Everything posted by Murph
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Brisbane Easter Z Car Nationals
Was the RB26 powered car the one from Brisbane tuning and turbo? There used to be a gun metal grey NA L28 powered 260Z 2-seater around here a few years back, ran some damn impressive time on the track and boy did that thing sound awesome!
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Brisbane Easter Z Car Nationals
What colour was this turbo'd 240Z? Fits the description of a local car. Alfadog and That Ozzy Guy.....if your selling your zeds, can you PM me some more info on them and what sorta money your looking for, as I might be interested.
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Which Hazard Switch for a 1972 240Z?
Cool....that's what I suspected.
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Which Hazard Switch for a 1972 240Z?
Where abouts is the hazard switch supposed to be mounted? For the life of me I can't see one in my zed.
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H4 headlight replacement
My zeds head lights are pretty bloody dim too. Moulded into the front glass it says they are Hella H4's. The aren't aimed properly which is part of the problem, but even if they were they are still dim as. Should the H4's be pretty bright? Maybe the wiring to them is inadequate, therefore not getting the voltage they need?
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WTB: Good condition Datsun 260Z Shell
Sounds good... Sorta over what I can afford since I'd still need to paint it. But we'll see what happens, I may yet get some money because of the damage to my car. I'll certainly be keeping it in mind. Thanks :-)
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WTB: 260Z 2 seater, any condition
Maybe building a space frame chassis could be my thesis project.
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WTB: 260Z 2 seater, any condition
Yeah....this might be wee little bit harder.
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WTB: 260Z 2 seater, any condition
Plenty of theory and not enough hands on as far as I'm concerned. I was doing mechatronics for three years, but I didn't do so well because the electronics side was all theory and I don't apply myself well with purely theory based stuff. I learn well with the hands on stuff, hence the switch to straight mech. There's still not enough though. Btw....at uni now doin some finite element analysis work.
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WTB: 260Z 2 seater, any condition
I'm 3rd year Mech Enginnering....so yeah....not much time on my hands. If I can find a good shell cheaper than repairing mine thne I'll do it, even if it takes longer to do. I can just work away at it bit by bit, and then every now and then get all the lads over and spend a day with four or so of us working at it. They owe me bigtime for all the work I've done on their cars! drunkenmaster: While my car isn't worth that much anymore, I've spent to much on it to sell it cheap. How low would you sell your shell for? (too much I know) Alfa: You can have my zed in exchange for yours! And the C110!
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Major structural rust problem! HELP!
Thanks EScanlon. Just about to ring a few more restoration/body shops around here, we'll see what sorta quotes I get. The repair/welding at the rear of the rails would have been done before what happened to the front sections of the rails. At least the repair at the rear was effective. The welding job they did on the broken front rail was quite obviously (when you see the car) only to hold the rail in place. No effort was made to give it any structural integrity. Looks like my car has quite a history. The bolts and washers coming outa the floor appear to be the way they have attatched my seats! Very dodgy!
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Remove old underseal first?
.....got it back yesterday. Now I'm gonna have to take this photo!
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WTB: 260Z 2 seater, any condition
Thanks Zpeed. Legend! I have a new question now. How easily can you transfer the interior and driveline from a 260 into a 240? There are quite a few differences between the cars which I could see being a possible problem.
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WTB: Good condition Datsun 260Z Shell
Since my chassis is rooted and will cost me an arm and leg to fix, I'm considering the possibility of buying a good shell and transfering all my gear to it. Finding a top condition shell at a good price is a sorta tall order, but it's worth a try. I'd be lookin at paying max of around $2k. Gotta be straight and have very little or no rust. Good paint would be nice but I'm not too worried if it doesn't. Oh yes, and has to be a 260Z 2-seater. If you have one or know of one (even if it they want more than 2k) please forward me the details.
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WTB: 260Z 2 seater, any condition
That would be awesome... Thanks
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Major structural rust problem! HELP!
I'm also thinking about the possibility of finding a good shell and tranfering all the gear from my car to it. Could be alot cheaper than repairing mine. However finding a good shell at a good price probs wont be easy, and it's be a BIG job. Anyone know of a 260Z 2-seater shell for sale?
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WTB: 260Z 2 seater, any condition
Zpeed: I'm very interested. Could turn out alot cheaper than what it will cost to repeair my zed. Can you forward me his details please. How much was he asking?
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WTB: 260Z 2 seater, any condition
How does this suck! We both need each others zeds. I have an almost perfect black interior, but my chassis is stuffed. You have a great body/chassis and nothing else. Only if you were willing to part with yours cheap. And I'm sure your thinking the same.
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Major structural rust problem! HELP!
Would you say the left rail MUST be replaced?
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Major structural rust problem! HELP!
Just got the digital camera back..... New pics at http://users.bigpond.net.au/oceanz/z/zrooted2/ 1. Behind the right front wheel, now with alot of deadener stripped back. You can see the metal is mostly good, but it is fairly bent just above the break. 2. Here you can see how smacked up the bottom of the right rail behind the rear break is. Also the dings and gouges in the floor pan. Again, not much rust in the floor. 3. Another view. 4. Note the rectangular section of the floor and rail (your looking at the rear of the right rail) that looks like it's been cut out and welded again? What's it supposed to look like here? 5. Behind the left hand front wheel. The rail is not broken here, however it and the floor have been smacked up too. Note there is some bending in the metal above the rail. 6. Some rust holes just below the firewall. 7. Rear of the left rail. Again a section has been removed and possibly a new section welded in. What should this look like? Why have these rear rail sections been cut out? 8. View along the left rail. All smacked in. Sorry bout the $^!# pic. 9. Another view of the left rail. So what do you all think now?
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Remove old underseal first?
If the digicam wasn't in getting fixed I'd take a pic of myself in all the gear for everyones amusement.
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Air Dams, Spoilers and Exhaust Fumes
I agree it can't be too healthy. I bought my car 1400km from home, and I had to drive it back with it leaking quite badly. Despite the heat at times we put the windows up jsut to get a break from it for a while. About half way through the 15 hour trip it started making my eye sting. They next day we both had quite bad headaches and I found it was very lethargic (falling asleep by 3pm regradless of how many hours of sleep I'd had) for the next 2 weeks. Not good.
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Damaged Frame Rail - Any Thoughts?
This is pretty much what my left rail looks like too. There are quite a few more dings in it than that, however non have creased the metal like that, and there's no bulge in the engine bay. So....would you say just leave it as is?
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Major structural rust problem! HELP!
Since my -right rail is broken -the left is fairly dented and looks like it's had a section cut out and rewelded at some starge, -the floor pan has some little rust holes and a whole bunch of gouged holes and is dented as I was thinking about the possibility of having both rails and the whole floor pan replaced in one hit. We're talking AU$550 a rail (gonna see if I can have them fabricated cheaper locally) and AU$140 a side for the floor pan, then labour on top of that. Wouldn't it be a hell of a lot easier to just cut the whole bloody lot out, then weld in all new items. It would save alot of hastle -making sure all the sound deadener is removed and the floor is perfectly clean -removing the old rail from the floor -straightening the floor -removing rust from floor and welding in new metal Say if I were to have stripped the interior so it goes to the body shop with a bare floor ready to go, it couldn't be that expensive could it? Or am I just deaming?
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Air Dams, Spoilers and Exhaust Fumes
I found the main culprit in my zed was the tail light seals. Sealed around them with a non-hardening sealant and now the problem is mostly gone.