NCLarry

Owego, just NW of Binghampton on 17... I recall, I was pulled over at the Owego exit... Luckily, I wasn't driving the Z when it was T-boned... the hit occured after I sold it. BTW, got any other parts for a 71? and, happen to know if 73 bumps can be fitted to a 71?

Between 1988 and 1990 I used to travel between Buffalo, NY and Northern NJ in my first Z, a 1977 280Z (see gallery) that eventually succumed to a UPS truck (see gallery). I traveled along the route, usually at high speed, and was only pulled over a few times in a few years. On one occassion, I was pulled over in/near Owego, if I recall correctly. My current Z in progress, previously lived near Owega. Just outside Binghampton in a town called Harpersville. Perhaps my Z knew your Z?

How about the finish plate and coin holder for a 71 center console?

Try WalMart. WalMart seems to be everywhere now. They'll dismount/mount/balance for less than $10 per wheel. My local WalMart has even agreed to dismount my tires so I can refresh/polish my wheels and then remount/balance many months later.. Yeah, I know, polishing doesn't take that long, but with my job, kids, dog, etc. I hardly have time to take a sh*t. In any case, try WalMart, or KMart Auto if you've got one of those.

Northern NJ, hence my ID... about 4.5 hrs from Boston.

sudz: Thanks for the story. Good to hear of another owner here on the right-coast. Hurry up and get some photos uploaded... and update periodically. I'm woefully out of date in terms of updating my gallery, but soon enough. Are you planning to tear yours down, or just fix up a bit as a daily driver..

I have a 280Z style hood, over good shape that I'd like to swap for a 240 style (without vents). Anyone in the NY/Metro area have one to sell cheap or swap? If conditions don't match, perhaps swap+cash...

I also have the shelby 500 wheel and plan to polish them this winter. Mine, however, have four small holes, one between each pair of lugs, that the center caps mount to. The center caps have a flange with matching hole. Could this have been original? As is, I'm missing two of the four caps and will likely need to purchase replacements. I've seen a few sources for the caps, but I don't think any had the flange/holes to match the wheels. Thoughts?

As for the mirror, my 71 has the black 'racing' style mirror. I wasn't sure if they were aftermarket or original with car... I was concerned about the holes drilled in the pass side door. Their in decent shape, need some cleanup though.

Thanks to the advice a few weeks ago, I've finally got the dash out and sitting on the garage floor... I tell you, if I ever figure out who the previous owners (prior to the last owner were), their sure to hear a few choice words from me... OK.. I can accept some wire connectors melting together (heck, their 32 years old), but butchered jury rigged cables are unexcusable... We're not talking extra wires from accessories; why replace original wires with new wires without connectors and wrap them into the main harness with tape?!? Ughh...Now to figure if I'm better off repairing the wiring mess when it comes time or just search for/install replacement wiring and fuse box (which should probably be upgraded anyhow). I guess it's on to glass, hatch, hood and doors next...

I agree with 2Many. A 110 should be fine. In fact, I'm looking Campbell Housefeld sells a Mig Gas unit for about $300. While I wouldn't recommend it for professional daily use, it should be more than adequate for the home use. Its what I plan to buy. Occassionally, the are listed at the CH website rebuild for just over $200. As to the wiring, hooking up a 220 isn't that hard, however, the main feed to your home (where your working) carries a bit of a punch. Nothing like a set of wings to seperate you from your Z. Ask around, you might find an electrican or local handy-man who can do the work for not much cash.

Thanks to St Steve for posting the message. It was I that was considering the purchase, as a supplement to the stripped down 71 in my garage. I also brought out a Z mechanic from the old 'Z Center' in Northern NJ, for those of you on the right coast. As Steve said, it's always best to have others with you to keep you grounded and justify your position when purchasing. I can't imagine how so many buy sight unseen from across the county and with serious money. For what its worth, the eBay seller was 'brokering' the deal. He takes a cut and the owner doesn't need to be involved. In this case, she was quite attached to the vehicle as it was her ride. She indicated she used to rally it back in the day, hence the CB. Some of the information posted by the broker could be honest error, however, he does work in the auto sales industry, so, he may know more than was let on. Beats us... couldn't figure where he got that reference. This confused me as well as both the broker and owner indicated the car did go to for service last year at which point the carbs were supposedly adjusted (they didn't run properly yesterday) and the fuel pump and several other bits (see first post) were adjusted. I can't imagine they would've drove it there and back and not noticed/repaired (especially with the other work done) the brakes. Originally, the broker listed the car through one of the NJ Z clubs and that was how I found out about it. For all purposes, the seller was fair enough to end the auction early (before it hit a reserve) based on my urge for him to do so as we had arranged to meet before it was listed. He should be relisting it if anyone wants to take a stab at it. In all, it helped me realize it is perhaps best for me to stick with my plan to strip and rebuild mine... at least I know what problems I have. Next, off to buy/build a rotiss.

