Dave WM

I have heard that a lot about PU bushings, why I bring it up when folks start talking about upgrades to suspension. Really depends on what you what, for me since my plans are 0% performance driving, and mostly long distance trips, I wanted to keep it a quiet as possible. I replaced the OE cat back with the cheapo standard size one sold for something like 80$ delivered. it was a tad long, but other than that an easy bolt on operation and keeps the exhaust noise to a very low level. New window rubber keeps the wind noise out. Its no lexus but its not that far off from one either.

As for the trip, I recall driving one of these (a 1974 260z) when it was new, and my 75 seems to have aged well, It has low road noise, and suspension was soaking up the minor bumps in the road well. The biggest improvement was the new tires, while my old ones looked fine, they caused a wheel shake, I assume it was the tires could have been the rims as I replaced both tire and alum slotted rims with the new tires and steel rims.

I still have the spare engine with the MN42 head. I may after retirement try that one just to see how it goes (just curious and with retirement time is in abundance). As is the engine pulls nicely, so agree, no hurry to mess it up. My goal has been to see how well I could set up for MPG since I like to take long road trips and prefer to cruise rather than blast off.

3.54 stock rear end that was in it with the 4 speed. 80mph at 4k rpm in 4th. with the OD 5th gear Its a bit tall as so I cant really use it until get to at least 65mph (5th gear), would be a problem if I had hills to deal with, as that would make the engine lug even at that speed, but in Florida its flat everywhere. I have a 3.7 spare diff I could install (would prob be a nice upgrade) to make that OD gear more useful around town or on trips to other places with actual terrain to overcome.

ah forgot to mention that, I did replace the intake valve guide seals. I passed on the exhaust guide seals, as I read that they do not account for oil burning. the old seals were "slightly" stiffer than the Nissan OE replacements, the new ones also seemed "slightly" tighter fitting. I get no noticeable smoke on startup. Forgot to mention this is with at least 105k miles, as I owned the car starting with about 85k. Maybe its 205k... If so it has very good compression (about 160-165 psi warm across all cylinders).

Just wanted to document a recent 800 mile trip (central fl to central al) driving at night, mostly AC off about 27mpg, speeds were 55-75 with mostly 65-75. none alcohol gas. a little less than a Quart of oil (28 oz approx. over 1400 miles on the trip odometer set at the last oil change) so about 1500 miles per quart. Temps pretty much right at the E of the temp gauge, guessing this is 175f since that is what I use in the T stat, and it would get there and hold. It will get hotter (so T stat is no longer controlling the max temp) if I drive in the heat of the day with the AC on, then it will get just a little over the middle of the range. this is 95-98f with high humidity and AC on. I think I am going to try the Alum rad I have on the test stand to see if it is able to maintain the max heat of 175f. This also is with the use of a ZX 5th gear overdrive use much of the time (anytime I am over 65 mph). with that setup I get 80mph at 3k rpm. I have the skinny tires at 30psi. They are 185/75 R14 Hankook brand. I noticed after putting this on vs the wider recommended size 195R70 that the car rolls easier. I don't know the effect on MPG with the AC on constant. Overall very happy with the stats, but would like the oil consumption to be closer to 3000 miles per quart (my standard distance between changes). I have good overall compression, can see no signs of oil burning (blue smoke) have no external leaks, so I assume its just the oil control rings letting a bit too much past. the plugs do not present any obvious excess oil, and the book say excess is something like more than 1Q per 600 miles (that seems like a lot) so I suppose from that point of view my oil consumption is not excessive. The oil consumption was based on about 800 miles of the trip and 600 miles of non trip around town (the total of 1400 miles since the oil change). I don't know if highway use vs around town use impacts the oil consumption. lastly oil pressure about 2/3 indicated on a 90 psi max scale after warm up at anything much over 2500 rpm (I would say 90% of the time I am around 2500 on long trips). On a cold engine its more like 3/4 indicated. This is cold as in mid 70's as the cold temp on VR1 20/50 racing oil (high zinc).

thought I did that but will double check.

if I make slow near full lock left turn (coming out of a parking lot example) I get a pop sound that comes from the front of the car right hand side I think, and can feel a release in the steering wheel at the same moment. It seems to happen at the exact same spot on the steering wheel position. it happens every time, but you need to "reset" by turning back straight (you cant just hover over the spot and get the same effect by moving a few degrees back and forth. I tried turning the steering lock to lock with it not moving, no problem. I can turn the wheel fully while stopped and the pop will happen as soon as I start to roll with the wheel fully cranked to the left. I have new ball joints. the left tie rod seems to have just the slightest amount of play in it. I can grab the inner and push pull and detect "some" movement whereas the driver side has zero. the outers have no play at the wheel hub. does a very slight amount of play in a inner tie rod sound like the kind of problem that presents with the problem pop sound I have described?

now I have to check the valve cover.

I got one, thought it was part of the cap, pretty hard, but it def is a separate piece. the drawing make it look wider than it is.

needs correct wheels. Nice looking car.

If you have spark while cranking and the engine does not start, then its likely a fuel issue, Heat soak is a big issue, generally show up AFTER shutting off the car during hot days. I generally open the hood after I get to my location (or even just getting gas). Its a good time to look over the engine, check for leaks, check oil, etc... With heat soak the engine will be difficult to start, a work around is to floor the gas pedal. this will cause the ECU to go into more fuel enrichment mode (assuming it all works correctly) and will help with the startup. This is actually stated in the owners manual. Other issues that cause odd flame outs is low fuel and hard left turns, at least in the 1975 versions. get it below 1/4 tank or less and a sharp turn will slosh the fuel enough to starve the pump, does on mine anyway. Assuming its not heat soak (again this would not be a cause while the engine is running as cold fuel is constantly running thru the rail), you need to diagnose the fuel system. New plugs should not turn black, if they do its rich, could be temp sensor,cold start, ECU, fuel pressure, TPS, the FSM covers this. If its choking out (thick black smoke) after warming up the temp sensor should be checked AT THE ECU connector per the FSM. If it will not restart and you have spark you should next look for injector operation. a noid light or just a long stick touching the injector while you listen to the other end (mech stethoscope is the best way, cheap at HF) you should hear clicking noises while cranking. If not clicking the injectors are not working. possible ECU or wiring from coil to ECU or some other fail. a neat tool is those inline spark checkers, just a neon flash to confirm spark energy is getting to the top of the plug. easier to use than the spare plug routine.

Next time it will not start, have a spare spark plug handy, plug the center lead of the coil to the spare plug, lay it on the strut tower so you can see it, and crank to see if there is a spark. You need to diagnose the issue to spark or fuel before going deeper.

If you have gear oil accumulated in the area where the shifter stabs into the striker rod, then you need the seals. Its not a big deal, if you don't address it now, just easy to do. So odd, I am almost sure my reverse lockout would not bolt in the wrong way, the holes were not evenly spaced IIRC.

possible the edge of the washer (do they go dome size out so the edges are what touch) will grab the weld?

shifter seals what I and I presume Eurdat is talking about they are up around the shifter. Next on the seals you showed make sure you put that front seal on right, open end TOWARDS the oil side. It looks kind of odd and keep up with the shims on the counter shaft front bearing. Use some grease to hold them in place. You may be tempted to pound the front seal into the front cover with the back (closed side) of seal toward the oil, this is wrong.

after you get the bell housing on and before you have the rear housing in see if you can peek in with a light and spin the trans ouput shaft just to confirm you did not knock that gutter loose.

right get those seals and o rings while the rear housing is off.

so for future reference the seam on the back side should be set at 12:00

I think you are good to go. Just be real careful when putting it back together. Have you decided on a sealer?

That pic it the FSM looks like its set to about 2:00 oclock, pretty sure that is just for clarity of what it is, and not the actual orientation. can you tell from the orig where the split was and therefore the o'clock position?

I was in the same boat (broken off before I got to it) so I would suggest you set it so it looks like it will catch sling off from the gear and still upright enough to allow that oil to then have a chance to drain back toward the trough built into the rear housing so a guess would be open side about 10-11 oclock. Don't forget to close the end. Don't worry if its not a perfectly sealed up, but make sure it pressed up solid against the plate to seal the outlet side as well.

progress is good!

Just a guess but I would use some lock tite red on it, let it set overnight.

maybe its been covered, is this a top mount or side mount sending unit?