Labubre

Hi, Got my Z with XXR 002.5 15/8 and ET0 & 215/60 tires. Happy. But front center caps wont fit as a 0,8in overheight going out of the wheel. Did anybody find a suitable center cap out there? Thanks Seb

Thanks for support! Got this from a french dude Use original 280Z rear bumper hole to fix a plate also fixed to new 240Z bumpers. Look like what you did ramsesosirus Will go for it Thanks!

Hi, Do have rear brackets that looks fine. Not the problem. Any trick to fix rear bumper on body side? I mean, can 280Z rear side bumper original holes be used or is the only way to drill through the double wall body? Thanks for your help and pics!

available on amazon, carsteering.com... Require the 2 right tie rod end trick...

Thanks! Got in touch with the guy on ebay.

I saw the at 200 $ at TTTuning... ouch!!!

Got a good contact that help me to pass the French technical inspection. I only have to change this part & treat some rust. Next control in 5 years!

Hi there, Got to change my left inner tie rod...the one that's seems to be disrupted. Heard of getting a right one + right side rod and installing all this on the left side. Just wondering if anybody have validated an alternate part from ZX or other that may suit. Thanks for support. Seb

Hi My experience sharing on last 3 years on my 77 Z. Year of purchase: BPR5ES-11 (7634). Good crank, summer/winter Year +1: new NGK wire set + BPR6ES (7811). OK summer/winter but less good than BPR5ES-11 Year +2: new cap & rotor + BR6ES11 (3824) - NOK much harder to fire up! Need to change Now i am interested in explanation of somebody can... @Captain: was there coconut in UK during King Arthur's legend?

No! I've been advise to do so by my carbody shop owner. Professionnal tip i cannot give feedback on.

i've been told steel wool 0000 to be one of the best solution...tested?

info@bumperclassic.com Rooney (aka Duy) will answer you.

For those who are looking for some bumpers... Tried to order from TYNDA that i found on ebay, then on alibaba. TYNDA is located in Vietnam, and mentions they are manufacturing for Harrington Group (main europe bumper provider) Website : www.bumperclassic.com http://bumperclassic.com/index.php/about-us-team Facebook site : https://www.facebook.com/Tyndabumper Alibaba site : https://vn1293675903ggbk.trustpass.alibaba.com/ Skype : rooney.rio Took my chance, something like 650 USD delivered to France, plastic strips included (no hole drilled), paypal fees included...not VAT Delivered in less than 10 days Not installed yet, will wait for EuroDat brackets. On Datsun France forum, saw that www.bumperautomobile.com was proposing the pair of bumper at 450 USD (no shipping included). Nobody tested yet... You have the drawing attached of these bumpers from TYNDA.

Thanks. Will do! hope one of these proposal will work...because i am afraid to get lost in the wiring diagram, it's like a maze to me!!!! PS: love the color, original Datsun paint? racing green?

Thank you SteveJ!!! My car is stock Look that i can make this by myself! :) Will try the swap and give feedback. PS: great lins and pictures. Congrats

Hi, I've been through some forums before posting this. Got a 77 Z, one day had to activate hazard signal because of very slow traffic... I press the button and instead of activating the signlas i got a strange noise "brzz" and saw the battery indicator going down to "0". Right after i also noticed the loss of blinkers, but don't know how or why, they came back to life by themselves. Status is that: When i activate the hazard, no signal and hazard are not working. When i activate blinkers, they both work, but if i press the hazard signal, they will stop working. Oh, my battery signla is still akward, sometimes showing full battery, sometimes going down to "0" by himself. Yesterday, i even saw the gauge moving when i was pressing onto the brake pedal... I have all technical documentation, and if my english is good, my hands are still bad and i don't get a think in electricity... I have a garage shop owner that loves my car but that does not speak english...what a team! I would like to start investigating this winter on it and fix it as i shall be in trouble at next technical car review. Any help, drawings, experience feedback would be very helpfull. Thanks you guys Seb

@Chickenman, thanks for feedback. "Strut spacer" is more like "strut centering part at the bottom". German Zist are removing this during installation. My mechanic warned me about some risk of installing spring that way, we have a lot of bumps on our roads here to slow down traffic, and if wheel takes off, the spring could get out of its location and then serious issue can happen... Coilover is more expensive but seems to be the safer way to go.

Hi, Did someone faced the same issue??? New KYB with right reference at their respective position front/rear. + Vogtland springs with right reference = Spring gap of 0,5 inch for the rear, and bit less for the front Carbody shop refused to install them pretending it was too dangerous... Does the strut spacer needs to be removed? Is that safe? Thanks for ideas and experience sharing Seb

Hi, Would love this badass look on my 15x8, 0 offset XRR 002.5 wheels... Suspension is stock. Will it rub? Any other remark? Thanks Seb

Hi there BCDD removed! Problem solved and i can enjoy now cruising with my Z. Niiice Thanks for support! Seb

Hi, Are you looking for a US buyer only? I know how to import a Z, did it 2 years ago for my "77 Z from Cheasepeake, VA. After taking care of mine, my carbody shop garage owner wants one!!! I know how to arrange, pick-up + overseas shipping and overseas bank transfer. Let me know and i will share picture with him (no english speaker) by the way, nothing wrong with BCDD (removed?), AC blows cold, radio, clock and other dashboard stuff working OK? No cracks in dash board cover? Thanks. Seb

Great! Sounds like we're getting closer BCDD / AFM / Throttle valve As soon as i can drive my car out there, i'll get it to a local experts with all your ideas! Thanks to all Be sure i will post the solution to my problem

Thanks Greg Look easy enough for me!!! Is this hypothesis compatible with the fact that issue does not exist when engine is "cold"? Will try Love your rims!

Hi there, Looking for ideas to test or for THE solution to my problem. So far did not find the same topics open and closed. So at stop, everything is perfect. Stable idle at 800-900rpm. No effect of pressing clutch or brake. When gas pedal is released, rpm comes back to normal. When engines hot (above 120°) then start the troubles: 1. Gear shifting up or down: from gear 2, rpm goes up to 2000rpm on their own and only come back to lower idel when gear is engaged. During shifting, if i keep clutch down, idle comes back to normal after 1-2 seconds. And so, when engine is cold, no similar issue till temperature reaches 120°. I also remember the first time i drove her smoothly at 40-50 mph in 5th gear, idle at 1500rpm...i felt the car would never stop as if there were no "engine brake" (bad translation i guess). 2. Second test: in a downhill at low speed and all pedals up, no gear engaged, i let the car take speed on its own. When the car reached a certain speed, i saw the rpm moving up to 2500rpm without any action from my side. Rpm went back to normal when i succeed to slow the car and engaged a gear. Same, on a cold engine, nothing similar happens. So any help would be more than welcome for a dummy mechanic like me that just fell in love with Z and just imported my 280 from US this summer. Cannot believe anybody faced this and solved it. But nobody clearly post the solution. Help me to do it! Thanks Seb