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Shipping the car by itself from CO to GA ended up costing $850. All of the extra parts, I knew, was going to be a pain. I looked prior to auction close for rental availability and flights, but long story short, flying out, renting a pick up truck and loading it up, and getting all of the parts back to GA cost $1,654.18 and took 2 days (and into early morning of the third). Total with 5% for BAT was $9240, so delivered total of car and parts was $11,744.88. I am keeping track of costs very precisely and will be sharing with everyone as well as time spent (not nearly as precisely). Regarding the direction of the resto, I plan to do a high quality restoration back to stock, except for the following: The engine had pitting on cylinder 6 that was bad enough to require a re-bore. Pistons are ITM - .030 over. Stage I Isky cam which has a higher lift than stock but the same factory duration (won't be able to tell it has a cam from listening to it) Some bigger valves to allow better breathing Zstory stainless header and exhaust Mild porting to make the valves, cam and exhaust work well together 16" x 7" wheels and performance tires The goal I have in mind is to have the car be like "new" back in 1971, but with "upgrades" for exhaust and wheels. Both of those mods will be fully reversible, if at some point I want to sell the car, and a future owner wants to go 100% stock. The car was originally silver, and I am nearly certain I will put it back to that color. I like the factory orange a lot, but I want to keep it the original color. Silver looks nice on 240z's too. ?

I got an itch to acquire another Z last year... This car on Bring-a-Trailer got my attention and I couldn't let it go. A project car, the previous owner acquired most of the important rubber parts, a NOS dash, a bunch of spares, etc. and did very little to it other than keep it stored in his garage in the Denver CO area for over 25 years. Prior to that, it was in Arizona. So, having restored one Z which had a fair amount of rust, I was super excited to think about restoring one with next to none. I've been at it for a little over a year now, and so I have a pretty good amount of the work done. My hope is that within the next 12 months, I can complete the restoration. I've got lots of pics of progress so far, so, I'm also hoping I can post updates pretty regularly. Here are a few pics after it arrived in GA: The previous owner said he never started it. If true it hadn't run in over 25 years, but the engine turned over by hand. Before taking it apart, I wanted to see if I could get it running and then do compression and/or leak down tests to learn of its condition. I power washed the engine to get all of the dust and gunk off. Then I took the carburetor domes off and cleaned the domes, pistons, needles, inside the carbs, float chambers, etc. The "choke" was stuck in the on position (jet nozzles down) and carbon was caked on the inside of the carbs keeping the pistons from moving freely. Here's the engine after cleaning: Here is the clean engine after it dried. The distributor shaft had a lot of play, so I snagged the one from my other Z. Fuel lines were completely clogged, so I disconnected at the hard line coming into the engine bay. Fuel pump was gummed up, so I grabbed a spare mechanical one (once was on my other Z), and ran the rubber line down into a gas can. Oil in the engine seemed like oil, so I left it as is. After a few tries of the starter, I got it fired up. Still no coolant in the system, no radiator hoses, etc. I just did a quick sync on the carbs and got it running well enough to know that nothing catastrophic had happened to it. Here is a video after only a few minutes of tinkering with it. Next, I put radiator hoses on, put water in and other misc. things so I could run it for a while. I wanted to run it for a minimum of 30 minutes so I could do the compression check or leak down test. Here's another video. The exhaust is original Nissan parts (verified part numbers of center section and muffler), by the way... and very quiet. Garrett

Bump: Hood sourced from VA in the 90's is still available: $300 Headlight housings (metal) are reduced to $80 each Fender still available: $250 Ask questions if you like and I can provide more pics as necessary.

pm replied. This dash was sold.

I sold it.

G5930-89902 is discontinued. This one brings up a diagram at this site which is not a 240Z, but still shows it is available: G5930-89904. It may or may not be. I've ordered items from that site that have a price, but turn out not to be available any longer.

Ok, it looks like I have two rights, a left and a spare spring. These were from a four door sedan (my first car - RIP!) Been in storage since 1987. From left to right above (1, 2, 3...) This is 1 - passenger side, all good (2 views follow): This is 2 (note a bolt replaced the pin for the upper mechanism - I never noticed that before and again two views follow): This is 3: (driver side, and 2 views follow) So, you need what, a left, and a right, and the spring? Garrett

Hey, I've got some 510 hinges in a box. Mine came from sedans. Are they the same part numbers? I can take pics for you to see.

I had this dash restored more than 10 years ago I believe. It is a series one from my personal car, made in 12/70. Here are some pics: I've never installed it in my car. I was not 100% happy with the dash when I got it back from Dashboard Restorations. In fact, it was my second attempt with them, but they couldn't get the quality high enough for my needs. However, I am pretty damn picky. So, I sourced a New Old Stock dash for my car instead, and put this one in storage. Here are some more pics and some details regarding the issues I had with it: The hazard and blank opening above. Once the hazard switch is in place, I am sure there will be no issues with the lower opening, but the upper one isn't quite perfect: This curved area on the left and right below the 3 middle gauges has some slight imperfections. I tried to show them as best I could with the lighting and angles of the pics. There is also a slight bit of dye that has rubber off (grey spot). As I understand it, the vinyl used by Dashboard Restorations years ago was grey, and then dyed black. That is easy to touch up. More pics: As you can see, it looks pretty nice. There are a few other things though. The gauges fit really tight. This was a common complaint with Dashboard Restorations dashes. I have had the gauges in before, and they do fit, but they are a tight squeeze. Also, the glove box door doesn't fit quite right in the top corners. The corners of the door lid are sharper (shorter radius) than those top corners for the opening in the dash. And finally a few more pics showing where some more of the dye rubbed off (again - easy fix), inside edges of the glove box (need to be glued down better), and a few bumps (imperfections) on the strip that goes down the right side of the center control panel: Shipping by Greyhound "station to station" is about $120 from GA to CA. You will need to pick the package up at the station, but they typically are open long hours, so it isn't usually an inconvenience. If you are closer to me, it will be less. Fed-Ex is too expensive. Priced accordingly. If you've got a daily driver that needs a dash, jump on this before someone else does. Garrett

