doubt it's as nice as it seems. OOOH! also, what's with that odometer reading? I'd try find out more precisely how many k's it has on it, just so you know how much work the engine has done. Other than that.. good luck.

Yeah, you're right, I wasn't paying to much attention, just found a big dorky mouse hanging out of a Z with tyres bigger than a Hummer amusing. :classic:

Just thought some of you Z-nuts may be interested in this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3549735822&category=19061 Looks amusing, probably collectable.

Thus far I've eradicated the indicator problem by switching alternators to one I had around, however I'll still have to get a different one as the one I removed had a 12V 50A rating and the one I put had a 12V 15A rating. so that will have to be fixed up anyway. I bought a new condenser, tried it, it seems to be not quite as bad as before now it's not fully cutting out anymore however, there does feel like a slight miss still. So now I'm thinking new spark plugs and perhaps leads, the plugs in there are the wrong ones anyway it seems, they're 5's and not 6's in the designation as is recommended. Could this be a major or minor contributor to the problem? It's so frikkin frustrating, all the connections and wires themselves seem fine.

I'm having some odd probs with the 240K, She seems to miss occaisionally, the tacho jumps above and below the actual revs. I checked the spark plugs they all seem fine, disconnected them one by one to note any difference, all plugs seemed to alter the idle similarly. I disconnected, cleaned and reconnected all the wire contact points throught the engine bay, nothing. I cleaned off the dizzy cap rotor arm and contact points a little and initially it seemed to help a little, but now.. not really. And now rather than just seeming to miss slightly it's almost like the electrics die entirely for split seconds, the tacho drops right down to nothing, then of course jumps back into life. Now what I think it might be is either the condenser, or perhaps the alternator is poked, if my indicators change rate higher and lower dependant on revs, would this be a sign of a dieing alternator? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Yeah probably, but even if not, my brother would like them for his 2.8 Straight 6 MkII Supra and if he ends up not wanting them then I've already had a guy from my local Nissan dealer keen on them for a friend of his with a 240Z. But in any case it probably wouldn't be worth the cost of sending them overseas.

The PCD (Pitch Circle Diameter) of my brother's old (old as in, it's passed on to someone who is doing it up) 280ZX and my 240K and my other brother's 1989 R32 is 114.3 4stud, I'd assume the 240Z is the same, however, where you run into issues in fitting wheels into guards is the offset. Unfortunately, I have no idea what this has to be. However, I am going to try a set of Performance Suprerlites on my car (As close to Watanabe's as I can get without being them) and I'll see if I can discover what it has to be for a Z while I'm there, as I'll be trying them on my 240K. Oh, and I dare say you'll want at least 15's but 14's are more common for the year of car. The rims on my 240K at the moment are Asahi 15x7 3-piece Alloys, but I dont like gold wheels so I'm changing for the Superlites, eventually.

I'd have to say, 5spd. My Skyline is Auto however, the guy I bought it off has all the parts to convert it to manual and well, the moment I have the cash, it'll be a 5spd. Automatics just aren't any fun, at all. ... ever. And besides, having to change gears keeps you alert and also lets you downshift into just the right rev range to let out that smooth 6 deceleration sound. mmmmm, straight 6 downshift.

WICKED, you have a 4 cylinder lawnmower?! Just kidding. but seeing as it's plugs and while I'm here, does anyone run the BPR6EY, BPR6EIX or BPR6EGP ? instead of the BPR6ES? if so, any better or different?