LanceM

I've decided to remove the doors on my 240 for clean up and paint. Just thought I'd ask before I start if there is something I shouldn't do, such as don't remove the hinge from the door, or don't remove the hinge from the body.... any disaster prevention tips would be welcome, on door removal that is Thanks in advance!

Enrique is right, when I was in Korea there was a "Guest computer" on line in the lobby, had to get on it early in the morning or late at night, it seemed that most of the locals in the neighborhood considered themselves guests when using it also

Hooter's on Jimmy Carter Blvd.... Just dosen't seem right, Hooter's on Bill Clinton Ave I could see :)

Try bypassing the tach

Welcome, grounds are a big issue with these older cars, check your grounds for the lights before you tear into the switch. Do a search on turnsignals and I'm sure you will find many posts dealing with your very same issue!

1. I think is fuel 2. pcv valve 3. power brake

You remove the pump and install a block off plate to keep the oil from coming out if you are using an early head like an E88.

Just measured my 73 and didn't see any off set....

Told ya it would work Have fun!!!!

Since it has been sitting that long first I would drain what ever fuel is in the tank and put in 5 gallons of new gas, then go with what Kenny said. No need trying to start on old fuel and what ever crap is in the lines, the new gas will flush while you crank into the catch cans and when you start up you will be running on new gas not old crap!

I use the car jack under the front to lift it enough for the picker to go in, you don't have to raise it much just enough to get the lift in, once you pull the engine weight out the suspension will lift the car off the jack.

Can't say about the filler but the plug is the drain for the tank, it can be removed without bothering anything.

Enrique is right on with the looping, though it is more important when operating a transmitter on the coax than a receiver it is a good practice to follow anytime AC or RF go through a line. Another little tidbit is never bend coax in a radius tighter than 10 times it's diameter, it might crush and change it's impeadance, again more important in xmit than receive but it will cause loss and if you are looking at a weak signal it could be the differance between getting it and not. Now you can go and brag to your better half that you have learned something today, whether it will ever be of any practical use... time will tell

I've heard nothing but good things about Dave's product but for my application I'm not using any of the original plugs or headlights for that matter. So since I'm having to rewire anyway for new style plugs it's easier to just do it myself this time. Keeping orginality on this car is a point long gone...

Interesting, my 73 build date 11/72 does have relays, but that whole section is not part of the full front harness, may have been a dealer fix or add on??? Took me a while to figure out what it was all for, had to follow it back to the fuse box to figure it out!

That's interesting, did you ever determin why this was happening? I will admit that I am performing the ultimate sin and have cut up my perfect (and in great shape too) original harness to meet my design needs. Another part of my modification to this car that started 20+ years ago (long before classic and Z were spoken in the same sentence) I know that someday someone will probably be cussing the damn PO

Terminoligy is getting us here I think, there should be no need to splice the antenna coax at the antenna end or at the radio end. The antenna end of the routed (through the car) coax should have a female connector (which the stock antenna plugs into), the radio end a male. A new antenna will have a coax of what ever lenght with a male connector on it. All you should have to do to replace the stock motorized antenna with any after market one is remove the old one and unplug the coax at the antenna end and plug in the new one, on the radio end unplug the antenna coax from the old radio and plug in the new radio. You shouldn't have to route a new cable all of the way from the antenna to the radio unless your original has been cut or damaged. As Enrique mentioned splicing isn't really an option unless you use the right connectors which are hard to find now a days, and it is some strange impeadance if I remember right like 85 ohms or something like that making it in a class of it's own compaired to most RF coax. Maybe I'm confused but I just wanted to clairify my first post to make sure I wasn't confusing everyone else

Unless your original coax is damaged you should be able to plug right in to the old cable with the new right back at the antenna mount location. The original antenna only has about a foot of cable on it, the rest is part of the wiring harness.

Maybe in 280s but 240s use the switches for everything. I'm thinking of getting a relay assembly from a 280 to route things through.

RIP260Z, Here stateside RTV and silicone are terms that are used interchangeably when it comes to engine assembly sealant, though perhaps not correctly

Again I see that being in my shop working on my Z is much more entertaining and fulfilling than watching TV..... I knew I wasn't missing anything....

I didn't think that you had to have the head off to put on the front cover, if you use any type of sealent on the head gasket use a spray type like copper coat. Unless a sealer is specified usually head gaskets go on dry.

Don't let the car problems interfere with getting well, stress can make any injury worse and longer lasting. Go with the flow and let your attorney handle things. Since your are seeing him fill him in on what you know, perhaps he will take on more than the injury or have a good recommendation of someone to take over the rest. If in your state you have underinsured or uninsured insurance, we have it in Indiana, your insurance company will be picking up the bill, but having an attorney suggesting that to them may come across a lot better than you hitting them with it. Stick with it and figure that it will take time, a lot more than you want to spend for sure but first and foremost it wasn't your fault and you shouldn't be the one to take the hit for it. More than anything worry about your injury and getting better first, you work with your hands, they need to work right. A car can be repaired or replaced, health first. And one tidbit I'll pass on that has carried me through some hard times, don't remember if I was told it, read it, saw it, or made it up.. "Don't ever quit, don't ever give in, to be beat fairly is one thing, quit or give in when you still have a chance and you will forfeit everything, if you loose fairly everything is forfeit anyway, so you have nothing to loose going all the way, never quit or give in."

White is nice when new but never seems to stay that way, IMO... If you like to clean clean clean all the time it would be nice, but trying to clean a white dash with that textured surface Not to be negative but, think of... shoe marks on the trans tunnel, dirty armrests, anywhere you touch and leave skin oils dirt collects and on and on, back to clean clean clean.... But as they say, whatever floats your boat

Thanks guys, Mr. Camo thanks for the pic, worth a thousand words... Corganx33 has the answer, just what I want to do. As always you guys are worth your weight in gold for quick info!! Steve, if I ever get this thing on the road maybe we'll meet up at one of the Indy Z club functions! Thanks again all!