Carl Beck

Hi Ron: I think it might be less confusing to say; "Peter Brock originally used the Nissan rear spoiler on his C-Production 240-Z's" Then later BRE produced their own version locally. The BRE version did not have the flat spot for mounting the rear deck lid emblems, nor did it have the two molded reinforcing ribs seen on the front of the Nissan spoiler. See image below. The Nissan spoiler had a steeper rake as well. Today, Les at Classic Motorsports has reproductions of the Nissan rear spoiler. He may also carry the original BRE style. FWIW, Carl B.

It creates a lower pressure area inside the car, "relative" to the higher pressure area outside the trunk lid/tail lights. You have to make sure your trunk lid seals are working, seal all area's around the tail lights and make sure the seam sealers in the body haven't dried out and cracked. Past that point you have to have the tail pipe extend at least 1.5 to 2 inches past the end of the bumper. Take a strip of cloth about 3" wide by 12" long. Place it over the trunk lid seals and close the trunk lid on it. Then see how much pressure it takes to pull it out. If it pulls out easily, either your seals are shot, or your trunk lid is adjusted incorrectly. Over the years trunk lids can also get warped, and fail to mate properly on top of the seal. Try that test at several places around the seal. It's pretty much the same on the Z's. On the Z's the rear spoiler moves the higher pressure area behind the car farther back, away from the tail lights. FWIW, Carl B.

Mine bolted to the tail gate - on the outside edges, where the decklid closes over the water drain area - and as I recall, two holes in the deck lid itself - just above the rubber plugs in the lower edge. Water runs in the areas anyway... With the BRE style Spook and Spoiler the Z is much more stable at highway speeds. The rear spoiler also seems to reduce the intrusion of exhaust gases into the cabin. I've had mine on since 72, and so far there hasn't been a problem with rust. I coated the studs in the spook with RTV before bolting the spoiler on... I also have another 72, with only the front Spook.. for the most part it is used to cruise longer highway trips at 75/80 mph. It is fine, but I do notice when passing large trucks, or driving in heavy cross winds, that it isn't quite as "locked down" as the Z with both. Adding the front Spook without the rear spoiler - actually increases lift at the rear, even though it greatly increases down force on the front. If you like the look, I'd say add them both. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi carrott: E-Bay is your advertising window to the world! One of the best "deals" the individual consumer or seller has ever had. Tens of millions of eyeballs at almost no cost. The numbers, size and scope of Classic Car Auctions have been growing for decades in the physical world, remote bidders can link in via the Internet and buy cars on-line. The natural progression is a movement toward virtual auctions on the net. If they can auction Ferraris on E-Bay, we shouldn't be surprised to see a Vintage Z there. It's only good sense. It is estimated that something close to 58,000 people in the US have a net worth over $20,000,000.00. I didn't see figures for people that have a net worth over $10,000,000.00.... but it's got to be double or triple the number that have $20M. I don't believe that a 1% or 2% increase in the unemployment rate, nor a 0.5% negative growth rate will slow many of them down. If anything, people with cash start putting it in hard assets during a resessionary period. Here's $40K you can keep at home and enjoy - rather than collecting 2% or less in a saving account. FWIW, Carl B.

