Wally

that image is awesome. THANKS! The circled triangle tip on left was at 0. i was able to turn slightly now its at about 7-8 degrees. is that right? Lobes still look like bunny ears and rotor still seems fine.

the distributor body was soundly bolted down. i can twist it a little and get it like the image above. Attached is new image with cap secured. for "timing mark" I assume i need to take out radiator, fan and pulleys off? do i need timing cover off too?

1. i have not confirmed its on compression stroke. Would i do so by putting all plugs back in except #1 and putting in rubber plug and seeing if it shoots out when i turn over engine? 2. i left the oil pump and distributor in when i manually turned the damper bolt

Here is image of ignition as is now. Appears to be in right vicinity at least

ok. finally got the plugs out and manually turned until bunny ears....at least as close as i could get. does this look right in images? if so what exactly is the next step? do i put plugs back in now?

will do as soon as i go buy a new breaker bar. When you say lobes "up" do you mean lobe 1 is straight up or lobes 1 & 2 are in the floppy bunny ears spot

lot of good information all. Appreciated. so here it what i am getting.... First, I need to remove the plugs, then put breaker bar on and turn a little until rotor is in #1 spot where it should be? After that address the lobes, compression port or TDC things?

I put rubber plug into #1 spark plug and had wife turn key. Holy crap heck....that thing shot out like a cannon. It missed me thankfully. So i guess that means #1 is TDC now? or compression stroke? not even sure if they are the same thing? After that i took off the valve cover. Lobe 1 appears straight down. Not sure what all this means or what to do from here but its an update on where i am. Also i took image of where rotor is now. My finger is area where #1 plug would be with cap on

so Madkaw said TDC COMPRESSION STROKE!!!!!! Pull #1 plug and shove a vacuum plug that just fits the hole in there. Turn over motor till that sucker shoots across the room- you found compression stroke . Now line everything up. Do you agree. remove just 1st plug... put in a vacuum plug and turn the key until it blows out? Then its on compression #1 stroke?

just checked. you are right. this tang isnt aligned like image here.

how can i rotate it by hand?

working way thru list stuff here. rotor is quite bit off...should be pointing where green top is. I did remove oil pump and distributor.... does this mean i put it back in wrong?

whew. thanks. here is what i was given...dont remember where atm...but i did mark it was for the carbs

forgot to add... In the area of photo for 2 carbs ....thats where i put that "special carb oil" right... I put it in there and am not worried i wasnt supposed to

Thanks everyone! I carried to car to a "mechanic" other day and they gave some "help" but weren’t able to get it running. He moved some wires around on the ignition side. I have a lot of images if needed on how he connected things. He seems to think its either timing or fuel but i am not too confident in their ability. 1. They showed me the spark plugs were getting good spark with some tester. 2. I am 99.9% sure the firing order is right. I did this and followed that image of 1-6 order. 3. Not sure what static timing is…so no idea on anything related to that 4. The float bowls. How do I check to see if its getting fuel? I did remove the air filter housing and spraying directly with starter fluid…it isn’t helping. 5. Car came with points replaced by Pertonix II, the ignition coil is in picture. It’s a MSD #8222. I tried the wire thing where I put one end of the positive battery and the other on positive end of coil. It didn't help. I included a short video of this with wife trying to crank the car. You can hear sound it makes. At end I tell her to stop b/c the battery needs recharging. I haven’t watched Steve's video yet but will ASAP. Im sure it will be helpful. IMG_2892.MOV

Thanks will try that out this weekend and report findings

need some advice. Apparently i have all the ignition stuff on and was trying to fire up the car. It turns over great it just wont ignite and crank. No idea what the issue is or even could be. Everything is rebuilt and new including new Ztherapy carbs, lines etc. Gas is being pushed from the mechanic fuel pump and all the plugs are sparking good. Could some wires not 100% right at the ignition or ballast cause this? What about bad timing? Any thoughts are welcome

Not sure if this is right place but... someone told me to siphon out the old gas and replace.... Isnt there a drain plug on the OEM tanks? Is there a reason i should siphon instead of draining? We are talking about couple gallons at most

not sure. i did see the $59ish dollar ones. It says on listing they will "fit" so i will likely buy a set of them. The oem's are $320 which is ridiculous

SteveJ....can i fly you out to my house for a couple days? 😀

ok should be up now. I tried to post image of car and it was too big...i think that is what stopped it.

can i tag onto this thread... was bleeding all my front and back and read right looks bad. You can see in image about where fluid is coming out. i assume just replace the wheel cylinder. Is it that difficult to do?

OK. think i got the signature thing done. Also here is a cleaner images. Other side of connector towards firewall is black, red/black, blue. On connector side that has wire ends is black, green, red(no stripe) Maybe i should re-wire connector using same colors? Wow....i was way off. Ot really sure where this will go now. Maybe its on the steering column if its something to do with high power beams thanks!

I have a group of 3 wires near the fusebox that are just loose? Trying to look at various electrical diagrams best i can tell they are horn relay? anyone know for sure

Yep, Not too far from Houston. about 95 miles out. Dont think i need anything but If i can help let me know. i get to houston every once in a while.