Av8ferg

Today, I had to reset my timing after removing the distributor yesterday to test of my ignition unit. While at it I tested my engine intake vacuum which was perfect so no leaks. Wanted to confirm that before putting in my rebuild brake booster. I also replaced my oil pressure sending unit after driving it last week. Pressure seemed low sometimes. I replaced it because I thought maybe it was defective (was a new unit). The replacement is made by Beck Arnley. I still feel pressure is lower that I think is right but maybe I’m wrong. I have a new oil pump (not turbo version) which I probably should have used. BTW, I opened the oil cap for a peek at idle and I can clearly see oil coming out the cam lobe . Here’s what if read at different RPM First pic is a idle (800 RPM) Second at 1500 RPM Third at 2500 RPM Is this pretty normal?

Well, I didn’t Know I had a 1 ohm coil until I stated digging in my parts bin. 1 ohm coils didn’t seem very common in the marketplace as 1.5 ohm. So on MSAs website they recommend a 1.5 ohm coil. Also the Tachometer seems more stable on the 1.5 ohm coils . Smoother and less erratic…from my experience. Now I just need to make sure I don’t get problems at high rpm with this higher resistance coil. Will do more testing.

Well, I have figured this out and now and can post this for future Z owners that convert their 280Z to a ZX (E12-80) ignition. First I tried what ZedHead recommended and replaced the (E12-80) with on of my OEM backups. Result.. no change tac remained non functional below 1200 RPM. I’ve kept coming back to my original theory which was the Tac doesn’t like voltage greater than about 12.5V. I surmised this because I put my multimeter in the tac and measured the voltage charges as I revved the engine. Voltage drops at the tachometer at higher RPM. I noticed that around 12.3v it would begin to indicate RPM. I then checked my primary resistance on the coil. It came to .6 Ohms Using Ohms laws voltage = current x resistance. I determined that with a .6 ohm coil I was pushing the max alternator voltage to the tachometer. So I went out and bought a 1.5 Ohm coil. Put that one it and the tac magically worked. I have three coils on hand now and tested each one. With the 1.5 ohm coil installed I should be reading a lower voltage at the tach At idle it’s around 10.3 v. With the 1.0 ohm coil installed I read around 12.5v at the tach and the RPM worked at idle With the 0.6 ohm coil installed I read 13.4v at the Tach and no reading at idle. So I believe the mystery is solved. I learned a lot on this problem and I also got to test my backup ECU and (E12-80) ignition modules. Time to move on the the next problem….do they ever end? Thanks for the help guys!

Okay, you’ve convinced me to try this. I have another completely rebuild ZX distributor that I’ll try out. I wanted to test it anyway so I’ll see what happens. I may even have an additional E12-80 ignition unit on top of that .

I’ve pretty much done that already.

Okay more research to run by you all. The E12-80 ignition unit needs 12V to function as advertised. The e12-80 module likes a 0.84 to 1.02 ohm primary resistance coil because the currents and voltages match the modules' duty cycle. So putting in a 3 Ohm coil could cause issues with E12-80 ignitions especially above 4500 RPM. The 280Z tachometer uses voltage not current to read RPM. It prefers 5-10v. 280z works great with a 1.0 ohm coil when there is a ballast resistor between it and the tachometer. The ballast resistor only add the resistance after the engine is started. If I want let’s say 8v to the tachometer I need more resistance between the coil (-) and the tachometer. I’m thinking 8-10kohms. This explain why when people put a higher primary resistance coil their tachometers began working properly. on CaliforniaDatsun’s website for a ZX distributor upgrade he has this blurb in the write up.

Researching the web I found a post where a guy had the same problem after adding the ZX ignition. ZedHead was on this post. This guy had an MSD coil and when he went back to his OIC coil the problem went away. I have the same coil I was using before I removed the ballast resistor? Does anyone think adding a resistor to blue white on the coil would fix this. Not sure if the old ballast resistor dropped the voltage to the tach. Or I can try a different coil Here is another thread on hybrid Z. This guy changed his coil too and it fixed the problem. The stock coil is designed to be used with the ballast resistor and is rated at 3 ohms without a ballast resistor you want a 1.5 ohm coil. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/125373-tach-not-reading-below-~1200-rpms/

Okay, I tested all those connection. First us3 the continuity setting the the the resistance to verify the actual ohms. - Black wire on dash harness side to ground shows “short”. With a reading of 1.2 ohms, - Blue white (LW) on dash harness to neg post of coil. Shows “open” with 2.23 k ohms - Then tested Bluw White (LW) on diagram to the resistor and it shows “short” with .3 ohms - other side of resistor to neg coil post shows “short” with . 3 ohms -resistor itself tests ar 2.2 kOhms -when I put a jumper where the resistor it goes I get a” short” reading with 1.6 ohms This all looks correct to me. Of note the thee gauge lights to the tachometer do not illuminate with all the other lights on the dash. New bulbs in there also.

