26th-Z

I used my 1969 Z as a daily driver between 1986 and 1990 and then between 1993 and 2000. I know the car was a daily driver from birth to 1980. Testimony to Datsun - this car ran reliably all the time. It was serviced plenty, and went through its share of repairs, but generally speaking it was always kept up and maintained like any normal car should. I can't think of any one thing that broke before a long service life. Probably rust maintenance is the worst problem requiring the longest repairs. After I restore it within the next three years, I will use her for pleasure only.

From Internet Z Car Club technical topics - color codes for North American Cars: 1970/71 Exterior Color Interior Color: Silver 901 Black Dk. Blue 903 Black / Lt. Blue White 904 Black / Blue Red 905 Black Dk. Green 907 Tan Orange 918 Black Yellow 919 Black Gold 920 Black (#920 aka - Mustard) 1972 Exterior Color Interior Color: Silver 901 Red White 904 Red Orange 918 Black / White Red 110 White / Black Yellow 112 Black (#112 aka: Lime ) Green Metallic 113 Tan Brown Metallic 114 Tan (#114 aka: CoCo Brown) Blue Metallic 115 White 1973 Exterior Color Interior Color: Note 1 USA: Canada Silver 901 Black Black White 904 Red N/A in Canada Orange 918 Black Black Red 110 Black Beige Yellow 112 Black Black (#112 aka: Lime ) Green Metallic 113 Brown Brown Brown Metallic 114 Brown Brown (#114 aka:CoCo Brown) Blue Metallic 115 Beige Beige

No fuel cell - restoration. I did this once before in 92 and I'll be doing at again this summer. Still working on finding a home to take it apart. I think July will be productive.

I learned a quite a bit from this discussion - my tank and vent system will be coming out this summer. It will be interesting to see what I have in 26.

Carl Beck wrote me this morning with this comment: That is correct. Emissions Standards are implemented by the US on an "as of" date. They then apply to any car produced "as of" that date. The evaporative emission controls were not required by the US until 1 Jan. 1970. None the less Nissan intended to sell the 240-Z's as 1970 Model Year vehicles here in the US. So they started equipping cars ahead of 1 Jan. 1970 - but they had limited supply to begin with and only part of the cars coming to the US, built in 1969 were equipped with the vapor recovery tanks ( none of the 69 production cars that went to Canada had them and most didn't even have air pumps)

Yea, me too, Bambikiller. I doubt it has been hacked. In 1968, the Feds passed the "Evaporative Emmissions Control Act" and all cars had to have a recovery system according my Datsunmeister. Our cars should have had something. I plan to see Carl on 20 June and will consult with his meistership on the subject. I will also see Jim Frederick and will be able to ask his meistership. I will capture a photo opp if I get the chance.

Further, Compare the part numbers of the gas tank to the corresponding vent tank numbers. The E4100 gas tank is listed up to 7/73 as is the second listing E4600 with evapo. The original vent tank, 17350-E4600 lists only to 8/71 and then E4601 continues to 7/73. E4600 doesn't list with Nissan but E4601 does; $127.29 if it is still available.

Thanks for the part # references. From the sound of it, I'll be looking for a vent tank. Scotty-the-Datsunmeister concurs that early tanks were plastic and that they broke. I won't get my gas tank out for another month, but I'll check my vent situation and let you know. I have only one vent hose through the rear floor just behind the tail light - where that boot goes. Glad to see you dealt with the straps.

Looks like I may be a clown on the vapor recirculating tank issue, Mark. May have been one of those plastic tank explanations. My research isn't looking good. I use PB Blaster, but any penetrating oil will work better than WD-40. I want to try the Sili-Kroil. Soaking has always brought me luck on the tough ones. Soak it for days - keep it wet! Gas tank straps and J-bolts are hard to come buy because they all rusted. I finally got my Parker 821 braided hose and it looks great.

I made a CAD drawing of a Z (2d plan view) for you CAD drafters out there. It was drawn in a late version of the popular Auto Cad - .dwg format and I'll e-mail it to you. I know I can save it back to v14 and I might be able to save it back to v12. Let me know what you require. I design custom homes and I frequently design custom garages. I like to fill the garages with cars on my presentation drawings. This drawing is to scale, ready to drop in your plans. I was going to post it on E-bay as one-of-a-kind, RARE, hand constructed import from Electronapan with a low starting reserve of $240 but I didn't think anyone would get the sarcasm. The attached is a jpg export. Try it and let me know what you think!

