Tomcat

Hello, Sorry if I'm rehashing but I can't find exactly my situation and this seemed the closest thread. Stock '71 240 sat for about 5 years but y'all have me back running and driving but not running well at all ... stumbling acceleration and backfiring. Taking the bowl covers off, the rear was almost bone dry and I tracked that down to a clog of crud in the rear throttle body that I've cleared. While I was that far anyway, I cleaned everything and am putting it back together now but having a problem with the piston/chamber operation. I believe I've kept the parts in their original sets. I have not adjusted anything to do with the needle or nozzle. Here's what I've run into now: Without oil, both pistons move up and down freely on or off the car but when I add any weight of oil, one of them has a good feel when pushed up but the other has a very heavy resistance. I can only describe it as one taking a "1 count" to move one up with moderate pressure on the bottom of the piston and the other taking a "3 count". Since adding the oil started the problem, I swapped the plungers and the trouble travelled with it making me think it is the fit of the plunger with the cavity of the piston that contains the damper oil. I gently cleaned the plunger with no new results and now I'm stuck. Any good next steps? Thanks in advance, --Thomas A side question, just to be sure, the flow to the bowl fully shuts off at 9/16 (562.5/1000) or that is where the when the pin just touches the float lever and begins to close off the supply.

I realize it's an old thread but I often get tips that are years old so I thought I would add what worked for me. The car was sitting on jackstands for 5+ years in the Alabama humidity. I had replaced the master, slave and line between them then did an old-fashioned 2-person bleed. The pedal was very firm but the clutch would not disengage and I couldn't grind into any gear. This is what I did in order, not knowing which steps were helpful or not but I was eventually able to get it unstuck: Changed the transmission fluid. Pressed the cutch pedal down and pinned it to the floor with a stick and let it sit overnight. Let the car fast idle for about 15 minutes to warm everything up. Pumped the pedal twenty or so times. Tried pushing the car in 4th with no luck. While still warm and turned off, I put the car in first gear and bumped the starter without it starting and the car lurched forward a few feet each time. On the forth or fifth time it broke loose and didn't hear or smell any signs that I damaged anything. Hopefully this will help someone in the future. --Thomas

Sorry for the slow reply. Yes, "Krud Kutter". Either it was mostly rust or I let it set too long. grannyknot, let me know if you have one.

Completely disolved the ring. I see the kits around $60 on-line. If you have a used one for less please let me know.

Thanks Mark. Will do. What is its function?

Hi, I'm trying my hand at restoring a steering wheel and can't determine the function of this metal ring. It is a little rusty but I can't seem to remove it (that woild be nice) but if it doesnt matter I will leave it as is. --Thomas

I don't see Harada on it anywhere like there is on my 240. I have the drain tube, mounting bracket, and most (I believe) of the mounting hardware ... they were just off in the pictures. Thank you, Thomas

Thanks! Yes, once I found the post a few minutes ago that the case was ground and one wire was up and the other wire was down. I had been putting 12V across the two wires in both directions with nothing but a few sparks. Luckily, it doesn't seem to have hurt it and I also see the order of mounting hardware on here which is very helpful.

Hey, I bought this as part of a lot of 240Z parts but not sure if or what year(s) Z it is correct for. The number 4030 is the only marking I can see. Thanks for any help. --Thomas

That matches what I found at http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=D412 once I kept digging. I had hopes it was a Series 1 for resale value but good to know what its correct fitment is. Thanks to all of you for the help. S30 240Z 22100-E4601 L24 MT -0871 22100-E4603 L24 MT 0971-0672 <> 22100-E4601 22100-N3300 L24 MT 0772-0773 22100-E8000 L24 AT 0870-0672 D61 22100-N3305 L24 AT 0772-0773

Hi, I live close to Huntsville, AL and have an Feb. 71 car that is temporarily off the road due to a gas leak at the tank. You're welcome to come look at it and take pictures, etc. Otherwise ... depending on how long "a few weeks" is ... stay in touch and I'll head that way once I get the leak sorted out. If it matters, my car seems to be at the break between Series 1 and series 2 and as far as I know is original except I have removed the A/C and some of the bits off of the balance tube.

View Advert NOS Distributor I could use some help with with what vehicle this fits. I've believe it is for a 240 and tried to sort it myself but cannot find anything definitive. I would want the buyer to pay the actual shipping cost. Thanks, Thomas (Sorry to post twice. I couldn't see a way to edit the original ad.) Advertiser Tomcat Date 08/01/2019 Price Category Parts for Sale

View Advert NOS Distributor Before I post this I could use some help with with what vehicle this fits. I've tried to sort it myself but cannot find anything definitive. Thanks, Thomas Advertiser Tomcat Date 08/01/2019 Price Category Parts for Sale

Hi, I need the original Nikki fuel pump and of course the am radio.

@siteunseen Hi, I sent him a message. --Thomas