Okay, was gone all weekend for kids sports tournaments but I’m back in the garage this AM. I’ve moved the capacitor (condenser) to the positive terminal on the coil. Stated the car…no change in the tachometer readings. Then I completely removed the TIU in the passenger footwell and wrapped covered and wrapped this wires that went to that. Started the car….no change in the tachometer. I then put my voltmeter on the red wire going to the back of the tachometer and started the car. 13.3 V at idle and 12.8 V while reviving the engine. I read that t tac needs a lower voltage here, but when I removed the inline resistor in the passenger foot well ( and left that circuit open). Then built a jumper to put the resistor on the red wire reconnecting to the back of the ta, it didn’t show any RPM at all. Thought I maybe needed to jump the wire to close that circuit where the resistor originally came but wasn’t sure if that would make a difference. SteveJ….any other ideas? I haven’t changed out the E12-80 unit for one of my backups but I really didn’t think that would make a difference. Any ideas appreciated.

Well, I think it blended nicely. I took the switch out of that car so I could look at it and possibly incorporate a similar one in the future. I’ll have to dig it up. I think if it were a black rocker switch it would be very discrete.

I my junk yard explorations I stumbled on a 280z that had a rocker switch in the location the “floor temp” light goes. You can easily pop out the back plate and install a switch left/right lighted rocker switch there. I thought it was a good location.

Well it can’t be any worse than my complete lack of knowledge in this area. The fact that when I removed the stock 2.2k ohm resistor from the harness in the passenger foot well and that caused the tachometer to not work at all make me think I could have the TiU still connected. And what the purpose of the capacitor on the post terminal, I know it for noise canceling but how does this effect the tachometer, or is this bad info?

ZH, I saw that post where you talked about putting on the negative side of the coil. I’ve seen it on other posts as well like over on HybridZ. Was hoping it would work for me. I’m going to follow SteveJ and see where it leads me.

Steve, thanks. Word on the street was you were the guy with exceptional knowledge in this area. I won’t get to the car this weekend but I’ll go and confirm everything you mentioned. I thought I totally disconnected the TIU but I could be wrong . I may have reconnected it because I thought the wires were just hanging there. I’ll move that condenser over too the positive side and report back my findings .

I’ve been troubleshooting and searching online to figure out my tachometer problems since I installed the ZX distributor with the E12-80 ignition module. My problem is I don’t get any tac readings below 1200 rpm. Doing my research I’ve seen many other with this problem but the links have died on some of these posts so I’m only getting one page of most of these threads. So today I bought a new condenser and connected it to the negative side of the coil, because my old one broke. I’m not sure what the uF rating is but is didn’t help the problem. The stock ignition module on passenger side is completely disconnected. I pulled the tach resistor off the harness located in the passenger footwell area and the connected it to the red wire on the back of the tac. When I did this the tac stopped working completely. I put the resistor back in it normal location and the tac worked but still didn’t show rpm below 1200. What I’ve read is that is the the tac needs a voltage between 5v and 10v. Outside that range is when problems arise. Not sure where to go from here but I know someone on here has done this ignition mod and figured this out. Any help is appreciated! Also I’ve tested two separate tachometers and both have the exact same Indications. Video link:

So, I’m going to post this here because…..it’s awesome and I love Jason Cammisa. Here is Hagerty’s latest 240z video that came out today. Enjoy

Nah…..big boned!

So we have three streams of debate about Ethanol. 1. Is it better for the environment? 2. Is it better or worse for your car? 3. It’s deeply rooted in politics We’ve touched on 2 and 3 and I think the conclusion on 2 is that it is probably not great for a classic car but fine for modern vehicles. It might be better to seek non-ethanol gas for your Z, but it’s not going to kill your Z either. On 3…people with differing political views on oil, energy and ethanol will not change sides. We humans are too deeply rooted in our belief systems and are unwilling to give quarter to the the other side even in the face of facts to change points of view so this debate it’s sort of pointless. On point 1. We can just follow the science. The science states corn based ethanol is probably not better and may in fact be worse for the environment. This guy breaks it down using science and data from prominent professors and institutions like Harvard. Super smart guy that I follow on YouTube. His channel is Engineering Explained and he reminds me of what Captain Obvious was probably like about 15 years or more ago.

