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drunkenmaster

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Everything posted by drunkenmaster

  1. If it is in fact an L28 it may be of interest to someone? NISSAN L28 2LTR turbo charged eng, inc turbo, dump pipe and external waste gate, 350hp, ExCond, suit 240z-280zx. $2200 (03) 98917665 Doncaster
  2. Admittedly I didnt do mine but the person who did applied epoxy primer after sandblasting, followed by a white undercoat then colour.
  3. My trusty runabout is for sale here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12585 Good cheap EFI car to get you to work or to drive around in while your 240/260 is off the road. I have done so for 6 monthes and it hasnt given me any trouble, however I just picked up a ute and have no room for 3 cars.
  4. Sounds like a good all round package, how straight is the body? As my project steps on the $20,000 mark, I can't help but wonder what something like that costs? please PM if you wish
  5. Yup, RB internals are fairly tough. My RB30 is on its way home too cuong and my engine bay is all painted up ready to accept it. Will be intersting to compare notes once running.
  6. Its probably not worth it anyhow, those boxes are only around the $500 mark locally on the 2nd hand market.
  7. Yes I noticed that, but I was trying to get at that boxes in general might be cheaper over here. My freight isn't organised yet, but I will let you know this week who it is done through. where are the boxes coming from?
  8. how much are those boxes? I heard rb25det boxes command $2000+NZD, which is approaching double what they are worth here. That made me want to look for boxes locally.
  9. Still over there. Havent found a 260Z wreck over there so it will come here with no mounts and OEM sump. Still trying to sort out turbo details. On Jack's advice I'm looking at a GT30 over the T3/T04 as was my original plan, but apparently they are considerably more expensive over there, perhaps I will have to buy and fit it here also and make up the lines. The plumbing i.e oil and water lines is one thing I dont really want to do that much of.
  10. Its all starting to fall into place:
  11. Take it to zworx.com.au you can see my car there too. Rob can spot dodgy body work a mile away.
  12. Im not sure what you mean? I have decided to shy away from a cage so hopefully the seam welding, rails extended to the rear and maybe some strut tower braces will be the next best thing as far as flex is concerned. Here is another pic of the fabricated rail extension, obviously not finished yet
  13. Seam welding all round and frame rail extensions anyone? :cheeky:
  14. if its the same as the bitumen mat deadening on the 260Z i used a chisel and momentum. On my first 260Z which had been a shell for a while, the matting had dried out and become brittle, sliding a chisel between it and the metal with force shattered it into flaking sheets. On my 1977, the bitumen was as new, the above method worked, but with much slower results as it was still sticky. I found that using a heat gun on the matting long enough for it to become plyable but not long enough for it to become almost liquid worked well and i was able to lever the bulk of it off with a chisel.
  15. Good idea. I still have something of yours by the way too.
  16. The oil light next to the oil temperature needle has started to intermittanlty come on in my 280zx. I doubt it is oil getting too hot as it is usually on when the car is first started cold, then disapears and comes on in various situations while driving. I am wondering if this light refers to oil pressure not temperature which is featured on the lower half of the same guage?
  17. As soon as my engine arrives i'll sell it. It is much lighter than i expected but freight might still be an issue
  18. I have a 260Z box which i may sell soon :devious:
  19. I beleive the location of the oil filler determines whether it is a 280zx or 260z box, the 260z being the more desirable. if you like you can run a search on performanceforums.com, I started a topic my Z a while ago and some useful info like this popped up
  20. I contacted racepace and will see what they say. The reason I chose this NZ workshop is that they specialise in building these motors and have a 10 second skyline using one, they also offered me a great deal on fabricating engine mounts and sump for me using a dummy car. HOWEVER it is turning out not to be as smooth as I wanted when they accidently got in a 280ZX dummy car instead of a 240z/260Z, im now trying to find a 240Z/260Z wreck in NZ. It was a gamble, we will see what happens in the end thanks
  21. Realistic 250 kw at the wheels, car is built more for track than drag strip but after spending so much time on the body i dont know if I want the stone chips :stupid:
  22. Sorry to cross post guys but I need some urgent help from our New Zealaner members If any new zealand members could take a look at my post here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11410 Im after a 240Z/260Z junk heap for a motor test fit, any leads or info would be great. thanks James
  23. what ballpark am i looking for the equivalent GT series turbo?
  24. brake parts, airflow meter......wait, for your car or parts you can sell easy? you should be able to sell door trims, tail lights, instrument panel and levers/buttons etc pretty easy.
  25. Yes, I was talking about the throttle bodies alone, you are talking about a full EFI conversion. In the first couple posts of the thread only the independant TB's were in question, there wasnt any mention of EFI pumps, injectors etc etc

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