Ownallday

Yeah I saw that. He wasn't using the performance balancer that I have though. So the bolt and washer kit I have is the one by Kameari I believe that they sell on MSA site. Here is a picture I just took. By the looks of it, the washer is facing the right direction.

Thanks for the response. I will update later tonight the orientation of the washer. I don't believe it's install "the wrong way" though but I will update later. Thanks, I tried to find them but didn't understand how to search like you stated. I will update later tonight on the washer situation I am using the MSA recommend bolt and washer kit so the washer that they recommend for the performance harmonic balancer that they sell

Thanks for the input. I will check it tomorrow or Thursday if I get the chance. So should I just retorque the bolt? MSA has a recommendation to using a special bolt and washer from them for the balancer I have. I don't have air condition installed atm but I do have an AC kit I want to install eventually. Did you have the same combination I currently have? Performance Harmonic balancer from MSA and their special bolt and washer kit? If so what's the best solution? At this point I am pulling my hair out. Is it possible to just switch back to the stock bolt and washer? I don't want to buy another balancer unless there are any with an AC pulley attachment.

Update: Replaced water pump, no more leaking, also went ahead and installed the old oil pump back onto the car to test and noise was still present after installing the old pump so the oil pump is out of the question now and so is the water pump. So I went ahead and lifted the car, can't get the noise to come when the car is in the air, so more than likely the car needs to be under some kinda load or the front wheels possibly? I installed big brake kit in the front and new wheel bearings about 5 months ago, didn't have any issues so doubt that's the problem. I will most likely throw a gopro into the engine bay my next drive see if that helps at all. Yeah, I double checked today and the position with the spindle is 100% aligned with my oil pump. Yes so if thats the case my timing is currently at about 15 degrees. Which in no way should cause pinging, I run 91 octane, even tried octane booster to make sure.

Can someone tell me what would be considered the correct timing mark on the MSA performance balancer? There are 5 white markings, the bottom marking is the thickest so I am assuming that's what I go based on?. Today I removed my dizzy and oil pump and lined up the spindle with motor at tdc The top of the spindle aligned more with the bolt holes but it was close enough so maybe more like 11:20 for me. Also installed new spark plugs since mine were clogged up. Also cleaned up all the contacts on my cap and rotor and wires. After adjusting timing, car idles perfectly at 800 rpm now. timing was maybe 18 degrees advanced or so. Drove car home and noise is still present. At this point I don't think its a timing issue or the car is pinging/detonation. The noise is still present when accelerating while driving. It only makes the noise when I'm like 40% throttle or more. Tomorrow I am going to install the new waterpump too (since mine is leaking) and will most likely install the old oil pump to see if the new one is the problem. I also have a new exhaust manifold gasket but I'm pretty positive my current one is fine. I am using it correctly. It's one of the ones where you have to adjust the timing gun based on how off the marking is then it gives you the correct timing, if that makes sense...

Thanks I will update Tuesday night after I do all that work. I should have the water pump replaced at the same time. I looked at my harmonic balancer, the only thing is im running this one from MSA. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2139 It's only about a year old and to my knowledge is a solid piece. My previous balancer split the same way yours did. The only thing like I said is I can't hear the noise when the car is just sitting, I have to be driving in order to hear the noise

I have not, aside from the water pump and some new spark plugs that I ordered, I planed on doing this tomorrow or tuesday next week but I was also going to remove the oil pump and reinstall everything with the engine at tdc. I am more than positive the timing went off after the oil pump install after seeing how off timing was before adjustment.