A few big questions though... Besides the supermarket, where does one purchase oil by the gallons in bulk... How much does oil cost in bulk by the gallon... How often do the fast food joints change their oil (if trying to use used oil to save on cash)...

Welcome Mikey! I, like you, owned a Z in my youth and as a result of 'early' mid-life, decided to get back into the fold... As a result I now have a 5 year project plan in my garage that I may complete earlier. If you semi-handy, willing to learn and have a garage space, you might consider buying a 'restorable' project and doing the work. Since I got back in, I've looked at a few 'great' or 'original' conditiion vehicles and found, for what sellers wanted, I was better off staying with my project. I'll keep looking, but will keep wrenching as well. Let us know where you're at... seems like no ones ever from the NY/NJ metro area Northern NJ Larry

Left you a PM yesterday. Lets work out a price, in all liklihood, consider them sold. Larry

I've a set of the slotted mags (not much if any road rash, if I recall) that I plan to begin refinishing this winter. If sent out, how much would one expect to pay? I understand that after I refinish them, they'll need to be frequently polished as the 'clear coat' is removed. Do the professional refinishers reapply clear coat? Is it realistic for me to attempt to reapply on my own? BTW: Where's the best source for the 'original' center caps that were used with the Z slotted Shelby mags? Larry

I support the 'do it yourself' effort. My 71 isn't in bad rust shape in most places but the bottom side. Underneath, from the floor pans thoughout the suspension, she got hit by the rust stick. Mechanically, she needs much work and to clean up the rust and apply POR properly, means removing everything from the shell. Seems more logical to me to repair the frame/suspension before repairing/installing the engine. As for paint, I plan to send her for paint after fully rebuilt as a rolling frame, before engine is installed. That way, I can have shiny car in one side of the garage and an engine in the other. The shiny car will serve as motivation to finish mechanicals. Of course, much extra care will be required when reinstalling engine, else, scratchy paint would result (as previously said). My local vo-tech offers a course in autobody and I start in a few weeks. That should help me learn some basics (including welding) before I take on the task. Also, if I suck really bad, I'll save put the money I'd of spent on the welder toward a shop to do the welding for me. Northern NJ Larry

Larry here... live in Northern NJ, work in NYC. 33. 1 wife (one's enough)... 2 kids, 1 dog... 2nd Z

I've stripped most of the diamond vinyl form my interior and it is in preety good shape. The visible side will need some cleaning, but before I do that, what is the best way to remove the glue from the underside. Certainly I cannot store it this way, not can I do much to clean the other side else it will stick to itself. I suppose the same question applies to removing the remaining glue from the interior.

I don't recall K's and C's (or any other letters aside from Z) in the US market. Did they sell here as well, or just in other overseas markets?

Nice pics... but it may be me, but I would think that for an asking price of 12K, the dash would be in mint shape or fully restored... A dash cap seems out of place on an asking price that high... Thoughts? Northern NJ Larry

OK... While i'm not new to Z's, I am new to all the specifications.. my first Z was just my first car... I didn't study it nor did I have a shop manual. I hear many terms/acronyms tossed around (FAQ please) and now's as good a time as any for a few Qs... OK... what is the difference with the K and C (240K and 240C) that was referred to. I never knew the Z's came in different letters... Also, why does everyone refer to Z's as Zed's..... What is a Zed... Northern NJ Larry

OK.. the area between the rear strut towers, interior, in front of the spare tire... I'll try to post a pic within a day if I can't make myself clear... Thanks Northern NJ Larry

As most of my 1971 240Z is now gutted, and I had planned to strip entire car to metal for rust removal/paint, I've found the rear deck has some type of material (wood board?) attached to the metal. While it seems intact, and I could likely just paint over it, I'm curious what it is and for (sound proofing?). Thoughts? Northern NJ Larry

I'm having some difficulty removing the driver side rearmost interior plastic trim panel. Of course, since I'm stripping my 71, the plastic doesn't flex much without cracking. I've removed the hatch strut, however, the mount that is attached to the body blocks the panel from removing easily. Even if the mount is bolted to the body, the panel blocks access and prevents its removal. Any ideas? All other panels are out!! Northern NJ Larry