Dave WM

started to miss fire, then could not get to start, was sure I had a pressure issue, started checking everything, then she comes out "does it have any gas in the tank".... Nuff said.

Holy smokes, I could stare at this for hours, fantastic work!

you could try sweeping them with an ESR meter, they can be used in circuit. My buddy just uses an audio source and feeds a signal thru them and test by ear (again in circuit). But if they are easy to get at, I would just replace them. I am sure they are way past any expected service life. I generally will not replace a part unless I am pretty sure its bad but on caps like those, if you have one bad then good chance the others of same brand/make are suspect.

very good separation. Sound is cleaner than the old aftermarket that came out. I suspect it needed some new caps as I was getting a lot of noise as well as muddled sound. I did test the 8 track drive and it worked, but there was a lot of motor noise (again prob caps) getting thru. I will prob take it apart and re do just to have one on hand.

installed, some how I managed to goof the L an R plug, when I get motivated I will pull it and reverse.

next time out try opening the hood after stopping, then see if restarting gives you the same issues. You say is seems rich, how do the plugs look. Have you replaced the temp sensor? have you cleaned the electrical connections esp around the temp sensor including the bullet connectors. If the plugs show rich check the function of the cold start injector. Check the FSM for these symptoms.

that snapping is what I kept reading about, I got lucky they came out easy, and I did use anti seize for replacement. Only odd thing was the locating dowel holes on the AZ pump were oversized, so the dowels did not really locate it. I guess there could be an issue with the fitment of the vanes to the cover, but it all worked ok.

Try the 0000 steel wool, it will really polish up the metal and remove any residue that maybe gumming up the works. You can feel the difference, as you polish up the steel wool will feel grabby, but then will start to smooth out. It will generate some mess, so you may want to wrap the bottom of the ant with a towel to catch the tiny metal flakes from the wool. You can also try it on a old manual antenna 1st to see the results before trying on a prized antenna. I had no problems but would always suggest other try for themselves on something not valuable first.

I don't know if anyone else has experienced this, but I did note my switch getting hot when operating that power antenna. I put the switch in a small baggie and pumped in enough electrical contact cleaner in (aerosol can) to flood the entire switch, Then operated it while still in the baggie several times (not hooked up). After I also wiped the extended antenna down with some fine steel wool to polish up the metal. Plugged the switch back in, there was a noticeable improvement the speed of the antenna and the switch did not get warm at all. I prob should done one step at a time to see if it was the cleaning of the antenna or the switch in the electrical contact cleaner that did the most improvement.

I discussed it with my friend some more, he says I should be ok going aftermarket considering how little I drive it. I have NO exp with aftermarket pumps, but I have to assume Nissan no longer supports something this old.

Closer, switch installed and tested.

Friend of mine says made in China junk. Think I will be packing spare (to go along with my ECU and Ign module). Its a pretty simple device so not sure what would make it poor quality unless its just low quality bearings/seals or bad QC of the finished good. New to the car game, did some research on the old interweb, yikes a LOT of talk about water pumps, country of origin, QC, you name it there is several opinions going in several directions. Anyway I will report back on how THIS water pump works out so I can add to the chorus of noise.

any idea what that circlip looking thing in the last pic is all about? Oh and yes the car sounds much happier now.

gotta admit I did not pay attention to the front cover. I don't recall seeing anything shocking though that I would have made a mental note of.

video

here are some pics, video soon. the replacement pump from auto zone used the cast iron impeller and was 20$

ok lets say not full of steam I just saw some coming out from under the hood, and it was not until just after shutting down the engine. there was coolant everywhere, guess the pump leak hit the fan, I was slung everywhere forward of the engine. I am sure it did not overheat as I was watching it like a hawk the entire trip. I stopped for gas just a few miles short of the destination, no steam (so no leak yet?) and the temp gauge was rock solid after hitting the mid point. after I shut down it did start to spike but even then it still did not go past about 3/4. I restarted the car and could not see any obvious leaking (was looking for a stream of coolant before I zeroed in on the pump). My guess is the heat spike may have built up enough pressure to cause the leak after the second stop (or maybe the 1s stop but went unnoticed. it was more like wafting steam than live steam if that makes sense. Oh and I have checked my temp gauge is pretty accurate (to the water temp in the rad).

no service history on the car, I have had it less than a year so no idea on how old the pump was. I should have replaced it before but I was so freaked out about horror stories on snapped bolts I had decided to leave it be if the was no weeping or excessive noise. I clearly must have missed something unless its possible to fail the quickly with no real warning signs. Of course like I said the noise "may" have been there before the trip started and I had just overlooked it. I am pretty sure there was no weeping bit its not impossible that it was slight and just went unnoticed.

No warning signs of water leakage, if did get noisy maybe over weeks and I did not pickup on it. I would always check the engine bay after running and the rad after cooling, there was no loss of coolant, but most of my rides are short, just a few miles. The long trip high speed did it in. I did keep the core, will post up a video later to others can see/hear. I did not look it over to closely yet, but after getting it out it was clearly noisy and rough like shot bearings. My last Z (240 I had in the early 80's) threw a fan after breaking the pump shaft, taking out the rad on a lonely part of I-10 on a cold rainy night, not fun, this time I got lucky.

1st long distance drive (150 miles on Florida Turnpike) all good right up until I pull into my destination and then Steam... open hood coolant everywhere, I feel the fan pulley noticeable play and noise when engine running. I thought it sounded a little off when I headed out a 0 dark thirty, but guess the lack of caffeine had me not thinking straight . 2 hour later 70-75 mph before the steam.Auto zone 9:00 am do not have it but can have it by 3pm (Sunday). I did bring some tools but not my rad pressure tester. Auto zone comes thru and I get a rad tester (may keep it, nicer than my old one or AZ will refund me the entire purchase price). I was really fearing snapping bolts, but no prob, they all came out nicely. The AZ pump was the cast impeller type for 20$. Got some anti seize for the bolts (had to reuse) and some gasket adhesive (not sealant, but the stuff used to tack on the gasket). Maybe 2 hrs to pull and replace (gotta love how easy an L28 is to work on). pressure test, all good, back on the road and perfect temp never budged from just below the 1/2 way point, Oil pressure about 75 (if you believe the gauge) at about 3k rpm, a little higher at 3500 for 70 mph. I really dodged the bullet not getting stuck out at yeehaw junction....

a little more info, per the FSM there is supposed to be "porous plastic" on the side of the rubber disk that goes to the intake manifold. This porous plastic it what holds the disk off the hole so the air can flow in that direction (from vacuum tank to intake manifold). I don't know why but there was NO porous plastic in my valve. Perhaps it disintegrated at some point. Anyway mystery solved as to how the valve works.

I was thinking that since it would tend to more broadly distribute the pushing force (push buttons) against the console. That's the way I will go.

can someone tell the order of the install radio/metal plate/console/plastic face plate Or radio/console/metal plate/plastic face plate

It pretty much stayed just off shore (eye wall) keeping the max winds at sea. still going SC and GA often gets hit since it further east than Florida. Not over yet but looks like it Florida dodged it. Still have issues with power outages I presume, but the 2004-2005 season pruned much of the old grid, so the power is more reliable now. Guys on east side of Orange and Brevard still need to report in. I am sure it was worse for them. Merritt island prob took the biggest hit.

Still here, windy have not looked outside, see a lot of loose tree junk but nothing major, looks like will be ok. Seems to have hugged the coast and not come inland too far (south west orange county).