Carl Beck

Yours has the Rotary Style Compressor - - Mine does too - the York compressors took a lot more HP and put out a lot more vibration when running. Besides making it impossible to change the fuel pump!! Over the years most of the original Yorks have been replaced - as the original Air Pumps were taken off. That modification also eliminated the additional crank shaft pulley that the York compressors needed, and which caused many of the crank shaft pulley bolts to come lose... So other than going for a 100% Stock competition class win - - the rotary compressors offer a lot of improvement. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mark: I've seen the ad for that Green 71 before. would hope that for $32,000.00 the car would have the correct hub-caps, if it is indeed a 1971 Model Year example. Has anyone actually seen this car in person? Very few detailed pictures for that kind of money. The picture of the engine compartment - - - leaves me wondering if the Yellow Cad. parts have actually been Yellow Cad plated, or just painted. Somehow they look too much like gold paint... Could be it is just the lighting/picture... but it leaves me wondering? Yes - they really are beautiful cars and the beauty is far more than skin deep. One of the definitions of "Classic" is "of timeless beauty". To me personally, the 67 Ferrari 275 GTB/4 and the Series I XK-E's were also beautiful cars - - - but their more rounded and bulbous curves date them as 50/60's era styles. No question they are serious Classic's... The 240-Z on the other hand is far less period specific... If it had never been seen before, I believe most people would consider it a beautiful design today....... ie. a truly timeless beauty. The other thing I've noticed is that they grow even more beautiful the longer you own them... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Gang: As many of you know, I needed a 5th American Racing LeMans mag. wheel to mount the spare tire on, for the BRE Baja Z. A fact mentioned in the Classic Motorsports Magazine article last Sept.. Seems I've been looking forever !! Thanks to Les at Classic Datsun Motorsports - I now have it. Just wanted to let everyone know, as many of you have contacted me with possible leads.... so the search is over. Thanks to everyone for your on-going support.. Carl B.

Interesting Concept... I left the following comments, although the last one to Mr. Markham should have been marked DO... - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Mr. Markham: If you came to my garage I would hope you would NOT do the following: - tell me what cars you like better than mine (the XK-E) - accuse me of liking German cars because my grandparents came from Germany (home team?) - tell me that the bumpers on my car are being changed by others to look better. - tell the listeners a bunch of misinformation about the earlier cars and instead of letting me tell the listeners about my car. - learn the difference between a Classic Car being restored, refreshed and/or modified. Mr. Santillan: You have a beautiful 280Z and you’ve done a great job of making it your own. Very tasteful updates and modifications that improve your enjoyment of the Z. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Hi Enigma: No - it was a somewhat tongue-in-cheek reply. I should have put some "smiley's" in there, but I was laughing too much as I was writing it. I say "somewhat tongue-in-cheek" as I was serious about the advice to keep a Classic Car - well - Classic; and the associated increase or decrease in its market values. Not to mention the associated increase or decrease in one's net assets over the long haul. I did understand your comment.... and I actually do have a Hemi in the garage.... Just thought we'd stir the pot a little. Mark - you're cleared to land on your own runway.... FWIW, Carl B.

I'll add a little more to what Chris said: ARA and Frigiking were actually Original Equipment Manufacturers or OEM suppliers to Nissan Motors in U.S.A. The A/C Kits were sold though the normal Nissan U.S.A. Parts Department, to the Datsun Dealers. They came from the Nissan Parts System and were sent to the Dealers in DATSUN boxes etc. Later, as Nissan Motors U.S.A. grew - they installed the A/C systems at the Port - prior to sending the cars to the Dealers. This was done with many accessory and special project items. Why the ZCCA judging rules allow the A/C units and not all Factory Authorized Accessories is beyond me - Must have been a political decision to favor some members. FWIW, Carl B.