Okay, back with an update. Replaced alternator, sound still present. But my alternator was actually bad, the bearing was actually making noise and I noticed my lights stopped dimming at lower rpms. Performed a valve adjustment, car ran even faster and smoother after I did this. However the sound is still present. Finally got my hands on a timing gun today, also took a quick stop at autozone to pickup lucas octane booster (Incase I am hearing ping). Poured in the octane booster, ran the engine for about 10 mins to warm it up and setup the timing gun. Without adjusting anything the car was extremely advanced (I can't see my timing indicator because it's all covered up with gunk) but going to assume based on pictures it was possibly in the 30 degrees range which is way past the timing indicator. I immediately went to retard the distributor as much as possible and maxed it out and checked timing again and once again based on pictures of the timing mark indicator its right around 15 to 18 degrees which is the lowest I can get it. Went to drive the car and the damn noise is still there! The car definitely feels like it lost power too. I noticed my water pump was leaking while doing timing, not sure when it started leaking but ordered a replacement, any chance that's what is making the noise? Any thoughts would be great. The engine is an L28 N42 with a rebuilt stock E88 head from a 260z. Triple webers. I'll post a picture of the spark plugs incase that helps. Car does run really rich, has been running rich for the past year. I'll leave behind some pics of the spark plugs as well as pics down the timing cover I took with an endoscope.

Thanks for the input will keep that in mind. Right now I believe its my alternator. Seeing the bolts on the bottom just a couple threads from falling out convinces me the alternator had too much play and caused the bearings to fail. Also the nice thing about spatial audio is I can hear the noise is more towards the alternator side with headphones on. I posted a second video but not sure what happened there.

So, I thought I would update. Might've cracked the noise issue down to my alternator. I went ahead and removed the valve cover and spark plugs so I can rotate the engine by hand. I heard a noise similar sounding when driving (just slower) coming from the alternator area as shown in these videos. Unless its the oil pump itself which sits right below it, I thought I could just be hearing that or the gear behind the timing cover, until I remembered. The belt I had prior to the new one was less than 12 months old and already started tearing. When I removed the old belt I only loosened the top tension bolt and the alternator moved freely, then it hit my head that that should not happen. Went ahead and looked at the two bottom bolts under the alternator and what do you know, they somehow managed to get loose overtime! This leads me to believe the alternator bearing is shot. I will be ordering another one from autozone as I still have warranty. 20211101_172411.mp4 20211101_172126.mp4

Thought I'd come and update. I replaced the belt (I noticed it was starting to tear a little) didn't fix the sound. I went ahead and finally got my starter delivered, installed it and sadly that was not the issue. My car does start a lot better and faster now though and it no longer hits my flywheel so that's a plus This Tuesday I will be performing a valve adjustment, taking off the oil pump and swapping with the old one, and getting the motor back at tdc when I reinstall everything and check timing again once that's all done. I will update then.

Yeah that was the only moment you can really hear it in the video. Sadly my dash decided to rattle on that drive. But yeah it's that rotational noise. I can only replicate that noise while driving and in gear. Timing I will get to most likely next week on Tuesday. I'm gonna throw motor back to tdc and perform a valve lash when I do all that. I'll update then.

Thought I'd share a video of the noise, I have a starter on the way but thought it be nice to get everyone's opinion on the noise. Skip to 50 second mark in the video. Recommend wearing headphones maybe

I'm sure the auto zone one wouldn't hurt. No harm as I know my starter should've been replaced when I rebuilt the motor. I believe its the only bolt on that hasn't been replaced yet on my car.

Yeah, didn't include that. I only tried messing with it to see if I can get the idle down which didn't work. Did not have the opportunity to remove the dizzy today sadly. I was able to look at the spark plugs though and confirm the car is running insanely rich for the most part. As for the sound issue I stated I think it might actually be my starter. I went to start the car today and the car made a really loud knock, I legit thought my motor somehow blew up and it made the sound again but less aggressive the second time trying to start it. It started the third time I cranked the car without making any noise. I think the mechanism that moves the starter back away from the flywheel might potentially be getting stuck or something. I am going to replace the starter anyhow since it's one of the few parts on the car I have yet to actually replace or restore. I will update whenever I have time to check timing again or replace starter whichever comes first.

Okay, I'll most likely just back track my work Tuesday. I tried adjusting timing yesterday but there was no change to my idle which was strange. I can't hear it in neutral, however it does get faster as the engine revs higher while driving. I only hear it while pressing the gas pedal too. That'll be the plan, I'll have to drive it one last time back to my job since I can lift the car easier there. I timed it a long time ago, actually a friend of mine timed it when he was getting a baseline tune for my triple webers. I had messed with it yesterday to see if changing it would decrease or increase idle and nothing changed I won't be driving the car, only going to drive it one last time on Tues to bring it to work to work on it. It has to be related to the oil pump or spindle is my guess or the timing. Basically gonna start from scratch most likely. I'll post whatever I find.