At $39,500.00 its a bargain. There is nothing close in the Classic, Collectable and Special Interest market at anything near that price. 240-Z's have been going up in price steadly for the past 5 to 7 years. 10 years ago almost everyone here wouldn't believe that a 240-Z would sell for over $15K, let alone over $30K. Most here never see a 240-Z sell for over $40K, but several have. We are just now entering the period in the collector cycle, that you will see these cars begin to double in value every couple years. It happens to all cars of this type... Check the prices on 55 T-Birds, 280SL M/B's, mid 60's 911's in #1or 2 Condition. The buyer of this car will look back five years from now and laugh at how inexpensive it was. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Ross: From the pictures that looks like a pretty nice Z. I'm guessing that it may have been originally sold in Canada. That is if the Black interior is stock/original. 99% of the White 72's sold in the US had Red interiors. The Internet Z Car Club (IZCC) has its virtual home on the Web at: http://ZHome.com and I maintain a Classic Z Car Register there for the DATSUN 240-Z's. If you visit the site, in the Left Hand Frame - you will see a hyper-link to "Internet Z Car Club". Hit that and it will take you to a more detailed breakdown of that section. Within that more detailed breakdown you will see a hyper link that says "Z Car Registers". Hit that and in the Right Hand Frame you will find a hyper link to the Classic Z Car Register.. Check to see if your Z is already listed there and if not... ... just fill out the form completely and send it... If it is already listed - fill out the form completely - and in the "comments section" write - CHANGE OWNERS. Note - Fill out the Form Completely. If the original engine serial number isn't filled in - most likely nothing will happen. You can find the original engine serial number on the data tag that is screwed to the inner-fender well, on the passenger side of the car. It's located on the front strut tower. That data tag has both the VIN and Original Engine Serial Number. The engine serial number will begin with "L24-" I happen to have a White 72 myself - and it is a pure joy to drive. You may want to pick up an old beater to drive in the Winter in Washington State.... kind regards, Carl Carl Beck Clearwater, FL USA - but I moved here from Spokane...

Hi Alan: Yes - the "current pictures" including the picture of the VMS article were sent by Rob and I added them to the page, mostly so that he wouldn't have to e-mail large files to interested parties. As a result of the original article on the Z Car Home Page - Bob Pinkowski, did hear from Ted Swanson. Ted was Lothar Stahlbergs mechanic and crewed for the races in 1971. Ted knew Jack Pray as well, and sent in some low resolution scan's, of Polaroid snapshots taken when Jack first brought the car back to the US. I'll add them as well. FWIW, Carl B.

That is true. With Mike's passing the car is For Sale. The current write up on the Z Car Home Page was originally done by Mike - and the current pictures were sent by a friend of Mike's that is trying to help Mike's widow sell the car. http://zhome.com/History/MacauZ/macau240Z.htm As Chris reports his conversation with Mike in 2004 -When it comes to Classic, Colletable and Special Interest Cars - - If it isn't documented -it's an interesting story. Mike never changed his written story - so it is as last submitted. Mike's story seems to be pretty much the same in an article by Vintage Motorsports Mar/Apr. 2008. As Alan has written the results of his research - potential buyers should be referred to them here as well. Any interested party can contact Rob Stewart via e-mail: Rob Stewart rs58a6@bellsouth.net FWIW, Carl B.

I guess it depends - - - - I put the 4.11 in my Z when I was running a slightly mod'ed L24, on racing slicks (A-SR in the old days of auto-x). Years later, as the Porsches increased displacement... I had to go to a slightly mod'ed L28... to have fun with them on the freeways;-) With either the 77/78 or 81/83 5spd. the 4.11 is way too much gear for street tires with my L28... it makes 1st. and 2nd. gear tire smokers... The L28 has so much more torque than the L24 did... if I had realized it before hand, I would have switched to a 3.9 at most. Otherwise you better plan to spend the money on far wider wheels/tires for the street, and be willing to give up decent mileage on the highway above 65mph. FWIW, Carl B.

So at this point - it sounds like NO ONE KNOWS WHERE TO GET A "neoprene valve cover gasket for L-series engines". I'll ask around and let you know if I find a source. FWIW, Carl B.