I thought I was logged into the Classic Z Car Club.... isn't HybridZ at another site? "Put a Hemi in it" - - - Are you kidding me? #1 or #2 240-Z's going for $35 to $40K today. Only twenty thousand or so Series I cars delivered to North America going on 40 years ago.. 1964 Pontiac GTO's = 32,450 how many do you see today? 1965 Pontiac GTO's = 75,352 how many do you see today? 1966 Pontiac GTO's = 96,946 how many do you see today? 1967 Pontiac GTO's = 81,722 how many do you see today? 286,470 total - - how many do you see today and what do they cost? About 155,000 240-Z delivered to North America 1970, 1971, 1972 & 1973.... . A year out of this recession and you'll see #1 Series I 240-Z's hitting $65K+... Lose your job during this recession, have serious and expensive illness etc etc - and you'll wish to hell you had kept that car perfectly stock. "It's your car do what you want" What kind of advice is that??? I feel that I should do whatever I want - I'm 64 and I don't have to worry about the next twenty or forty years of my life. I'm retired so I don't worry about losing my job. The house is paid for and there's enough money in the bank to feed me for the next 30 years... I SHOULD DO WHATEVER I WANT. If you can't say the same - then my advise is control your emotional urges and use your brain. You bought a Classic Car that will appreciate in value over the coming years. Keep it Classic and enjoy it for what it is. You want a street rod, buy a far cheaper car to begin with... better still.. buy one that is already modified to suite your taste and let the last owner take the loss in value.. To answer your original questions: - Yes a cheap paint job will hurt the market value of the car.... that's why you got to buy it for $9K to start with. It it were a solid #3 condition car it would have been $18K. - Upgrading the suspension - as long as you don't lower it etc. won't have any adverse effect on market value. As mentioned previously - bolt on items - that can be easily returned to stock - won't hurt the market value of the car - as long as YOU put everything back to pure stock before you try to resell it. Future values are always a guess at best - but the car should appreciate in line with others in its class. A car in that same condition five years from now will most likely be in the $18K range. Work on refreshing it properly with a high quality paint and body job... make the engine compartment sparkle, clean the undercarriage and suspension components... and bring it up to a solid #3 car and five years from now it will be in the $24K to $28K range. Five years from now - perfect #1 or #2 Condition show cars will be in the $55K to $65K range.. I think the 240-Z's will follow the trends that the 55,56 &57 T-Birds did in the 70's, 80's and 90's... A very nice small Bird will be $75K today and a #1 example will set you back $125K. Just my perspectives based on all the stupid things I did over the years.... FWIW, Carl B. BTW - I have a Hemi sitting in the garage if your interested...

Hi Zak: I'm sure there were Canadian Ports of Entry - but I don't have a list of them. Carl B.

If you look at the rear cross-member in the sub-frame - you will see that area is thicker/wider ie it sticks down toward the ground about 1/8 to 1/4 inch - it spans the area cut out of the deck floor for the spare tire well. Adding strength to that cross-member there may have been done to strengthen the rear deck floor, or to add strength for the additional weight of the gas tank strap..... but it becomes a logical place to tack weld the rear panel down. They also reinforced the other side to hold the gas tank strap on that rear cross-member. I would guess... Carl B.

Hi Gary: Datsun Ports Of Entry as of 1972 Los Angeles, California San Francisco, Portland, Oregon Seattle, Washington Houston, Texas Baton Rouge, Louisiana Jackson, Florida Newark, New Jersey Baltimore, Maryland A Datsun first in motor vehicle transportation was the shipment of 308 cars direct from Yokohama to Anchorage, Alaska in May of 1972. It was the first time that any manufacturer has sent cars to Alaska in this way. - - Rae FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Guys: Thanks .... So far, in the lower cost trailers they all seem pretty standard.. 16" on center floor and wall supports two 3500 lbs leaf spring, easy-lub axles with electric brakes and 15" tires I beam platform construction or boxed channel 3/4" plywood floors, 5/8's plywood sidewalls, landu ceiling Rear Ramp door with spring balance 36 or 48" side door roof vent DC light standard electrical plug for tow vehicle hookup standard front screw jack on the front hitch standard lights front stone guard - some have front edge guards (aluminum) Some have an extra 16 "flip extension" on the ramp door Some have 4 5000 lb tie downs in the floors Of the above types - the lowest price "advertised" is $4095.00 with a $200.00 fee for delivery to Tampa Florida. When you start getting into things like: Aluminum floor and ramp door 15" radial tires with mag wheels Full vinyl linings (all white and pretty inside) Additional tie downs on the side walls riveted seams rather than screwed torsen axles rather than leaf springs the prices start to push way up over $6,500.00+... Major Brand names like Pace and Hallmark seem to be trying to hold their premium prices... but some dealers indicate that they are ready to DEAL... As I said - I'll only be carrying about 2500 lbs.. and very rarely... so I am looking for something that I can buy right - so I can easily resell it later - and that means pricing it down even more to move it fast. keep an eye out... thanks, Carl

Letting a thread die due to a lack of interest, and killing it because someone else wants to - are two different situations. Personally, I agree with letting the thread die if and when everyone contributing to it, or wishing to follow it, does so. Honest questions as to the motivates of any Post or Reply should be allowed and answered. That should not be carried into personal arguments or individuals attempting to moderate the discussion when they weren't ask to do so. If honest questions were ask and answered - they shouldn't have been deleted. FWIW, Carl B.

I agree - the Subject of the thread is clearly marked and I fail to understand why people no longer interested in following the details - don't simply quit following the thread. The details are important to understand and educational for people new to the community. This is a very good example of what drives the "value" and the "costs" of different examples on the market. FWIW, Carl B.

I'd love to rent one when needed... but... Can't find a place around the Tampa Bay area that rents enclosed car trailers. Maybe it's a business I should start. Of course the legal liability might be a problem. So I'd have to go around and steal several, then set the business up under an assumed name... maybe combine it with an escort service..

