emptech

Don't have an answer but am working on the same thing. I have Bruce's dvd, but there seems to be a flaw in using a gage like he does. I machined a gage, my bowls over-flowed. I ended up machining a barb fitting that goes in the drain hole (like Bruce sells) and used a plastic tube. I've found it is a "cut and try" process, when I had the level right, the gap between the rim of the lid and top of the float wasn't anything near the .55". I just bent things to make the 23mm of fuel level to come out right. Took several times. I also found that often the float would hang up on the sides of the bowl. I took the over-flow barb off and inserted a small piece of wire to make sure the float was free and not catching. I couldn't figure why my bending of the tab wasn't changing the level, the float was sticking on something. Now I keep the four screws loose, wiggle the lid until I know it is free then tighten the screws. Finished one carb tonight, will finish the second one tomorrow. I bought new bowl valves from Bruce, but they aren't the ones like in the video with the balls. I have to wonder if that's why my measurement of the bowl height is different, did he change valves? Incidentally, I'm using Tygon F4040 fuel line, gasoline proof. Clear and very flexible. Jim

I'm assuming those numbers on your feeler gages are metric? I don't have a mic handy, about how thick is aluminum foil? But like others have said, if nothing has changed, debris under one or more of the other cam towers? I'm sure you marked your towers with something like a center punch, one tick for #1, two ticks for #2, etc. If they all got mixed up, how about trying different orders until you get one that fits right, not the right answer, but might work. It worked for me one time when I had my head milled and the towers didn't line up, swapping them around worked. Jim

I've pulled my 2.4l and 4sp man xmission out separately and together, only problem is getting the shift lever in and out of the hole in the tunnel, just takes patients, I've even done it myself without a helper, yes, can be done. Jim

I don't think the oil in the su's is the problem, it is there to cause a time delay on how fast the slides react. I'm thinking that you may have developed a vacuum leak somewhere. I'm sure there are other possibilities, lack of fuel pressure at lower rpms from a fuel pump problem not filling the bowls, but I still would look into the vacuum issue, like a broken hose somewhere. Jim H.

This is probably not your problem but years ago I greatly overheated my engine. My head was warped like a banana. The machine shop had to surface both sides of the head in order to make it true. That brought the cam towers down a bit. I found that I had no clearance like you have. I ground the valves to make up, seemed like a good idea. Next problem, the valve lash pads would hit the keepers (can't remember what they are called) on the ends of the valves instead of the ends of the valves. Couldn't have that, so machined a tool to hold the pads in a lathe and used a tool post grinder to shorten each valve lash pad. Solved my problem. There were other problems, since the timing chain essentially got longer, I had to machine an extension for the chain tensioner piston. Down the road I eventually bought a new head at the time when I replaced my 2.4 with a rebuilt 2.6 block. Jim H.

I have a couple questions, why would you want to run e85 in your engine? I have a 2009 Suburban which runs flexfuel, pump gas or e85. I used to use e85 quite a bit and found no advantage to it. My mileage dropped, my horsepower dropped, and cost-wise, for a cent or two per mile less, had to fill up more often, and less pick-up. The price in my opinion is a scam. As the gas prices go up, the e85 price tracks right along with it, although it contains up to 85% ethanol. The gas part, even if it doubled, shouldn't raise the overall price of the fuel that much. I'm totally convinced the numbers are artificial. I was lead to believe the problem with the rubber had to do with methanol, not ethanol, am I wrong? Pardon me for jumping in here, couldn't resist. Jim

I found one on ebay for $140, have no idea if that is a reasonable price or not, I recall seeing older sales of around $40 - 50, or am I dreaming? Jim

I'm upgrading my flat top carbs to round top on my 260z, looking for a 240z air cleaner box, anything still out there I can purchase? Thanks - Jim 72 240z original owner 74 260z 350z