sblake01

It made sense to me when I posted it. But it could be stated either way. The 75 is the only year that had the catalyst light but they all had floor temp lights.

I thought as much. My original gauge (in the 320) was old and the aftermarket replacement was cheap.

Basically the same thing as the catalyst light; that the catalytic converter is overheating which would also raise the floor temperature. Probably why they only had the catalyst light on the 75.

The factory gauge just stopped working. It was the original and designed for a generator so I really didn't have high hopes for it anyway. The aftermarket amp gauge started smoking!

Just a curiousity based question. When those of you that have 240Zs upgrade to an internally regualated alternator, do you have any problems with the ammeter? In my old 320 pickup, after an alternator upgrade, I fried the stock ammeter and later an aftermarket one. After installing a voltmeter, I never had any further problems.

Maybe this diagram will help. It's better than the one in the FSM though the colors on the relay plugs are different from yours. 1977 280Z Color Wiring Diagram

Yeah, I've seen that. Like I said, I have all of the 280Z FSMs. What I was referring to is the fact that it doesn't show up in the wiring diagram in the 77 FSM.

Strange thing about the 1977 FSM. Were you able to find that relay in the wiring diagram? I couldn't. The 77 FSM shows the same setup as the 78 FSM which has two seperate relays instead of the one combined one and they're under the hood in the relay box. So I looked at the 75 and 76 FSMs and they showed the relay in your picture but with different color wires on the plugs. Hopefully someone who has a 77 will chime in here. As far as that other wire, I don't have an idea what it could be as, like I said, 78s are set up a little differently. What color is that wire?

Will a Z31 auto trans work with a L28? I see those often at the junkyards and their od gear is .686.

Would you expect anything different from the person (who calls the cars 'Dotson') who gave us this thread?, or this one?

It's not that you "stopped once or twice too fully" more that you didn't let the pad/rotors cool sufficiently between stops. I'm no expert but I break my pads in with no problems, if they're good pads to begin with.

After a little more research the 75 actually has two sensors, one on the cat and one for the floor while the later ones have the floor sensor and a low fuel indicator so your cat may be original. I just wouldn't bet on it being good at that age.

Follow up: After thinking about it, the 75's had a sensor for the warning light but that's not a floor temp sensor. It actually senses the condition of the catalytic coverter based on temperature. The floor temp sensors were in the 76-78 and weren't mounted on the cat itself. You should have a warning light on the dash just above the left center vent that says "CATALYST" where as the 76-78 has one that says "FLOOR TEMP".

And don't rob banks. A 73 240Z is pretty easy to identify:).

If you had a cat with a sensor on your 75, it's not original. Even if it was original, which it isn't, a 33 year old one wouldn't be worth anything. The straight pipe might cause emissions problems which you don't have to worry about being it's a 75 but it won't do anything to the driveability/performance.

Well, it is 33 years old.

This is the kid that's 'starting his racing career'. I think he owns a 260Z but that's about all the info he's given here so far other than wanting to buy stuff to make it go fast. It's kind of tough to do anything but guess with that post being all we've got to go on.

Tell us about the rally replica behind it in the first picture.

In 83 there were two different stereo systems depending on whether you had a non GL, or a GL model. Non GL.bmp GL.bmp

We did a thread on connectors a while back. I got the rubber boots from the junkyard along with the connectors. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22929

I don't know, I think they were originally installed by the factory. I have them on both of my cars like the one you described. It's holding the wires that run to the distributor.

I actually don't think there's any kind of set pattern on which way the injectors face. You just want to make sure that they are facing in such a way that you can get the connectors on and off of them easily without interference from the fuel rail, pressure regulator, etc. I also make sure I don't cross the wires when I solder on new connectors but it wouldn't really matter since all the connectors do is complete a ground.

My Kragen (may be Shucks or Checker in your area) has it in stock. Be sure to print out the description from the web site and take it with you because in the stores the prices are generally higher and they'll do a price adjustment if you bring that page with you.

You can download the entire 76 FSM without have to wait for it to be available, like on CarFiche.com by going here.

You can dowload the 76 280Z FSM here.