During my original experience - after the Z was stripped and repainted - I mounted the new hood emblem using the steel clips. On the first highway trip - while passing an 18 wheeler - the emblem lifted and blew off at about 80 mph. When I returned home - got another emblem - Thinking that I must have done something wrong the first time - I put the second one on more carefully, but using the same method..... da... On the next road trip the same thing happened. Double da.... What the hell was I thinking??? The third emblem - I installed using Permitex RTV. I coated the studs, and filled the holes. That was years ago - and I really can't remember if I applied extra RTV to the center of the emblem or not... As the years passed - I started using the Automotive GOOP where stronger adhesion was required. Properly applied it is amazingly good STUFF. The 3M emblem adhesive is also very good, as is the double sided tapes. The problem with the tapes, is that they can hold the emblem too far off the surface is you have to stack too much up, or will not hold as well if you can't press them down securely. I like the GOOP because you can put a fairly large/high bead on the emblem - press it down to its proper mounting height, and wipe off the excess if any oozes out from under it. FWIW, Carl B.

Another good reason old cars should not be crushed by the Government.

Hi Gang: I'm going to have to buy an Enclosed Carhauler..... I really hate too... as I only need it once or twice a year... Nonetheless, anyone know of an 8.5x18 or 8.5x20 footer that is for sale very slightly used - and somewhere close to Florida? Looking to spend around $4K... as new one's are really inexpensive now... FWIW, Carl B.

OMG - I've lost a DAY!!.... and I must have missed Church also... As I recall - the OEM pipe size on the 240Z was closer to 1 5/8 inch.. like 40 or 41mm. In the US the closest standard exhaust pipe size would be 1 3/4 inch. But then he may have been asking about his 280Z... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Mike: Yes - I believe that one of your "members" is ME. I posted that article on "the Z Car Home Page" http://ZHome.com in 2003 and it seems to have been copied without permission, and to add insult to injury - nor without attribution to the source. http://ZHome.com/rnt/Scarab/Scarab.htm I now see that same person copied more than one article from the Z Car Home Page without permission and published them without attribution to the source. I'll notify the Club Officers and request that they honor our Copyright ... FWIW, Carl

What Z are you asking about???? Tomorrow is Sunday - is that shop open on Sunday?

Hi Marty: Yes - that one would be correct for a 01/71 Model. We would need to find a copy of the window sticker for a 240-Z with a VIN between HLS30 04800 and say HLS30 6900. AIR - Nissan did replace the original Black/White Windowstickers with the newer Colored one's at some point during the 1970 Calendar Year... but I don't recall the specific month that they made the change... Anyone have a window sticker from that period????? FWIW, Carl B.

Yes Carl B.

Hi Mike: Your right - I was going from memory there... it was Wick's car... The very early cars didn't get the tinted glass, nor rear window defroster. As cars started coming through with those items - Nissan had not changed the window stickers yet... So the Dealers being driven to increase the profit per unit - added them to the window stickers and charged the customers for them. I actually have TWO different window stickers for my first 240-Z. HLS30-1777. The first one has a bottom line of $3526.00 plus $75.00 shipping for $3601.00 and the second one has Tinted Glass $30.00 and Back Window Defroster $40.00 added in - for a total of $3671. The Dealers had about 18% GROSS Profit in the Z's, and they were very limited per Dealership. $3526.00 - $2,988.14 = $537.86 Take the cost of pre-delivery prep. the interest on the floor plan, the salesman's commission and other handling costs out - and the Dealers were left with a net profit of around $300.00 per unit. So adding $70.00 to the early units, along with body side molding, mag wheels, pin striping, undercoating etc - and it was possible to almost double the net profit per unit. You will also note that the early window stickers don't mention "radial tires"... So when the Dealers put the Mag.'s on, they listed the package as Mag Wheels with Radial Tires... and added anywhere from $495.00 to $650.00.. (for mags that cost them less than a hundred per car).... Note that Wick's car was also charge $30.00 for "Local Freight"...

"Silicon" and/or the man made "silicone" products are only one ingredient in any particular end use product. Don't confuse RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) synthetic rubber products - be they silicon based or not - presented as Adhesive/Sealers with Silicone Cements/Adhesives. In the case of the RTV Sealants - the "adhesive" part means that the RTV itself adheres to the surfaces that form the interfaces needing "sealing". RTV's vulcanize when brought to room temperatures and exposed to air. They are NOT glues nor cements intended to strongly bond two different parts together. The products such as Electric Products Inc. produce - by the brand name of Automotive GOOP, Household GOOP, Plumbers GOOP are silicon based Adhesives/Cements. They ARE formulated to bond things together, while remaining pliable over their lifetime. They dry by evaporation of the solvents that keep them semi-liquid. So far, I haven't found anything that stuff won't bond together with a very strong bond. FWIW, Carl B.