Okay I'll will tackle this on Tuesday if the problem isn't solved by then. Before prior I didn't hold the spindle from the top. One thing I should mention is I actually forgot to grease or lube the spindle and gear but not sure if that is necessary, I didn't do it when I rebuilt the engine. It doesn't sound like that. I can only hear it in the cabin while driving the car. To me it sounds more like potentially a tapping or clicking noise then a squealing noise or chirp noise. Belt is new wasn't making the sound prior to the oil pump Install and oil change. Which bearings specifically? I didn't grease or lube the oil pump spindle, not sure if that could be the cause?

Okay, I am going to call MSA before I do anything and ask them if that sound is normal and will check my spark plugs to see if I can see signs of possible ping. If the sound isn't normal and I see no signs of lean condition then I will reinstall my old one and see what changes Yes, I will do the above first and go from there. Tuesday would be the day I can throw the old one back on so I will update then

I was trying to avoid doing this because I don't see how replacing an oil pump can cause timing to go off. I haven't taken that off yet. My car ran really rich before replacing the oil pump so later today I'll check my spark plugs and see if they indicate if I'm running lean now or still running rich. I was gonna readjust valves next week but doubt that's the issue. If anything I'll probably throw car into tdc on Tuesday when I have time and check everything Yeah I know, but the only way timing would be set off is if I somehow moved the spindle and caused the distributor to turn too with it, but to my knowledge, isn't it really hard to rotate the spindle from the bottom to cause the distributor to rotate too? I've timed both before when I rebuilt my motor

Is that normal? To my ears an oil pump should not make noise like that at all even if it's a performance pump, it's really loud, can hear it even over my loud exhaust from inside the cabin. I forgot to mention I added something called "Engine Restore" which is suppose to help increase compression so maybe that's stuff worked and the use of thicker oil helped too lol. Or maybe my car is happier that its finally getting oil pressure? Is it possible for me to set off timing installing a new oil pump? I didn't mess with the dizzy, I just took off the oil pump and spindle that came out and installed the new one best I could with the spindle. Not sure what that meant either, I was just told to get this one or a turbo oil pump to fix my low oil pressure issue which so far its done that perfectly.

I definitely don't want the fast crickets. I can't afford another motor lol.

I just went to go adjust timing by ear and there wasn't a difference to my ears no matter how much I would retard or advance. the sound im hearing from the engine sounds like fast crickets, that's the best way I can explain the sound. I can also confirm the car feels a lot faster than before.

I only touched the oil pump and did an oil change lol. I was going to check timing tomorrow as I didn't have time today, i figured I might've somehow advanced the timing when I installed the oil pump and possibly I might be hearing ping? I run 91 octane in the car already.

I just installed a new Kameari High Performance Oil Pump to my 280z. I have an L28 with triple weber carbs. I installed it because I had no oil pressure at idle. I also threw in Rotella T6 5w-40 oil into the car as a ton of people recommended to use Rotella to me. Before I would use penzoil 10w-30 but the car would burn about a qt every 2k miles or so. Needless to say after doing this, the car idles amazing now and is insanely smooth now through the rpm range. Before my car drove like the webers needed a tune. It feels like my car might've just gained some power. Before the new oil pump my car would idle around 800 rpm, but after installing the oil pump the car now idles at 1200 (can't adjust weber idle screws to lower it too as its already the lowest it can go). Also I noticed some kind of sound coming from the engine that I can only hear above 3k rpm and only when I accelerate. I don't hear the sound when coasting. The sound kinda sounds like maybe a tapping noise or maybe a rotating noise, its hard to explain. Any ideas?

Yeah, I just came across that and said no way in hell am I paying that much for a dampener. I don't have the stock one so no way I can rebuild that, I'll shoot an email to him see what he can do, thank you If you have one in good condition you are willing to sell I am all for it.