Dave WM

A tire iron and a sledge, getting medieval on that thing eh :) CO makes a good point, it has to have somewhere to go.

maybe a clamp and small wedge.

I don't recall having to disconnect that for any of the bushings in the front suspension, but if you must I would try turning the steering wheel so the split section it up and with the bolt out completely try to get a wedge in there and twist back and forth some (not hammer on it) to see if you can open up some.

that is correct the fuel bulb is not checked. I have my fuel check light set up to come on when I have about 4 gallons from bone dry IIRC. I figure once you are down to about 1.5-2 gallons from dry you are virtually empty (car will suck air in left turns cause it to stumble, prob not run at 1 gallon). So I have about a 40-45 mile range when that light comes on. I wonder why every volt meter I see has that corrosion around the charging light?

gets some cork tape on that low side copper pipe as well. Easy to do now. That evap looks after market (the expansion valve). Is that correct? been thinking about getting one while still can JIC..

yea 60 is not a good outside temp to test it with, I am presuming the thermostat micro switch was cutting it off pretty quick to avoid freezing up. For comparison I just took mine out, starting temp 80f drive around the block I get down to 40f reading on a meat thermometer stuck in a main vent, max fan speed. down to 40 in about 2 min.

I had on of those on my old 240z, never really worked very well but I was a kid and did not know much about things back then. IIRC one of the biggest problems was lack of air flow due to the ducting really designed only to heat. Low flow fan and poor ducting resulted in less than optimum heat transfer at the evap. I would be tempted to find a shop that can install with R-12 on a system like that, just to remove one more variable from the equation (it was designed for R-12). I have heard of people using HC like butane,, but understand that it prob is not legal, and some may think not safe. Apparently its a very good refrigerant, large molecule gas so less likely to leak too. Also compatible with mineral oil IIRC. Anyway good luck with it, and plan for an upgrade of the fan.

might have missed it somewhere but is the evap behind the finisher or down in the foot well of the passenger side. when you said York I assumed the kind that has the evap down in the foot well, not a very good design. Think beginning in 260z they started making better AC with the evap right behind the finisher panel in the front.

pop for the drier, it gets the remaining moisture out. Also if it was R-12 it would have mineral oil in the system, not compatible with R-134a and the pag oil that prob was in the new compressor. IF there is any doubt about the oil that was in it, you should flush all the lines, condenser, and evap to get it out. you will need to add oil to the system as well, the compressor prob only had a couple oz in it, not enough if you flush all the rest out.

new drier, flush condenser and evap with solvent, check for leaks with dye or nitrogen and soap bubbles. see if it will hold a deep vacuum.

this is the one I was looking at https://www.ebay.com/itm/352359349981?ul_noapp=true

Failure #2 happened when engine was off (lower voltage) don't know if the lower speed had anything to do with it. Pulled it up and its fully extended now, maybe the kink will relax but I doubt it. Next up will be the .155. I also found the mid 70's corvette antenna mast and line looks very much like the Datsun setup. 50$ is an expensive gamble though.

that would be great, I am in no big hurry, just would like to fix it if fixable.

have AC, so would like to know before I pull it out. since it has to return to center I assume it has to have some kind of spiral spring that hopefully has an adj.

my early 280z uses the ammeter which I prefer to a voltmeter, anyway the problem is its not center when no current is being drawn. I was wondering if anyone knows off hand if there is a centering adjustment mechanical I would presume.

best thing you can do with a z is go put some miles on it, I swear the more you drive it the better it runs.

fun to go to the JY, can always find something to make the cover worth it. found a 10$ behind a glove box one time. around here its like a family outing, I see folks bringing the wife and kids, setting up picnic style out in the parking lot while the old man is in the JY.

I was a little confused about the extra cut outs in the OE jute, but I duplicated them anyway.

bought some jute from Mac's used the old beat up jute as a pattern. the little rubber heel guard was shot so I just cut up a junk yard mat for now. I have found that hook of hook and loop grabs the carpet very well so I will end up getting some replacement rubber that is a better fit. The OE carpet had it sewn on. The rubber backing on the carpet is about 20% gone, the plan is to try some plasti dip spray to add back the missing rubber backing.

not a huge deal, I am sure if you ever wanted one another could be obtained. Just keep an eye on that alum one. Hopefully it will not be an issue. I don't recall seeing shrouds on any alum install so my guess is they don't fit up right. I am only guessing about the need for it as far as AC is concerned, perhaps its not an issue.

Don't know anything about brake brands, I am pretty sure mine is not OE and has been fine so far (2 yrs + on it). I hope you kept your old rad, you can get them recored at a good shop. The thing about alum is its not really fixable like old copper brass stuff. I had a fan break loose and tear out a row of tubes, took it to a gas station on an interstate, he soldered them up and sent me on my way. the water pump failed was able get one of those and got me on my way. I see a lot of new copper brass rads, but I don't know who makes or how good they are. Also IIRC the drain seem to be in the wrong place for my setup.

I get OEM if easy to get. Example IGN switch, can still get cost 40$ vs 25$ for the aftermarket, not enough money savings to warrant after market. Pretty much apply that to most non critical stuff. really just have to do a case by case basis. I spent 250$ on a OE fuel pump vs 100$ for an after market, I just thought the OE would be more reliable AND a better match for the needs of the FI system (OE had lower pressure output, you don't need 90psi, so why stress out the FPR and plumbing for that). I notice you don't have a shroud on the rad, I don't know if that will effect the cooling in hot weather of the engine, but also you should consider the effect on the AC, you need the air flowing thru the condenser which may need the shroud even if the rad does not.

another financial reason to keep it intact, if you look at your car as an investment which I do not but understand some may, I suspect the minimal cost to maintain originality of ALL systems is something that pays off in the market. You can spend money to delete things or mod things that end up detracting from the value of the car, again based on current market driving forces. Yes a well modified car can bring in more money but generally not to the point of offsetting the cost of the mod. I don't think most of us here care much about the financial reasons for moding or not moding a car. Just something to consider. Think gas monkey garage, a lot of well done mods, but will the cost be recovered, prob not, would have been an easy flip with a profit, from a business point of view a loss, perhaps from a marketing point of view a gain. darn it Jim I am an accountant not a salesman (in my best Dr McCoy impression).

think he is in TN, in FL there are NO vehicle inspections. grab some chicken wire and duct tape and you are good to go with pretty much any car repair. "the rules are different here" state motto. that being said, my setup is completely stock, I like keeping everything as oe as possible. I was driving around in a parking lot the other day, guy says "you got a price on it" my response is "taking it with me to the grave" him, when you gonna die!

all kinds of opinions here. I am not qualified to answer other than to say what I have read indicates deleting it has no real performance advantage at full throttle (contrary opinions exist of course). Some say it will benefit the gas mileage at partial throttle, Seems the main thing it is designed for is to lower the combustion temps to reduce the creation oxides of nitrogen (key to making smog). I geek out over trying to respect the original design so tend to go that direction. I have it and AFAIK its not a problem. A recent trip returned 25mpg at mostly 70-80 mph. The main thing is to make sure the EGR valve is clean and fully closed at idle to prevent an leak of gas into the intake that would cause a rough idle. Easy to test just lift up the diaphragm of the actuator while idling. It will run rough, release and it should settle right back down. For me the idea of lowering combustion temps was the ticket, I like that. I don't have a lead foot and tend to take it easy mostly very short trips and the occasional long trip. It is one more thing to go wrong, but its not very complicated so not hard to service and have working right.