So after driving a couple hundred miles with success I discovered my brakes aren’t up to snuff. I have stock rear drums and Wilwood calipers and rotors on the front and a stock 7/8” master cylinder. There was a lot of brake pedal force required to stop the car and I couldn’t lock up the brakes when I tried. The booster was under suspicion. I pulled the line off the intake that goes the brake booster and put a vac pump on it. Nothing….couldn’t get the needle to move on the pump. I double checked for hose leaks and couldn’t find one. To confirm my findings, I plugged up the nipple on intake line that the brake booster hose normally goes on and drove the car. Brakes were exactly the same with the booster not attached. I also had to adjust my engine idle screw after warm up to get the idle right which make me think the intake was seeing a vacuum leak with the booster connected. So I pulled the booster and sent it off to Power Brake Exchange. Should be back next week. $120 plus $40 to powder coat it. I considered just buying a new one but these guys warranty the booster for life and the crap you get at the local auto stores like duralast (duratrash) and cardone don’t inspire me. Car is off the road for a week. I knew I’d be working out kinks these coming week and slowly expanding the car’s operating sand box. Also seeing a intermittently low oil pressure readings. After teases him I realize I have a Oil Pressure Sending unit from the wrong year. Mine should have a single bullet connector and the sensor on my block has 2 spade connectors in a “T” shape. I had to modify my wire to attach it when I put it on. I’m wondering if this is my problem, I just ordered the proper one and will see how that works. If it shows similar readings, I’ll have to dig further. Side bar question. Does anyone know where you can get the replacement rubber boots that go on the brake cable right where the cable connects to the rear wheels (one per side). Mine are dust. Thanks

Well did you make it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

“I consider” was the word I used. We live in a world full of bias. I personally believe with all my reading and education that we this article is probably very accurate. We need energy to maintain our status on the global stage. The counter is a place you nor I probably want to live. I’ve been to every continent except Antarctica and more countries than I care to count. I’ve seen poverty all over and fossil fuels have benefited humanity in untold ways bringing people out of poverty. It is not without its consequences. Without fossils fuels we can’t get to a green sustainable energy future. It is literally the road map and engine to the future. You can’t build all the solar panels and windmills without it. You have to transition intelligently. We’re have to import the oil now already, why now use ours. We extract it cleaner and safer than anyone else and it enriches our population not Putin or the dictator in Venezuela or the extremist is the Middle East. This is just common sense… Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is a very recent article from the Wall Street Journal. I consider the WSJ one of the most unbiased and reliable new organizations. Read the article before commenting. https://www.wsj.com/amp/articles/alaska-native-american-energy-lng-natural-gas-pipelines-inupiaq-eskimos-oil-exports-north-slope-federal-land-biden-ukraine-invasion-11646413138 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We have made a choice to be dependent on Russia and the Middle-East Oil and that dependency has left to untold deaths and war. We have enough oil reserve in Alaska alone to provide for all our oil needs for over 100 years but we’ve made a choice not too. We can do It with environmental controls and strict adherence to rules and regulations. I love the outdoors…I love pristine forests but we can do this. We not ready to transition today….we need at least a decade or more to do it safely and without destroying the middle class and the economy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I doubt ethanol effects the injectors but I could be wrong. All new car use injectors and don’t seem to be effected. I guess it’s possible the older ones are different? That video S30drover posted earlier showing how much water is absorbed by ethanol was pretty remarkable. Do people in the Netherlands gas with Ethanol in all those boats? In the US boaters use ethanol free gas for marine engines for good reason.

Policies not politics is fine. I’m not married to neither party. My concern is, I’m not sure the transition in it current form will be successful. Gas prices are extraordinary and hurting the people that are in the lowest income brackets disproportionately. These are the exact people that can’t afford and EV. They’re the screwed class! EVs are 50k min. You have to build the network before you force this transition. Government rarely does things efficiently or effectively. Government didn’t build the 1000’s of gas stations in the US. Private companies did. I’ve been involved in Government contracts…disaster is a understatement. It’s ripe for fraud and corruption. I don’t think the industry dumping waste into rivers is a valid argument? Private companies build car and it regulated and inspected by EPA, OSHA etc. That’s a better model. Incentivize private industry to build a network with strict standards like plug types. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk