Dave WM

I thought about it, will think on it some more. Main thing is I have no idea about the techs, and if they know how to work on old transmissions. The way I see it I am a caring amateur, vs a professional, not sure which would be better. I also struggle with the desire to get it right, and the desire to learn new stuff. its tough to decide what is right. Main thing is they would have the right tools, that may be the deciding factor. Might drive by that place we talked about out your way.

added the video showing the grooves in the gears, and some questions about main shaft installation (when I get there).

yes that is what the look like, on mine its 1st and 3rd. I just got a bearing puller and plan to start the tear down soon.

thx ZH that would make me feel a lot better to know its not damage. Just looks to perfect.

Does not look right to me. I would pull it and make sure you have the right bushing. easier to see with the fly wheel off.

maybe not the right terminology, but has anyone else noted a groove that looks very deliberate on the 1st and 3rd gears? I suppose it could be damage but it sure looks perfectly machined in. Its very shallow, and thin, I will get some pictures later. I have searched google images and sometimes I think I see it on other transmissions. its from a CR 280zx 5 speed. I am hoping to start pulling the gears off soon to replace the bearings, in a hope that is the reason I was getting the gravely sound when I did the swap. I have the housings off, and can hear some noise at least from the front input shaft ball bearing (after cleaning it with some solvent to get the oil out). I don't know how much is too much noise.

I think I can tell with a finger nail, turning one way it seems to pull in, will use the magnify glass in better light.

is there any way to know for sure if it right hand (normal) or left hand (CW loosens) on the main shaft? I am back to trying a another crack at my noisy trans will get some pic later of what I think may be the issue. But I am closing in on having to remove that one. I watched the village land guy video, he clearly is working on a later model ZX (can see the reverse lockout mech) and when time to remove the main shaft he goes CCW. I cant see enough threads to figure it out. I suppose trial and error will get me there but would rather just know the correct answer. I don't know for sure but I think the trans is an 81, but that just from what I was told.

it was a stout glass jar seriously I just used it and a rubber mallet. I know what you mean about getting fast at it, 1s time took me all of 3 days, 2nd time I got the process done in about 7 hrs, that was just to pull swap the trans, but the clutch and main would not have added a lot. Having a lift would be great, it takes me at least 30 min just to get all the jack stands in place. For me the key was getting a nice transmission jack and using cut off bolts as alignment pins to get the bell housing on straight. Next time I am going to try separating the exhaust at the back of the cat converter, I noticed an exhaust leak from the bottom of the muffler so it will have to be done anyway. taking it down it one piece is hard by myself.

I tried a round glass jar that fit the seal, but my moronitudeness was I still managed to drive it cocked, with one side in too far, no getting it out from there. The next time I just used a 1X2 scrap and CAREFULLY tapped all around slowing working up to flush with the block. I am getting REAL good at removing seals.

my persistent oil leak. back of pan, around bottom of bell housing I replaced the rear main as part of the clutch/trans work, I hope its ok. Seems like the oil leak is exactly the same as before. I have on order a MSA comp pan gasket, even though I don't know why that would be needed. My pan was fine, I was careful about using the felpro, used some gasket adhesive (not sealant all over, just the kind used to glue to pan) and was careful not to over tighten. So when the new gasket comes in I will take a close look at the side seals. I have read that they can be replaced sometimes with the bearing cap in place. I guess its a case by case basis depending on how stuck in they are. I assume the rubber gasket would use no sealant of any kind? when I get around to trying the 5 speed again (still on the fence about trying to rebuild myself of send out to Midwest transmission, btw anybody use them?) I will pull the clutch and flywheel off and take another look. That is if it still leaks after the side seal and new pan gasket.

Still here, got lucky, no house damage (at least from what I can tell from a quick survey) lost a fence on the back, BIG limb from neabours tree is thru my screen and into the pool, other than that just a LOT of med to small oak tree limbs EVERYWHERE. I don't think I suffered any roof damage, could not see any missing shingles, and no windows or door were breached. It was a scary night. Lot of clean up to do. Never lost power which is good, no AC in central Florida can be tough.

roger wilco.

ok so after thinking on it some more, I am leaning toward just sending it out to be done. I have contacted a couple places, mulling over if I want to learn how to do something and buy a bunch of tools OR just pay the man. I am in this to have a fun hobby, my last attempts were somewhat less than fun, but I may still give it ago. will mull it over the next week, hopefully surviving Irma. I am getting pretty good at the swap process, think I got it down to about 6 hrs start to finish. Would be faster still if I had a lift. I think at the minimum I am going to buy another high lift floor jack. I have one that is only 2 tons but can lift 29". The 2 tons is fine for the light Z. My routine now is to place the jacks on the diff and cross member then jack some on one end, put the stands in place , then the other end. Takes about 2 rounds of jacking and positioning to get it to the final height. If I go for the full rebuild I will at least need some bearing pullers and various spacers to pull the main shaft back in .

me too!

will not last long I bet.

roger S30D

no hurry on doing if for sure, I did order a rebuild kit but it will be here well after the storm. It should be a fun exp rebuilding, something new to learn

back to a quiet 4 speed, nice clutch and hopefully no more oil leak. going to take a break from it for a while.

thanks guys on the kit recommendations. I just want to make sure it is the transmission, if the swapped back 4sp makes the noise as well I will have to look a the clutch (cant imagine that, but I need to make sure). I did a side by side comparison of them when both were out, turning the input shaft by hand while in gear. the 5 speed may have been slightly noisier but only slightly. Of course its a lousy way to compare but while I had them out why not.

just about done swapping the 4sp back in, getting much faster at this. maybe get it done in time to escape if the storm heads this way!

Another lesson learned, I should have noted the sounds they both made when hand turning. I know the 4 sp was quiet in the car, it should be an interesting comparison to get them both out, set then horizontal and give the input shaft a spin. I have never done this before, perhaps a better trained set of ears would tell the trans was bad before going in. Live and learn.

ZH yes that is the one. guess the old chewed up rev idler got to the bearings after all. So the plan will be to put the old back in, buy a full rebuild kit (bearings and syncros) and give that a try. I sure hope when I pull it apart there will be a real smoking gun of a bad bearing, if not I will prob not bother with it. For the amount of noise it seems it would be obvious. I cant think of anything clutch related that could make the kind of noise I am hearing, but when I put the old 4sp back it will know for sure. Give me something to do while the hurricane pounds us.

I wish you had been right.

if it helps any at all I will see if I can get the sounds on a video of a test drive tomorrow, may as well document it.