sblake01

A 77 has a different link for the ignition-efi relay than a 76. It's not easier to switch to MAXI fuses or circuit breakers. Those are just other choice.

If the timing mark is a 0 and the rotor points to #6 I'd say the distributor shaft is not in the right position. As far as checking the advance, you don't blow into the vaccum hose, you suck on it or use a vaccum gun. You'd be looking for clockwise movement of the breaker plate assembly and it should spring back once the vaccum is stopped. If not, and the vaccum pot holds vaccum, the ball bearings beneath the plate need to be lubed or they're damaged/missing.

Find yourself a good muffler shop and have him build you a system.

Rev limiter? I wasn't aware that a 280Z had one. But, seriously, it sounds like it's time to replace the tach.

The simple answer is no. Some dealers did things like the infamous 'Z-Hawk' but there was no factory 'SE' that I've ever heard of. Isn't the SE designation a Chrysler thing?

Doubtful that a new cap and rotor would fix yours..........

The one with the bullet connector is the thermal transmitter. It's for your water temperature gauge. The other two are fuel injection system compononts. The smaller of the two is the water temperature sensor. The other is the thermotime switch. The water temperature sensor is a thermister. It begins with a higher resistance when the engine is cold and decreases the resistance was the coolant temp rises. It changes the fuel enrichment and fuel injection pulse as the engine warms up. The thermotime switch has a coil inside that begins to heat up when it gets a signal from the starter and sends it to the cold start valve, but only when the coolant temperature is below 35 deg. C. and will only operate for a maximum of 8 seconds at which point the cold start valve will close.

If the cap was marked correctly and you swapped the wires by puting #1 where you had it marked and followed the firing order from there, I don't see why you would have had a problem, but, obviously, you did. Hence my statement: Okay, now throw in your 'last word' type comment here as you usually do but my point still stands.

I'm kind of leaning torward that one having experienced it myself on the 810. Have you checked as to whether or not the advance mechanism moves freely?

You had an engine that ran before you pulled the old wires off. Marking the cap with #1 when it ran would have been a good idea before removing them. If you're unsure of things like that you probably shouldn't attempt it unless you like paying 'professional mechanics' to do something you could have done yourself.

On the streets, in magazines, everywhere. Here in California the sky is the limit for tasteless (IMO) paint jobs. But I doubt that our state owns the patent.......

Just a guess but either the distributor drive is off a tooth or the advance is stuck.

Hate to say it because I don't care for either of those paint schemes, but I've seen worse.

What was wrong with your original timing kit? I only ask because over the years, I've found that some aftermarket mods create more problems than they solve. I've often said that Nissan did a pretty good job of building these cars and the best parts for them are most often the original ones.

I took a quick glance through the FSM and couldn't locate where you got that info but that's just one of those things that if you've worked on these cars enough, you'd know. We even did a thread sometime back that showed the correct positions.

Did you replace the arrestor strap?

Take a look at these two scans. I notice that the circuits in question have a fusible link in common. (W/R off the + battery terminal)

I've always used the metric setting to where you could move the feeler guage with just a slight amount of drag. Always worked for me.

Well, that would be tough for me to comment on. Obviously, the two circuits are split somehow in the original diagram, I'd have to look at it to see how, but I'm not at all familiar with the EZ harness.

I'm talking beyond the function of the PCV. What I should have said it that the EFI setup uses this as well as other factors in determining the air/fuel ratio and when you remove the hose and replace it with an air filter, and you'd also have to plug where the other end of the hose was conected, you're changing that input.

B6ES-11 is the factory recomended plug. That's probably what you mean.

It's a bit more complex than that on the EFI cars.

Why would I take offense? I have the correct factory alloys on my Z and 810, not the ZX alloys.

On the EFI cars, I'd leave the emission hoses setup the way they're supposed to be. You will get fumes from an open filter on your 75.

Seems like you've covered just about everything I would check. Make sure that your temperatue sensor is good. Test is as outlined in the EF section of the FSM. Also check your thermotime switch to make sure it not shorted closed (open?) and check the cold start valve to make sure it's not leaking.