Curtis240Z

Good luck Rick. I will be there co-driving my friend's Mazda RX-3 in EP (not quite ready to fly my Z back to the mainland again, not to mention VERY expensive $$$$). I will try and look you up when I'm there.

Mine is done.

The oil pressure sender holds out the fuel pump until there is sufficient pressure, indicating the engine is running. You can try bypassing the sender which should let the fuel pump relay stay energized.

Good, the last click before START is the ON position, which is when you want the coil working and of course during the START position too.

I assume you were cranking the engine for some time, did the spark plugs smell of gas? Were they wet with gas? The most likely problem after 10 years would be clogged injectors.

As far as inexpensive struts go, I'd choose the KYBs over the Monroes any day. Changing McPherson struts is a lot more work than standard shocks so in my opinion it is worth the expense to put in a really good struts so you don't have to do it again. I prefer Koni or Tokico. Sounds like your Zs have different problems/issues.

It is hard to tell from the picture, but is looks like a blue and maybe a blue or green wire on one side of the coil. There is a red wire and another wire on the other terminal. Definitely not stock wiring.

Sound like something is wired wrong. You shouldn't have power to the ignition coil when the key is in the ACC position. From a 1978 280Z wiring diagram: The black w/white stripe powers the ignition relay. Blue w/white stripe goes to the ballast resistor. Blue wire goes from the ballast resistor to the ignition coil. Was it running previously? Since you have an aftermarket coil and distributor I hope the installer wired it correctly.

Urethane bump stops for sure. Springs if you want to lower your Z.

I have thought about changing gauges too, but since we have dual gauges in each housing finding an aftermarket equivelent is difficult.

Looks like an old Alison ignition system, mine died many years ago, ran good while it lasted.

The electrical system on a 240Z is very simple so if it isn't a connection problem, it has to be one or more of a few electrical items. Ignition coils can exhibit failure when they get hot then work again as they cool off.

#1 - There are two rubber boots needed for the manual transmission. The round accordian boot goes around the chrome shifter and covers the opening in the top of the transmission to keep dust out. The second boot is for the tunnel (which is the one you are asking about). Yes use a body saw and cut the tunnel going forward using the rubber boot lip as your template. Use sheetmetal screws to hold down the metal ring that goes over the boot. #2 - The second set of points in the automatic style distributor is the retard timing set. You can identify the retard wire because it has an extra large spade connector on it. Leave this retard wire disconnected. #3 - Cracked at the bottom of the seal, I'd ask for another tail section because you will always have to watch when your repair wears out and the consequenses are serious.

Well my buddies Z when the condensers began to fail, would let the car run for awhile then when the car is fully warmed up (and on a trip of course) it would fail. So he got good at changing them at the roadside....

Here is my dream garage I built back in 2003. It definitely shrunk over the years....

Try replacing your condenser. My friend's 240Z setup with the Mallory always ate condensers.

The most valueable tool for tuning is to use a wideband oxygen gauge. AEM makes a nice one. I bought mine from Summit Racing and mounted in the stock clock housing. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AVM%2D30%2D4100&N=700+4294925228+4294925227+400407+4294765928+4294906153+4294906151+308464+115&autoview=sku

Stock 240Z distributor (recurved) with Crane HI-6 ignition and optical trigger.

Try 130 main jets. What is your Pump jet size?

mgmoreau you have a later style slave cylinder in hand typically used on the 280Zs.

You might want to broaden your search for a '71-73 240Z, as they all can be easily modified for optimum performance. Good luck.

Depending on the year of your Z there are usually about 4 vent lines coming out of the tank to the vapor expansion tank. Also there are some expansion tanks that are plastic which could be cracked too. The vapor being pushed out of the gas tank when it is getting displaced with gas during fill up is what you are experiencing. The vapor should be going to the expansion tank and routed into the intake of the engine.

So does everyone else want the original blanks......good luck! Let us know if you find any. Nissan is the original company name. Datsun was used for the American market mainly because it sounds less "Japanese". There are more detailed explanation on this subject, try the search function if you want more.