sawilliams

su carbs:classic:

hi everyone....i have fake centerline type rims with fairly generic rim caps that have the logo " spirit of america" on them. i lost one and cant find them anywhere. does anyone know who made the fake centerlines or anything about the rim caps. thanks. steve:classic: :classic: :classic:

thanks all---ill take all your info and work on it tonight. thanks for the attachments too. steve:classic: :classic: :classic:

could you guys please help. iv'e lined up the timing marks and installed the dist at tdc. it sparks and times properly. the only way to get it to run is to turn the dist 1/4 turn--and then it runs cruddy. when at tdc and aligned the points are completely closed because it is on the flat part of the dist rotor-am i missing something other than sleep. thanks .steve:ermm: :ermm: sawilliamsmontreal@hotmail.com

THIS SITE HAS PROVIDED ME WITH AN UNBELEIVABLE AMOUNT OF HELP . TECH STUFF, HINTS AND PLACES TO GET WHAT I NEED. THANKS, STEVE

thanks guys for your replys. its just that i cant get out the busted one that is in there now( only the housing is left) and i want to run it for a little while before i get into a whole engine rebuild. at that point i can drive it out from the inside. i just didnt want to blow it up. MAYHEM---is the oil filter case the exterior of the oil filter or the part of the block where the oil filter seats. -----and reving it cold ---is it common or rare for it to blow. FYI you can buy 1/2 and 3/4 inch easy outs at a plumbing store ( i did ) that didnt get it out----so i think ill wait..........THANKS AGAIN EVERYONE. STEVE

beandip---im talking about the 1/2 inch size housing--that houses the ball-- that is within the diameter of the oil filter. oil is going around it at all times and then it opens at higher oil pressure. im thinking it opens a passage way right back into the block. so why not run the oil through there at all times. im talking motorwise functionality----not what it may or may not do for all the sensors and stuff for smog. i guess im asking ---why do z's have this there. its my first encounter with one. please help. thanks. steve:classic:

my oil pressure releif valve is half there--the outer part only--and so far impossible to extract. im thinking of running without it. my question is---is it for smog only????i understand crankcase pressure, but is it that critical for a daily driver. thanks all. steve:ermm:

ive been on a serious search for a timing marker and cant find one. they have been discontinued for years now and there are no more in stock. ive had nissan run parts locater searches in the u.s. , canada, and mexico. ive also scoured the local junk yards and called numerous z parts shops. its for a 1971 240z, but the single point marker was unchanged until late 1973. the single point or the one with the degrees marked on it is fine. if anyone has any ideas id be very grateful . thanks all. steve -----also does anyone know if the position degree of the single point marker would be accurately represented with the multiple degree marker (i.e. interchangable), since there off (i think) early 260's and 280's. :classic:

i have the standard cookie cutter mags that are on alot of z's that i see and i would like to put rim caps on em. does anyone know who made these rims and if there are available caps. there the standard 4 spoke clover leaf type.:classic: oooooooohhhhhhh shiny toooo:stupid: thanks steve

this is clearly the most helpful site ive ever run accross. steve:classic: :classic: :classic: :classic: :classic: :classic:

ok---right----got it. ive just never heard it called a collision before. but--ya---float a valve and you got problems. steve

huh

well-----what you described is the whole learning process. sounds like you learned alot in a couple of nights. out of curiosity -------what on earth is a valve/piston collision. steve

thank you----steve:classic:

:classic:

WHOOOOOPS Z SORRY

guys----this may not be the right forum for this---but------i cant figure out how to get one of those little pictures---like racer x ---can you help please. thanks steve

thats good info to know-----ill keep that in mind and keep on lookin. :classic: steve

i dont want to sound pompous-----just asking,should you need help---do you know how to make the distributor not backwards. steve

there in lies the problem. part of my asking people in the know at this site is because i found out what the manufacturor requires and it is no longer available from the factory. ive spoken with numerous parts guys at nissan----and theyve all told me -----20w and we dont have it -----and cant get it. i want a comparable 20w that is suitable.----for a multitude of reasons it needs to be 2 things---20w and non foaming. ANYONE please correct if im wrong but ive read many times in motorcycle magazines that atf is 7w , ----the perfect fix for those wanting to dial in their shocks between 5w and 10w. atf is non foaming. ------im just looking for something that will work. if 20w shock oil is cool-----then that do it. thanks . steve

i agree -----process of elimination. also---i like toast.steve:stupid:

i like the look of the scale ones too and will get on----the marker is just a quick fix now so i can set the timing to get her runnin. im really not that familiar with the advantage/disadvantage of smaller vavles. can you give me the scoop. thanks. steve.

i got the arrow one because that was the only one listed for 70-73 240's----------- sept of 73 the plate changed. but he didnt have a pict of it. the guy said the 260s and 280s of those early years are where ,if i want, i can get the plate with multiple degree measurements. just for now i got the sigle point marker------cause i had to order it----plus i havent even looked up where to set the timing -----and the details of switching them can wait just a little. it was actually 1.12 and they have the one with the degrees on it for 2.50----ill just take one step at a time for now so i can move on to something else and get her runnin asap . ive got an e31 head -----there the high compression ones arent they. ive heard theyre good. thanks again for your help. steve