wheee!

Finished the frame rail support. Finished the welds and cleaned things up. Doesn't look like a lot of progress but it was a couple hours of welding and grinding!

Negative. Just plain old nozzle and fire

You're welcome

Fine. Par it is...

So glad to see you posting prices in Canadian dollars! order coming..

I took the shroud off the tip, cleaned the tip and wire feed plus the nozzle flow holes, then cleaned the shroud and tried again.... problem gone. Not sure if any one thing was the cause, I was just glad I was back to solid hot welds!

I was just providing "alternative facts"....

We're starting to repeat ourselves

I hope they are verrry ......"CAREUL" "careul": a Tunisian verb for altering or dismantling with primitive tools....

That would be overkill and lead to potentially more issues if the harness is not built correctly. I would replace the lines that are damaged, or lines that are undersized. Lines to the battery from the alternator, line from the battery to the starter (if needed), and line to the main fuse block (if you plan on adding circuits). Otherwise, adding a fuse block like the one I pictured above will provide a fused power takeoff for any new accessories.

One of these is an awesome addition....

My 370z for example, automatically kills the AC under WOT.... directs full hp to the wheels, not the AC pump!

Magnetic resistance. Negligible draw under normal load. Loss of hp would be too small to measure for most people. Plus if you are dead serious about power and performance, high electrical draw toys will not be on your build list...

You can mount a smaller pulley to "overdrive" an alternator too. But most higher amp alternators are just the result of better manufacturing tolerances and advanced coatings on the windings. More windings equals more current. Therefore a newer alternator will always default larger due to improvements in manufacturing and technology. Again think of it like a memory stick. 8mb cards were the standard in the 90's, 128gb cards are standard and use the same space on the logic board. Why build 8's when you can make a card 100's of times more powerful for the same cost or less?? Hence larger modern alternators. At some point though, the vehicles draw is considered and there is no point in building them bigger. On our old Z's, with a few modern upgrades etc, I think a 100A alternator should be just fine.

A good Sgt always agrees with his Captain....

I believe that the internally regulated alternator "senses" the voltage drop of the battery and regulates the charging voltage to the battery, preventing overcharging. This keeps the voltage output of the alternator around 13.8v while charging and prevents the battery from draining while the vehicle is running. The field wire is designed to detect the sine wave of the charging come from the properly working alternator (alternating square wave, AC voltage). The dash light illuminates, indicating a "no charge" condition when the car is not running or if the alternator is malfunctioning. The alternator is never connected directly to the harness in terms of charging any electrical items other than the battery. The current is then drawn from the battery through the fuse block and throughout the harness. A larger alternator will have a greater CAPACITY to support a larger load of electronics (bigger headlights, bigger stereo, electrical fans, power accessories...) but it will not force any of the existing electronics and wiring to use any of the extra capacity of the alternator. It will only provide more power when needed versus the stock size alternator. Different size wires in the harness are used because each device draws a different amount of current, some requiring a thicker gauge of wire to prevent overheating. You can have two wires connected to the battery for example, one for the starter and one for the engine bay amp. One is super thick and one is very thin. They are both connected to the same battery but each DRAWS a different current amount to operate. Therefore the wire is matched to the draw of the device, NOT the output of the alternator or capacity of the battery. Think of it as a larger gas tank.... does the same thing as a smaller tank, only lets you go farther! The bigger alternator just lets you consume more power when NEEDED....

Correct me if I'm wrong, but a higher current alternator will not "push" more power to anything other than the battery. The current draw from your connected devices (lights, stereo, fans etc) is set by the device. Therefore your wiring harness is just fine. Decreasing the gauge size (smaller gauge = thicker cable) of the main charging wire couldn't hurt though. Just make sure whatever device you ADD to the car gets the proper size wire gauge and fuse and you should be fine. Background: I am a military electronic/optronic specialist....

Tanks for the laughs...

Looks awesome as usual

Not in Alberta!

Drive north till the milk turns to ice cream... quick before Canada builds a wall!

You're never alone if you're on this forum....

Post 203, Page 9 of the thread (wow that thread is getting big...!) Modified the stock lower alternator mount to accept the GM 10SI 100A alternator. Marked off at 1.78" for margin of error. On the cold cut saw... Ready for drilling out to 3/8ths... Finished after another quick sandblast and final measurements.... More in the blog if you go to that post/page....

Hilarious... I was just working on that as my Tapatalk version goes to the link. Getting the right info as we speak....

Lot's of good intentions here! Congrats on being 16 and owning a Z...! Looking forward to your progress and seeing your passion meet the road.