sblake01

Actually, it says "Turn off ignition before disconnecting control unit". Just that. You don't need to disconnect the battery. You'll need the power for the tests. Make sure you follow the notes at the bottom of each page in the tests. Another note: those tests are bacally for a 75 which doesn't use about 8 of the pins and IIRC a 76 uses all 35 pins so I'm not really sure how accurate those tests will be for you.

Unless it's a 78 in which case it's in the relay bracket under the hood.

I've said this before but not louldy enough apparently so I'll try this: 78'S DON'T HAVE FUEL PUMP CONTACTS IN THE AIR FLOW METER!!!!! Bob your car is working correctly. After a 78 starts it the fuel pump runs basically from a signal from the oil pressure sender. Look it up Tomohawk. No fuel pump contacts in the air flow meter after 1977.

Play one of the mpegs in this link. This was Datsun's ad back in the day and may help to explain that.http://www.ttzd.com/movies/archive/280_15.html

Do your turn signals work while you're have the intermittent problem with your hazzard lights?

Your hazzard flasher unit is probably bad. The turn signals circuit goes through the hazzard switch but they have their own flasher units. If the turn signals work but the hazzards don't, the hazzard switch itself is good or at least good enough to complete the circuit.

I thought the lock pull moved forward with the introduction of the large bumper 74.5 260Z.

79-81 NA exited on the right side, 82-83 NA on the left, as did all the turbo models according to what I see in the FSMs.

Turnpike gators are not just a Florida problem. They exist everywhere there's semis but maybe under different names. One of them did some light nibbling on the drivers side rear fenderwell of my wife's HHR. Sorry to hear that, Geroge.

Evidentally.

Great deal considering that the advance works. Did the module come with it also?

If the fuel pump is still working it will be fine. Jjust make sure you clean the inlet screen before you reuse it.

I believe that's a 73 240Z/74 260Z air cleaner.

Also, I run my E12-80 (in the 810) at 10 degress and the plug gap at .044. It's EFI but I think the same settings would work fine on a carbureated car.

Looks like a 75-76 280Z distributor. The 77-78 is a similar setup but it has different transistor ignition unit. It's not as easy to hook up as a E12-80 but it can be done. Though I've had no problems with the unit in my 78, I'd go with the E12-80 if I ever did. It's just easier to work with.

You're probably referring to the one being auctioned by my buddy Blake (Blax240). That is a factory replacement 240Z air cleaner. I believe that 11/70 is early enough for that to fit it but, like Arne said, it's not the original.

Here's a couple of 79 ZX exhaust system diagrams, California and Non-California. They're the same as an 81 but my 81 manual isn't good enough for scannig:

That's what I said:

And the name/subject of this thread was........what? You might try Arizona Z Club. They're just north of your location based in Youngstown.

Does it run? Brakes are relatively easy depending on what is needed but the fuel system in the fuel injected cars really suffer from sitting from long periods of time. Being garage kept will definately help with that however. If you have a way of starting it, I'd do that. If it's just a dead battery from sitting for two years, jump it or put a good battery in it and see what happens. $500 would really be a steal if it runs.

You've got a PM.

Z Therapy.

the chaise??? You mean the chassis? Either way I think you should leave the titles alone. Your 82 has a 17 digit vin and that one has an 11 digit vin. Won't work. Swap the good parts into the car with the good title.

Passed traffic school? The couple of times I had to go there was no test. I just had to sit through a boring 8 hour class and they gave out the certificates at the end. IIRC is cost about $15.