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Dave WM

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Everything posted by Dave WM

  1. i bought a new one from nissan, not a lot of money, I like to get OE parts where possible. opps did not notice the spring, my 280z that I was able to get the slave did not have one. Maybe 240z slave in NLA from nissan.
  2. if the engine is running well, no odd noises, compression checks out, oil pressure good, not burning excessive oil (a quart is less than 600 miles is considered excessive), head gasket ok (check for exhaust gases in radiator with simple test kit that looks for a color change in a fluid, sold at napa), oil does not seem to have water in it (milking looking). then I would just change the oil and drive it, see if those bits show up again at the next oil change. I generally do an oil change ever 3k miles, after adding 2 qts during that time (I burn about 1q per 1000 miles). That's using valvoline 20/50 racing oil in the summer and 15/40 rotella T4 in the winter. Its pretty hot where I drive so I use the high side of the recommended range of weights.
  3. I would avoid under coating just to prevent rusting, I know we dont have salt here but still eventually it will crack and let water get in, maybe trapped.
  4. another consideration for a new Z owner, lately they have gone up a lot in value. IF you want to preserve this increase in value understand any deviation from stock is likely to reduce the value, perhaps a LOT. things like poking hose in consoles to install after market controls, getting rid of OE vents and heating systems, installing after market radios (and cutting up consoles to install) adding speaker where they dont belong... the list goes on but basicly ANY change is a down grade. SO if that matters to you be aware before making changes, esp ones that are hard to recover from. the Antenna is a perfect example, its very hard to find a good power antenna, so if it breaks you can fix it or replace it. replace it and you get off cheap and it works, but you just down graded the car in the eyes of a collector. So with respect the to AC, IF the above matters to you, you would want to go with the OE dealer type , and live with the limits of that system. Just understand it will not be like a modern car for comfort on hot humid days.
  5. AC on 240's is weak, the orig system which iirc was a dealer added option, was a evap added ahead of the fan, so you had to draw air thru it, and by the time the air exited the smallish duct work it was not very cold. the later models changed this up to a evap added at the very end of the system, just ahead of the ducts, works better but still not great. The real issue IMHO is just the lack of good duct work by coparison to a modern car. On top of this the orig systems were designed around R-12. Conversion to R-134a is generally done but I am unsure if the condenser and evap work as well after the conversion, of all that is done is to replace the refrigerant. I have heard of folks installing whole new hvac systems, this requires pulling the dash, fabrication mounting gear (its a generic unit, not designed as a drop in replacement), and using a different set of controls (not using the existing control levers). On top of all that i have not seen one of these ever hook up the fresh air back to the cowl air duct, the general response is if you want fresh air roll down the window. bottom line is if you want a 240 with cold air, be prepared for re engineering the hvac. i would recommend 2k budget.
  6. hmmm looks like i have to go review the FSM, a closer look at my z show to distribution blocks, one seems to function only as a place to activate the brake warning switch, then there is a whole other assembly that I presume functions as the proportioning valve. I "think" the one snagged from the izuzu does both functions. anyway fun to take a part and mess with..
  7. well upon close inspection the PV is not an exact fitment, but still looks like it would work in a pinch.
  8. will do have to find the camera
  9. 1986 nissan PU truck, pretty decent under hood inspection light, works fine, lens in decent shape. 1991 izusu pickup what looks a lot like a brake proportioning valve. two inputs F and R on the top, a single R on the bottom a F on the bottom and the side even looks like the bolt up location would match for mounting. blew thru it, not plugged. I was thinking of trying to disassemble to see how the slide piston works to operate the switch. the switch looks a bit smaller but i presume it works the same.
  10. I dont know if it's a franchise, but I had my tank redone by a "renew" place locale to me. was pretty expensive lIRC but its been fine since.
  11. for some reason I am recalling the OD switch having something to do with emissions.
  12. i like 280 up (or 82 or what ever it is, gets confusing with so many shared rd numbers) from tifton all the way to phenix city. nice divide hiway, very low traffic (until you get to columbus anyway) interesting sites (like the little grand canyon) along the way. just have to watch out for the dear esp around ft benning.
  13. for my dragon run i am going to look into us 301, looks promising
  14. an jeez my trip home on 75 was a nightmare i start south from tifton, all the way to the fl t pike, min speed in fl is about 80 lest you get run over, truck running 3 wide at times, at one point i looked down and was north of 95mph, and just keeping up... do my best not to get squashed like a june bug. next time i may go the fl/ga parkway a little on the west side of the state but very little traffic, comes up thru monticello then on to albany.
  15. recently retired (sorta anyway) so hope to make a run to the dragon soon, missed it last year, but now work is much less an issue.
  16. on a prior trip a strange fail, i would show sudden slight discharge for a second then a massive overcharge (like 30amp indicate by the ammeter) for several seconds. it was so bad that i was concerned with frying the ECU, so I would turn on the lights just to try to load down the battery voltage. This happened repeatedly for hours while on the same long trip I finally got to my location and was able to buy a replacement alternator which fixed the issue, I had to turn in the old alternator and was never able to autopsy it to find out what was the base problem. I eventually repaired my orig alt that failed early in my owner ship (shorted diode pack), reinstalled it and have been running every since. anyway my theory the fuse issue is perhaps those sustained high voltage/current event may have damaged the fuses (the head lights were MUCH brighter during the event, I am sure the higher voltage was causing a much higher than normal current in the head light circuit. I don't recall replacing the fuses after that trip, and a almost never run my lights as i generally avoid nite driving. I have inspected the fuses/fuse holder/combo switch all look very good, no corrosion at all. i have not checked the actual head light connection but will do that as well. I assume the head lights are stock replacements, based on the brightness I dont think they are high wattage.
  17. I took a long road trip, several hours of night driving (i generally avoid night driving). hours into it i notice one head light seems seems very dim, the other still on but def not full bright. While stopping for gas I get out to look it over and while inspecting the very dim goes out completely. luck holds out on the other and I make it to daybreak. 1st place I check is the fuse box, good one is very hot other out. I pull them both, each shows signs of distress, partial melted. Replaced and all good again. Not sure why the partial melt down vs full blown, and all good now after more extended night running.
  18. the later zx trans with the .75 od and a 3.54 stock r200 diff will get you 80mph right at 3k
  19. I am not following what the problem is, is it not possible to just fix the orig problem? fuel injection and emissions on these cars are pretty simple, and when sorted out they works well.
  20. ah, nutcracker days, would love to have one of those back now...
  21. heath kits and radio shack p box kits were a lot of fun, I mostly built the P box stuff. The heath kits were clearly more advanced stuff.
  22. so you think it can be interchanged with a stock 75 ECU? vs a ZX ECU? Just relocate the wire harness and install a dry? the reason I ask is the dry sound like it may be more reliable than the one that is exposed to coolant.
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