Dave WM

ditto on orig plastic bushings, replaced them years ago (4/5) working great. don't see the need for brass.

I think the hood should be a little bit longer as well.

I did a quick look at total seal site, seems they had a 2nd ring gapless option but now a 1st? at least that is my take from what I found looking at the pdf catalog under 75-80 280z. there was complete set for 81-83 280zx, showed those rings with a slightly different thickness IIRC.

I guess the RB is too old to bring back, too bad. I-4 yuck that would be bad., I remember the gas monkey 2+2 had one of those, what a waste, I would take a L28 all day over a 4 even a modern tubro one for sound alone.

I had hoped a inline 6 would be used, they seem to be coming somewhat back into favor.

looks less roundie soft looking than the 370z from what you can see, good. the current z looks too much like a punch buggy on steroids. I personally think the mid 90's TT 300zx is the best of them all. A little too busy in the cockpit, but body lines were perfect. I have often thought it would be nice to have one of those 90's era, but I like to work on my cars and that looks like no fun at all.

Suzuki water buffalo. My RM400 is a lot of fun. I have ohlin shocks, handles great and soaks up bumps very well.

oh and can not overstate the importance of getting that hole in the bush lined up with the oil galley. With out it you have a dry bushing. Its easy for the bush to get misaligned as you start driving it in (again with the hammer) as it can bounce just a bit on the 1st couple whacks and then you are out of alignment. Just keep an eye on it for the starting position on the install.

its been a while, I honesty just cant recall (old timers) but it was a BFH as you can see, and with that you let the weight do most of the work, so really just mildly hard taps. Def heat up outside and cool of inside 1st. It worked for me so I presume it will work for others. Clearly once you get it started your confidence will go up as you know its moving and the socket self guides. I press would prob be a better choice, I don't know why I did not use one at the time (perhaps did not have it, or too lazy to set up). the key to the heat cool is to it quickly so have everything ready, heat up the alum housing get it good and warm (don't melt the alum, keep in moving I would shoot for about 250f max if you have a way to tell) then invert the can soak down the inside bush all around (it will frost over instantly) and immediately go to work with the socket. if nothing hit it again with the cold stuff. You only have seconds before the temps will equalize as the alum is a very good heat conductor. I am just assuming this helps the process, I know it worked for me. could prob do with out if a press was used.

coal = cold, the canned air you buy for dusting off computers. Its really like form of Freon, invert can to get liquid not air, the liquid will evap and get the item very cold.

ah my video reminds me of using the cool heat process to help with removal as well

Sneek into a harbor freight with it and the socket, demo the press to yourself (if anyone ask), and bingo, done.

I recall it being kinda scary getting it out. understand the fear factor. Did you decide what you are going to do about the remaining bearing shield? Your shop guy may be the way to go. on the bushing removal you need a socket that fits well. A press would be better to avoid mushrooming, but IIRC I was able to hammer it (scared while doing).

its play in the drive shaft to bush you want to look for

with as much angst it gave you on the other side I would say leave it, you have good lube from the one side and if ZH is correct there are holes for the oil to flow thru the adapter plate already. I can see how getting at that one and having to tear it out could be dicey. I had assumed it was a rubber seal which would be much easier to pull with a hooked pick. Or get a good stiff belt of whiskey and go for it :)

for standard, maybe this? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wis-rcs08600

yes its a press fit, you need to find a socket that fits so it clears the housing but impact on the bush. then you just hammer it out. Once its out you can press in the new bush in. It helps to heat up the alum housing (I used propane, don't go crazy, just evenly heat it up some on the tail) put the bush in the freezer for an hour before time to install, it will go in with some light taps as it is shrunken, and the alum is expanded. You need to pay attention to the oil feed hole that is cast into the housing so it aligns with the hole in the bush. one more thing when doing the heat/freeze trick, you have to work with some sense of urgency to take advantage of the heat/cold, as the bush will quickly heat up and the alum will quickly cool off once you start the process. just make sure that hole stays lined up.

you did not hurt anything the cage is still there, that is what keeps the balls in the race.

Its brutal here, 90f today and that's low for the next 5 months, AC is a must have in the SE.

The drier should be no problem IIRC yours is a simple top fitting type, unlike my unicorn mid inlet top outlet type. Any decent AC shop near you should be able to match up what you have as far as fitment.

http://autoacsolutions.com/products/condensers/1974-1975-1976-1977-1978-datsun-nissan-240z-260z-280z-a-c-condenser/ I would stay away from used condensers. There are aftermarket generic fit types but they would require new hoses, figuring out mounting etc.. if you value your time I would go with a direct fit.

yes on the bush, but get the correct one, Eurodat has the pn in his list, its not the cheap short one that all the shops sell. The rubber should be removed. Will it work with it installed, yes, is it supposed to be there, no. there is nothing to seal between the two sides

I presume A/C mineral oil is A/C mineral oil, so yes I would go with that. Did you source a new condenser? IIRC there was a correct fitment one out there new, expensive but fitment means not having to make mods to get it to work. So you are staying with R-12, good move I have been very happy with my R-12 system. Main thing of course is to make sure you pull a good vacuum and let it set for a while to boil off any water. Check the filter at the engine side firewall connection high side of the evap to make sure its not gunked up. And of course a new drier. Hopefully you have a easy to source one (unlike the 75 model).

ok yul... nice work. Do you free hand that taper? I only have a small lathe all manual controls.