26th-Z

Those are the glass felts to fit inside the window frames on the doors. They are a pretty common automotive trim item. I think MidwestZ has OEM Datsun ones.

Mark, I found this company that provides seam sealers and coatings for your metal work. They have similar stuff to POR and vinyl dye as well. http://www.semproducts.com/

Looks like you're doing a nice job, Mark.

Three listings on Ebay selling ZG fender flares, rear duck tail, and headlight covers. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2422549988&category=36475

There are some ZG headlight covers on Ebay right now - buy it now $125. See my post from the headlight cover opinion thread. Same seller has these ZG flares and duck tail. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2422549988&category=36475

Heads up to anyone lucky out there. ZG covers on E-bay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2422549569&category=36475

Too bad no one makes up the battery tray. I'll bet they could sell a bunch of them. I was confused about your mention of screw attachment and comment that screw and rivet repair of the sheet metal is not a good idea. It's a chassis rigidity thing. The floor pans are integral to the "frame" of the car. This is unibody engineering stuff. For the pieces not available from Zedd or VB or MSA, a donor car is the way to go.

My 2 cents: Sounds exactly like a worn out engine. The low cylinder may indicate a broken ring and may cause further damage to the cylinder wall. Usually, an engine rebuild would require new rings and honing of the cylinder wall, but if it is scored from the broken ring, you may need to bore the cylinders to a larger size and replace the pistons. Of course, a valve job is always recommended simply because you have the head off. Make sure to replace the valve stems and seats with steel for unleaded gas. Early Z engines are relatively inexpensive and easy to rebuild. You may have an E31 head casting and that makes your engine most desireable as it potentially develops a higher horsepower rating than later types (stock). If it is blowing out enough oil to gunk up your filter, it is time to do something about it. Good luck and let me know what you do with the engine should you decide to replace it.

Thanks, Carl. Best advice I've had all day.

After a little research, I find that these cam towers will fit and I can't find new ones. I'm told the cam towers fit the head and that new ones must be line bored for proper alignment of the cam. I'm concerned about proper clearance between the cam and bearing surface. Any advice?

Will these towers fit on a E31 head? Can anyone give me a little advice on the technical info about these? Is this a good deal? And where can I find new ones? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2420029459&category=33614

That's zactly what I have, TEXASZ. Series one cars had the dual lock setup and your door / hatch key relates to the original (part number) lock. The part numbers change with no application date to the later dual lock setup, but with a double sided key. This occurs with the door locks as well as the hatch locks. And great news! With only two hours remaining in the competition, the Ebay key blanks are up to $82. Way to go! If you ever want to sell those locks and key, TEXASZ.....

Thanks for the rotisserie plans KMACK. I'm going to strip some of the undercoating before I haul it off to the dippers.

My 11/69 car has keys like the ones being sold. The small painted one fits the doors and hatch. The other is ignition although my original ignition broke many years ago and the replacement ignition has a double sided key.

Glove boxes for the series one dash came in two varieties and list up to July 73 as part number 68600-E4600 and 68600-E4102. The difference seems to be one is folded cardboard and one is molded plastic. The locks and striker plates changed during that period three times with no referenced application dates. They should all interchange. All the rest of the glove bax parts listed in the Micro-Fiche appear only once for that period.

Try zzxdatsun dot com. Banzai Motorworks or Classic Datsun Motorsports ( I couldn't get the link to work?) Vinyl is going to be expensive.

I just found a place to dip my car Saturday! Revivations in Wauchula, Florida dips cars in a three part process. Revivations is sister to Pioneer Restorations and the preliminary estimate was $1200 to dip the entire body including doors fenders, deck and hood. The first dip is acidic stripper and it softens the paint and undercoating. Then the car is pressure washed to remove all the crap the dip softened. The third process is full submersion in an alkaline electrolytic solution that neutralizes any acid left on the car and DC current is run through to separate ferrous ions (rust) from the metal. They claim no actual metal is removed during the process and it won't harm plastic, lead, or chrome. The process gets all the rust off and you start over from bare naked metal. They dip everything from suspension parts to gas tanks. If you are worried about the metal rusting right away, they offer an OSPHO dip and then encourage you to step right next door to Pioneer's full restoration facilities. I would appreciate any feedback from someone who has delt with them.

$582 no matter where you live in good old US of A. $150 because I live in Florida Total $732 = new dash. Expensive, isn't it? I have seen series one dashes go for over a grand lately.

The quote I got on May 14th was $582 US from the Washington State "consolidation point". I remember round trip shipping from Florida to Washington was $150 for my dash.

Good show Alan! I'll do pics to this forum when mine gets back.

I saw Jackie at Sebring once, but never met him. Let alone a ride! I'm one of those who stands in line to get autographs at the ALMS races now. I don't know whatever happened to Cline or May. Cline crashed his DP Triumph and damned near killed himself years ago, and I remember sealing the Ferrari in a building in 80 or 81. I went to the F1 races in Spa and Hochenheim a few years ago. Most everyone (excluding myself) grew up and I don't see them any more. I will be restoring the Z - her lovliness, miss 26 - and plan to post my efforts in the coming months. She is lovely now, but you know how old broads need a lift in their old age! I want her drop-dead gorgeous again.

This is Great! I'm Christopher, 49 year old Architect in Sarasota, Florida. I am single with a 15 year old daughter. I bought my Z from the estate of the original owner in1984. I grew up in Sarasota, the car is from Sarasota, and it is probably the first Z I remember seeing. It belonged to a friend's father. In my younger days, I raced an MG in SCCA FP, an Alexis FF, and a Porsche 911 in DP. The Porsche went on to GTU IMSA during the heydays of John Paul, Don Wittington and I got to drive one stint at the Daytona 24 before Freddy crashed the car at 5 in the morning. Bobby Rahal used to hang out with his FB at Florida Region SCCA beer parties. I remember Janet Guthrie and Lynn St. James from those parties. I worked on Triumphs and Jaguars for Rick Cline in Gainesville during my college years and watched Rick and Jack May drive off in Jack's Ferrari on their way to the Redball Garage in 1975? I have crewed for several different race teams. Florida is full of race teams with Sebring and Daytona here. I am partial to Chevrons and Lolas, but I wouldn't turn a Lotus down. I took up sailboat racing in 1980 and raced Hobies for a while, but sold all my boats a few years ago and started traveling in Europe. I have been hiking in the Alps. During all this, I got married, got divorced, started my own business seven years ago. I drive a BMW 330Ci. This is a great forum. I have enjoyed reading about all of you.

Try the rear brake adjustment just to make sure. Never hurts to check and adjust anyhow.

Lets see pictures of the A pillar and pass. side! That really looks like a nice ride - $1200

Looking at your pictures, the body condition is good and in need of a thorough paint job. The better your prep work, the better and longer lasting your results. Take care of the rust now and you will have many more years of Datsun famous cheap transportation. Consider a low monthly transportation cost excluding gas, oil, and insurance of $250. That's what a Neon, Saturn, Taurus cost in 1999. That is $3000 per year of driving. Right now you are getting off pretty cheap, but you can see what might be reasonable expenses for repairs. In other words, $4000 now for driving the next five years is still way cheap. $15,000 now equates to what it would cost to drive a cheap (new) car in 1999. I put a MSA dash half cover on my Z ten years ago and it still looks good. I recall it took me three or four hours to get it to fit just right and look as good as it does. There was a forum a month or so ago about sending our dashes to Australia for a $600+ restoration and I'm doing it, but I will vouch for my dash cap.