For sale are some original 240Z emissions parts which are, of course, discontinued and NLA from Nissan. All of these were taken from a 72 240z around 1997 and has been sitting in a box in my garage. All prices - add for regular Fed - Ex for shipping. Original air pump with mounting bracket (and mount bolts). Spins freely by hand with no noticeable noise. No noticeable play in the shaft. $80 AB-Valve - or Anti-Backfire valve according to the factory service manual. T fitting and 6 OEM hose clamps - you get what is in the pictures. $30 Altitude compensation control: $20

Thanks. I put a lot of bubble wrap in to protect it and hope the new owner receives it in same condition and is really pleased with it over the years.

Update pics of the fender after sandblasting the lower corner. One or two pin holes and some pitting, but otherwise this is very nice. A fender like this saves you lots of time on body work prep instead of one you have to section in new metal, metal work, etc. --> $250 plus shipping Just as fyi - the problem of rusting through in this area on our Z fenders can be eliminated by altering the back support a bit. Cutting out some of the back support to allow debris and water to drain/fall down, instead of getting trapped and accumulating here is possible without materially altering the strength of the panel. Cut the support for better drainage, sand blast pitted area, epoxy prime or other treatment to seal and you're done.

Saw this new dash show up on ebay recently as well. Amazing - there are more of these out there.

Yes, a real shame. But, vinyl is very repairable. Once mounted, with a high quality repair performed, this dash will look the 100% new OEM dash it is, for years to come. I sourced another OEM dash off of ebay back around 2004. It is in my series 1 Z in (pic in avatar) and it hasn't cracked in the 15(?) years I've had it. Even high quality replacements like those from Vintage Dashes do not replicate the OEM one 100%. So, I am thinking the final sale price will be higher than the $800-$900 range. We'll see I guess. Garrett

Hi, That's my dash in the auction. In the box without padding is how I got it, but I will be packing it far better, better supported to keep it from flexing and with plenty of soft packing to keep it from moving around in the box. I got it about 6 months ago... and didn't realize it had a crack until I took it out of the box to take pictures for the auction. Hard to say what caused it, but I think it happened because in storage there was pressure pushing the center console opening wider at the bottom... Anyway, I am doing a restoration and will be going with a Vintage Dashes one - a series 1 style to match the one in my car. If they weren't available, I would use this one instead. Garrett

Bump - and status update: Sold one hatch and I am holding onto the other one for now (I may need it after all). One hood still available $300 (other one is probably sold - I just need to provide a shipping quote and receive payment) Headlight housings (metal) are reduced to $80 each. Fender still available $250. Next time I sandblast some parts (in the next week or so) I will sandblast the lower corner and post pics. I have had good luck shipping large items via Greyhound - much cheaper than FedEx or UPS for large items.

There is no indication of the manufacturer, or a "dot" lable or anything like that in any of the corners? Without it being clean so it can be examined for pitting, windshield wiper marks, etc, I've got to pass. Thanks for your efforts though.

Both new or near new condition and source (etching) are important for the windshield I source for the car I am currently restoring, as it is going to be "frame off" (never have liked using that term)... "every square millimeter being redone" - restoration. However, with windshields being very rare at the moment, that makes the value of yours go up, doesn't it?!

Wonder if Pilkington windshield came from Summit or something else - they never posted...

I called them some time ago and asked about it. The guy said the ones they had have a dark band of tint across the top - not what was pictured. I called them just now and the guy said they are completely tinted all the way through - same shade - of "blue". Aren't the factory ones green? He also said they are made in the UK, they have none in stock and no eta. He hinted as some issues with the agreement with the supplier needing to be resolved. He also guessed at the name of the manufacturer and I deduced that it is Pilkington.

I need a high quality one that looks like factory - not the ones available with the band of dark tint across the top. This is for a near stock restoration. Will spend for the right one in great condition. Thanks. Garrett

Hi, I have a NOS dashboard. I got it with a project car off of Bring A Trailer. Willing to part with it for enough money, but for not enough, I'll need to use it for the project car. Le me know what you'd like spend. Garrett

I have quoted FedEX for a couple of people and it has been expensive. I've heard that shipping by passenger bus (they will put big packages in the storage compartment below) is much more economical. But, I think you are still looking at numbers like $80 for a hatch, maybe less for a fender, probably more for a hood. Charlotte, NC 28208 is 250 miles from me. It makes more sense from a shipping standpoint to get a pallet and ship all the items at once "LTL" (less than truckload) truck freight. Freight shipping would probably be less than $200 for a hood, hatch, fender, and both headlight housings. I am holding onto the hatch with the vertical defrost lines for now, as I may need it for my current project. Just thinking outside the box, I have a sandblaster and potentially could sandblast small areas of interest...

Updating with some pics of the hoods - this is hood #1 from desert climate - not even surface rust inside the front structure. The mounting holes have been slotted by someone which I didn't notice until taking pics. I have come across that before on another hood - it's an easy fix (mig weld and file) - $300 Hood number #2 - acquired in Virginia in the early 90's from a 1972 240z and stored inside since ($300):

Some of the 600+ plus pictures show before and during rebuild... So, some of what you see might not be finished product. That said, I agree that Motorman's is nicer. The record price for a "stock" 240z on BAT won't stand for long.