Wow.. that is a really cheap price. I guess it depends on what you really mean by "rebuilt". New rings and bearings, throw in a fresh valve job and reassemble... you might get away with $1,700.00 around here. On a more comprehensive basis.. pull the engine, strip the block and pickle it, then send it to the machine shop for fresh over-bore, check the deck, replace the oil plugs, freeze plugs etc. Then completely rebuild the head, with new valves and steel seats; most likely new cam kit, add a new timing chain and gear; new oversize pistons, rod bolts etc. etc. New oil pump, water pump, all new bolts etc etc In that case around here your talking $3,500.00 to $3,800.00 at least. As I recall, I spent more than $1,700.00 on parts alone on the last L24 I had overhauled. Personally - I would NOT buy an engine on E-Bay. Spend the money up front and order a stock rebuild from someone like Rebello. Or have someone like John Williams do the work in Atlanta. I'm sure that there are great places in Texas as well. Find someone that has done L series rebuilds for decads and has lots of happy customers driving them over 150K miles.. FWIW, Carl B.

I believe that is because his picture was taken without a FLASH.. If you look at the picture I Posted.. you will note that where ever the FLASH hit the surface directly - it looks more orange. Where their was no direct FLASH the paint looks closer to red. If you park a 110 Red Z - beside a real RED car, the 110 looks orange. If you park a 110 Red Z beside an actual orange car - the 110 looks red. At any rate it was a very nice color on the 240-Z's. FWIW, Carl B.

I think it is very nicely done. I never was a big fan of the First Generation 2+2's. The following generations of the 2+2's were much better done and by the time the 90+ styling came out - it was very hard to tell the Coupe from the 2+2. If Nissan had sold the 2+2 Turbo in the US they could have increased their sales here. FWIW, Carl B.

Interesting.. Last report I had on that car - it was in Duncan, B.C. - engine data plate and original engine missing. FWIW, Carl B.

It is impossible to tell for sure - given different lighting and color on a computer display vs color in the real world. Nonetheless, it looks pretty close with the clear coat in place... This picture was taken inside and with the use of a flash... so the radiator support comes out looking a little brighter, or with more orange. You can see in the darker areas how it looks without so much flash back. FWIW, Carl B.

Now that a friend bought it- was it registered as a 1970 Model Year? How old is the previous title? The reason I ask about the title - is that people are now "correcting" the Model Year on Series I cars - changing them from being registered as 71's to 70's. If the title was issued more than 5 years ago - it is most likely the way it was originally issued. I'll have to update my listings... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Ron: I'm glad to hear you had to turn right... to get onto BECK Rd. Small world... where everything is connected... Carl B.

Here are a couple pictures of the carb's being discussed. FWIW, Carl B.

All man make plastics - most especially of the less expensive type - crumble with age. 37 years is a long time. Someone most likely squeezed it to see if it was still soft - or leaned on it at some point. Exposure to ozone, sunlight etc hasten the decay FWIW, Carl B.

If you look at the picture I Posted - You will see that the two flat pads cast into the engine block have numbers stamped into them. The first one says L24 and the second has a number stamped into it. All "L" series engines sent to the US have these little flat pads cast into them. If someone put a 260Z engine in the car - the little flat pads on your engine should have "L26" stamped into the first pad - and it may or may not have a serial number stamped into the second pad. OEM replacement engines ordered though the Nissan Dealers Parts Department may not have had serial numbers stamped into them. In the picture I posted - you can see the little flat pads - just below and to the left of the #5 spark plug. Just look at your engine...at the rear.. below the #5 and #6 spark plugs... You should see two little flat pads, and they should be stamped with letters/numbers - let us know what they say Carl

Look on the passenger side of the block - just below the rear spark plugs..

Disassembled and panel painted... with PPG... doesn't get any better than that!! Once the body work and paint are finally done - the real fun begins. I hope that during the previous 375 days you were getting the rest of the component parts refreshed and ready to reinstall. Now it's just a matter of finding the other 400 parts you've decided to replace or refresh and getting them ready.... enjoy the process... Carl B.

Hi Jerry: Sorry - didn't mean to drag up old wounds... I would have been sick as well. I did see a full floor pan sold on E-Bay a few years ago... Now in hind sight, I wish I'd have bought it... good luck, Carl

Amazing.... I'd never tried that... One of these days I'll have to read the directions.. thanks Mike Carl

Hi Mike: What is with the "View Single Post"..... I haven't seen that before... Carl