adivin

Does anyone know if the Subaru R180 diff cover is the same as the Nissan R180 cover?

How much of the rubber should be visible from the outside? Anyone have any more pics with all the trim on?

Yes, that's the piece. Thanks!

Does anyone have a picture of where this little piece of rubber goes?

Well, this was a win! Thanks for posting this Tweeds. Cutting the 45s and getting them to match up nice is the hardest part.

It seems like a very loose fit. Did you just press it on, or did you have to crimp it or anything?

Did you have to use adhesive? Tweeds, what say you?

I got the McMaster stuff in and it looks promising. It's definitely more compliant. However, it doesn't seem that it's going to stay on the door flange without some type of sealant.

I'm going to give the McMaster Carr stuff a try. I have tried Precision and Vintage Rubber with no luck.

Wait, looking at your picture and the drawing, the notch is on the right as you face the sender. What am I missing?

Jeff, I am having the same issue you had back in this thread. What was the correction orientation of the sender. My tabs on the tank are bent so it’s not keyed as someone mentioned.

All wiring is stock. The problem now seems intermittent. Sometimes the right dash arrow will light, and sometimes it doesn't. I have only been able to test the rear lights since I have no front fenders on the car at the moment. So you're saying there is no way it could be related to the switch on the steering column? What are you referring to as the gauge body? The left side light seems to work consistently as does the hazards.

Ok, another turn signal oddity. My hazards work and both arrows blink and light up in the dash. My turn signals both work but the right side does not light up in the dash. Any ideas?

I did not use the mounting bolts to draw the trans in. I said it was very difficult to mount the tranny to the engine. I had to do it with both engine and tranny out of the car.

I think this is where I went wrong. I didn't pay special attention to this area, and I don't remember if I used sealant there or not. Thanks for the good info. I will try your technique too.

Did you try putting in a taller collar?

Yes, it is engine oil. I normally do not use sealant if I'm using a gasket.

I reinstalled my front engine cover while the engine was out of the car. I used the gaskets that came in an L24 gasket set. Now that the engine is in the car, of course I have a leaks at the top of the cover where it meets the head. I don't know what I did wrong, so I don't know what to do different this time around. Any tips, tricks, or insights would be appreciated. Are gaskets preferred to RTV? Man, I hate doing things twice!

I installed a new OEM 11/16 slave, not much difference from the previous slave that was also 11/16. I mad a few more turns at the MC and I can drive the car, but the pedal engages too close to the floor for my liking.

Apparently being able to roll the car in gear with the engine off, doesn't mean you can actually put it in gear with the engine running. I'm still not at the end of the rainbow. Question, will my clutch fork (240Z) work with all the aforementioned taller collars?

Yes, it works. The clutch disengages. I can roll the car in gear with clutch in.

IMG_1734.MOV Ok, I might have it! With Zed talking about proper hydraulic pressure and Patcon mentioning the master cylinder adjustment, I gave it a shot and adjusted the master cylinder by 6 turns. I put the slave back on and turned the adjustment nut hand tight and tried to leave just slight bit of clearance. I was trying not to get hung up on 2mm plus it's hard to measure. How does this look?

I took a look. This is where I'm at.

Just measured the travel again with it off the tranny. From fully depressed to full extension is only 12-13mm.

Also the slave cylinder that EuroDat referenced is the non-adjustable type. The throw on the adjustable type may not be as long.