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A-pillar problem


Werup

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Hi guys,
 
Im having some trouble deciding what to do with this situation.
 
The pictures I have attached are of the inside of the A pillars LH and RH side. As you can see not much rust there :) Only minor surface rust, but this area is not easy to reach, so im down to two options:
 
1. Use light and penetrating oil as rust inhibitor with long slim hose - possible to clean the outside up if it runs.
 
2. Use the long slim hose with a spraypaint - not sure of how that would end up?
 
I worry that the paint way will run on the the pretty yellow paint, which would be a shame. But ill definitly have to do something, since the car is going to drive in Denmark. What have you guys done to the A pillars inside?
 
Sorry for the picture quality, cheap endoscope camera :) But on the tablet it was clear that there was no rust other then the surface corriosion on the pictures.

LH A pillar (2).jpg

LH A pillar.jpg

RH A pillar (2).jpg

RH A pillar.jpg

20150916_073642.jpg

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Eastwood Internal Frame Coating

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html

  • Tough phenolic resin penetrates, converts and encapsulates the rust on the internal surface
  • Zinc phosphate seals it to prevent future corrosion
  • 24"-long tube with conical nozzle reaches in to spray coating in a radial pattern for complete coverage
  • Aerosol covers 10 sq. ft., qt. covers 50 sq. ft.
  • Fully cures in 24 hours

US $18.00 per can.  For your small-ish job, one can should be enough.

The features of this product that make it attractive are:

1. Zinc phosphate content helps to neutralize whatever rust might already be there, while the resin base seals off the surfaces from exposure to air and water

2. The applicator is a long, skinny tube with a special, multi-directional spray tip on the end -- perfect for what you want to do.  I found that the tube had an undesirable curvature that made the tip scrape against one wall of the structure, so I heated it with my heat gun and then flat-rolled on my workbench using a spare piece of flat 1é2`plywood.  The tube straightened out very nicely and held its new shape.
3. Cures to a dry surface (unlike wax-type cavity sealers), so won't trap dirt

Practice the application first, so that you can execute an nice steady 'pull' for even, run-free coverage.  Be careful not to snag the tip of the spray wand on a lip inside the A-pillar, since you will then be holding a 'live' spray can, pointed at your pretty yellow paint.  In face, some judicious masking around the top of the A-pillar might be a good idea for just this reason.

I wish my Z looked as nice as yours.  Keep us posted on your build.

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Eastwood Internal Frame Coating is a great product, but is very thin when applied and seems to end up everywhere.  It will leak through the smallest of pin holes and make greenish spots on your yellow paint if you are not very careful.  I did not try to clean up these "leaks" when I sprayed it so don't know if a quick wipe will remove it.  I have not completed stripping my car yet even to get to primer.

Perhaps a wax based sealer would work better for you.

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If your yellow is catalyzed paint then you should be able to use lacquer thinner to clean up any areas that leak out, but I don't know if that will completely do it. It does tend to stain some. Eastwood would be my choice too

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