My parts fiche shows the fuel recovery system and is no help at all. If memory serves me, the gas tank vent hoses come up through the floor and then turn toward the filler inside the car. Your picture shows the T valve (Nissan part 17227-E4100) and the hoses, but not where they pass through the floor. There is a rubber grommet for the opening and the boot fits over the opening, sealing the hose on the inside of the car. I'm going to have to look at mine and take a picture. The hose just doesn't simply pass inside the car through a grommet. It is sealed with the boot.

Mark, I found gas tank vent hose boots - both large and small - at Banzai Motorworks in MD. It would be good to replace yours with their Part #'s GF-17 and 18 for about $15. I can't emphasize the need to seal the vent system. Check the T fitting and I would use a hose prep / sealer when I put it back together. I did this procedure in 92 and will do it again with the current project. Installation is a real pain. If you get gasoline fumes in the car after filling the tank, you have a vent leak. Banzai is at www.zzxdatsun.com 301-420-4200 I have a big list for them. You demonstrate to me the need to get a digital camera. I'm photographing the old way. I have the parts to send my carbs off to Z Therapy in July. Radiator is restored. Collected most of the parts for the engine bay and I'm focusing on collecting brake parts at the moment. I found a better shop to work on the car and made a major score on industrial shelving - a bunch of it. Work proceeds slowly. I pulled the drive and half shafts Saturday.

No Mark, You have just discovered one of the fine intricacies of the early series one model. No venting system! The tube just comes down the wheel well as you describe. Do make sure all your hoses and fittings are secure and sealed when you reassemble or you will get gas fumes in the back of the car. Good luck. I found this job a real pain in the arse.

I think the plate looks real good between those snazzy driving lights! Would like to talk to you about your literature collection.

Oops, got it backwards. Switches - #9 is early 70 and #10 probably 71 on. I'm going to write a book about the parts differences.

I copied off these two shots from the archived forums. One is about the interior switches, and the second is a front shot of a license plate I would like to have.

As long as you are on-line, let me ask how you came up with the numbers so fast. Do they appear in a fiche you have and if so, what section?

Many, many thanks. Its people like you who make this club rock. I begin my quest in the morning.

Mike, I did something this afternoon I rarely do and beg your forgiveness - I checked the wiring diagram! The 1971 Nissan Chassis Workshop Manual shows the fog light wires. Sure enough, the wiring diagram from the site's downloads shows the red wire. I was confused some time ago when I bought a used console on E-bay and got two switches with it - rear hatch defroster and "parking lights". My 70 console just has blanks in the spot. I think the 71 diagram shows the connection there. Going back through your forum achives revealed just what I was looking for, confirming the switch type I have in my dash 25370-E4100 and the later switch on the console 25370-E8700 I bought. Great photo of the lamps in "Switch Coversation". Can anyone tell me the part number of the lamps? You should find some extra red wires in the harness up near the horns.

That's what I thought. I pm'd you about the engine bay light.

Mike, I have the same situation including a switch that looks like the hazard switch in the second indent. It is connected to the spares?-perhaps. I remember my car with driving lights years before I bought it, but they are gone now. I was asking in the dash restoration forum, but the subject was getting away from the forum. Lights were an option from the options catalog not published in the US at the time my car was purchased (I believe). I am interested in putting the lights on my car, and I have been asking around for them. I would also be interesting in an options catalog from 1970. What I want to know is how the lights mounted.

I liked the rear bumper on the white Fairlady. No uprights - just the corner rubber. Can something like that be done to the front "Euro" bumper?

$300 for a 10' X 15' concrete slab is about the going rate installed ($1.50 / sq. ft.). Pavers cost about $1.20 / sq. ft. for material only. For working on a car, the slab should be at least level, smooth. An epoxy based sealer finish is really great for keeping it clean. Try one of those floor products advertised on the motorhead channel. 4" of concrete will hold the load pressures from jack stands easily. Pavers will not give you this performance and in the worst case, could be dangerous if one crushes under the pressure of a jack stand. Consider how long you will be renting and amortize the $300 over that period to get a monthly cost. Consider a mortgage on a 2500 sq. ft. home - 3000 sq. ft. including a two car garage. A monthly mortgage payment of $750 equates to $125 a month for the garage. There are some numbers to chew on.

As a buyer, I have had some fun on E-bay with experience mostly good, but I'm moving on to dealing with the network of people I met and places I found. I generally see the "new" stuff bid way out of sight and with a little detective work, I have found places to buy the same stuff at or below the opening price. I have never been ripped off or had a deal go south. I think E-bayers keep it pretty honest. E-bay has its place. In a few months, it got me well connected and my restoration project off the ground. I continue to browse and bottom fish, but I go to other places for specific stuff.