drunkenmaster

Speaking of asian breweries: We went to a micro-brewery in Shanghai and it wasnt pretty. Got hooked on the local Tsing-tao beer though, I still buy it if I see it around in Melbourne. To me it tatses like a cross between a Coldie and Hoegaarten (Belgian beer cafe on st. kilda rd and Pavillion on Doncaster Rd a few places with this on tap in Melbourne ). I was told by a waiter that apparently when Shanghai was more an international hotspot many years ago the Germans had a few breweries. When they left the Chinese working there took them over and using the same techniques made their own beer, Tsing- tao. Dont know how accurate the story is, but doesnt sound hard to beleive and answers why it tastes similar to Hoegaarten.

I'm looking at buying this car from a fellow member, howeever I would like some advice on the following picture. the crease marks on the underside this bonnet towards the front suggest to me that the bonnet has been folded over in an accident of some kind? Right or wrong?

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0381&P=1 Apparently so, check out the results. For my zed I am thinking about using a centre offset rear muffler such as the genie tornado and perhaps a centre straight through muffler midway, or perhaps another centre offset. Another muffler is more desrved that a thinner resonator I think.

centre straight through or centre offset straight through muffler? I read a review where the genie tornoda muffler in centre offset congifguration was both one of the best flowing and quietest in the smaples tested, autospeed review i think it was.

Ahh coldies..... I heard alcohol content in U.S beer is significantly lower, is this true?

I have been looking at finding some door trims in decent shape and see a lot of them tend to warp and crack (being wood), presumably a mix of water and wear and tear. Is there any tried and tested way for protecting/preserving these? Their shape looks a bit complex to copy using sheet metal. I was thinking about coating them with resin and a thin layer of fibreglass matting. Opinions?

Thats good to know, the car has been up for quite a while now, it looks fine but i didnt want any unpleasant suprises when i take it off the stands. :paranoid:

I went to ACT with a friend of mine who is a cop here in melbourne. Was pretty funny, on the front doors of the little "banned products" strip in fyschwick (sp?) were signs saying police not allowed entry unless with a warrant. We went in to a couple and both times they were trying to suss out if we worked for any authorities. They explained the loop hole how they are allowed to sell fireworks and it is legal to buy them, but illegal to use them :stupid: Needless to say I bought a few rockets and a mortar set for my brother for his birthday

hmmm.... i'm thinking I have done something wrong. My car is up on stands and has been for the month or 2. I used a section of sub-frame that runs width wise along the rear, not length wise up and down the car. http://www.angelfire.com/hi3/hiper/260Zdiffremoval.html .

Most import wreckers who sell half cuts etc sell old long nose R200 LSD's. They are not really that rare, but some of the preferred ratios are.

Rust is one of the bigger issues as all the mechanicals can be replaced fairly cheaply. Have a look in the paint and body forum for the rust problems another fellow australian Z'er had: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6346 Chassis rail rust is the most important to watch out for IMHO, other panel rust can easly be cut and new metal welded in.

Im getting feed back that genrally 3.9-4.1 is the way to go. As for highway driving in the Z, im not sure as yet. I havent seen it do any driving Thanks

What in considered an optimum ratio for the best compromise between acceleration and economy/speed? Depending on the motor used as well I am guessing?

Thanks for that. Do you know if the 260Z centre instrument section (radio, heater etc) will fit into the 240Z dash? The reason I ask is that I have picked up a 240Z dash in a pile of Z scrap parts yesterday.

rear 1/4 windows window winder mechanisms windows window frames all interior plastics centre consoles door handles all locks EVERYTHING!! If the car is basically complete i'd take the whole thing, panels dont worry me. How much was it

What did that 2 seater come with? interior etc? I got one 240Z badge in the heap, brand new, not sure where it goes though. Its about 15cm long and says "240Z", he had about 5 of them, 2 orginal '69 ones, the rest replicas. He didnt want to part with them but at the last minute threw one in. Why 240Z tail lights? I think they look better than they 260Z ones witht he seperate reverse light. I always wanted them but was never going to puch for them, but when he whipped out these ones which are in good shape, i couldnt say no to fulfil my fantasy Now the question, do you have any spares you want to sell

Went to have a look at a guys collection of Z spares and here is the result: http://www.angelfire.com/hi3/hiper/260Zjunk.html Looks like Im officially collecting spares now rather than buying that impossible to find parts car. If anyone has any of the stuff that is missing in the above link, let me know

What are the differences or which would you prefer? Thanks

I assume the relay connection is just battery, headlight switch and headlight? Hide it somewhere and tuck the wiring away as neat as possible? I might try and cut and shut the instrument panel/switches from the dash of whatever front cut i choose into the zed dash, should make it extra fun too.

I havent tried them yet, as I dont have an engine or electrical system I mean the assembly I guess.

Thanks guys, I remember seeing it done on the "zbuild" (yellow 240z from zoom) and since I am stripping the underbody at the moment, anything I can do at the same time catches my interest. I dont really see it as necessary, but just wondering what other people thought.

Arch, what H4's did you use? I picked up some spare Hella H4's originally sitting around Zworx, they said they were the right ones, i went on their word. If yours are hellas do you have the model # and a rrp thanks

Thanks guys

Thanks guys. I have removed the whole strut already, I need to remove the link and swap it to another shortened coilover equipped strut that I have. Will give it a go.

How do i get this bolt out?? There is a lock bolt in the centre I think i need to remove, then hopefully the pivot bolt will slide out. I took the nut off the lock bolt (which did nothing, dont knwo why its even there) but I cant see how to remove the the bolt itself. Thanks guys