70z4fun

Good point, I may not of noticed the Ammeter reading negative while driving ( operator error ) but as I recall, it was not in the positive area after I jumped started it. I did replace my cigarette lighter many moons ago with a USB charger that had a green hue to it. I think I might replace it with something like this, since I can charge things and see what the battery voltage is. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZRRK7ZZ?smid=A177NFKYPJ1LIQ&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp&th=1 I use a similar thing in a boat, nice to see a digital voltage reading. I am correct in thinking that if the wires were bad at the ammeter, the car would not run? I have not seen issues with that gauge in the past, but do they fail?

I did check out the other four circuits that I did not hook up yesterday, they seem fine. I will get a picture of the diode plastic melted on Thursday. Tried it again today, and got over 14v at the battery and at the output terminal of the alternator. I wiggled things and did not see a difference. Might remove the output wire on the alternator to see that is frayed or loose...... Also might look at the battery negative wire to the firewire, thinking it might install a threaded post there so that it's a good ground.

Ok, got it back together Check for continuity between the alternator output post wire and positive battery cable, which it did. Started it up, and got 14.8V at the battery........ so that's a good sign..... I did leave off the positive wires for the circuits that were hooked up to the positive battery cable: Headlight Relay Upgrade Parking Lights Relay Upgrade Driving Lights Stereo I will work and check those circuits this week. I suspect now that either the alternator was/is flaky, or one of the wires coming off the alternator might be flaky. I will start it up with and wiggle the wires with a meter connected. Not sure if I am happy or confused....... Any other advice on what to check?

Good advice, just got home from work, will go put the alternator in. I assume I should see continuity from the alternator output wire to the positive battery cable? Will check that before I hook up the battery and see if there is 12 volts on the "T" connector with the key on.

ok, that was my next question, is the ampmeter bad? But the car does run and start, so I can eliminate that? What about the two big wires that have connectors by the fuse box?

I did get the alternator checked out atNAPA, tested good,,,,, so will put it back in the car. Is there a fusible link on the charging system? I will test for 12v at the t connector when I get back together. Gives me something to do on Tuesday after work. Thanks for the advice….

@SteveJ Ok, tested it with the current diode plug Here are the results: With Positive going to ballast resistor: With Negative going to ballast resistor Will get the my current alternator checked out Monday, and I will check the one I had on before I got this one. Did not find the other diode plug that I had as a spare, but will look for it on Monday. The "new" is slightly melted the white plastic on top

@SteveJ Cool, will go try that later tonight..... Thanks for the information............

@SteveJ Thanks for the information, I am going to go retest and make sure I got it right. I did check the diode plug with a meter, and it looked right. I think I have another diode plug too, so will try that and see if anything changes. So to make sure I am right, I should have the positive on the ballast resistor and the negative on the alternator plug and should get close to "0"? Am I correct that there is only one fusible link coming off the starter that feeds the car on the early z? For some reason in my brain I thought there were two..... not sure what that would be for........ Will get the alternator checked on Monday, since I have it out. Then reinstall........ THANKS so much for the information and quick response.......

Here is the reading with the leads switched

Correct, the battery is disconnected. Here are the readings, but I did both high and low settings...... With the Positive lead connected to the ballast, here are the readings:

ok, will check that out, since I have already pulled the alternator, took a whole 20minutes........ I guess I can check to see if there is continuity from the battery terminal to the "T" connector? Is there a fuse inline somewhere? I know there is a fusible link come off the starter..........

Thanks for the replies...... I did let the battery charge overnight, and it is reading 12.8V with the meter. Tested it with my harbor freight battery tester, and it tested at 750 cold cranking amps. I pulled the Diode plug and tested it with a meter, it looks correct, shorted on the two pins, and diode tested fine on the other two pins. It does look a little melted on the top of the white plastic top... When I start up the car, and at different revs.......the battery voltage stays constant, so thinking no output on the alternator. I might yank the alternator out tonight and take it to Auto Zone and have it tested.........IF it's bad, I wonder how Motorsport Auto will deal with the warranty, it there is one......... So, do you guys go looking for a new alternator or roll the dice with a rebuilt one?

So, earlier this year I replaced my alternator and diode from the Z store ( 240z Alternator Upgrade with internal voltage regulator) I have been driving it on and off all summer and fall. Today I took the car for a drive in a light rain, with the wipers and headlights on and made a couple stops in town, started no issues. Drove home about 20 miles and got to my driveway and turned off the car so I could put it in the garage, but left the lights on. Went inside and grabbed a set of keys, came out and the car would not start. I had to jump it..... I did noticed the blinkers were slow when I was coming home,,,,,,, The AGM battery tested fine a few months ago and it's "sits" with a trickle charger on it....... Thinking the Alternator might of went? Battery went bad ( it is 3 years old)? Before I dive into it, I thought I would ask for advice..... It seems odd that the rebuilt alternator from the z store would have gone bad? Before I pull it and have it tested, has anyone had issues with rebuilt alternators? Any advice is appreciated.......

Yep, the bubbles "were" there, and now they are gone, as I grinned out and filled the three small holes on one side and one hole on the other. Not a professional long term fix, but I hated seeing the bubbles, and wanted to show it at a car show, that was today, so now I have black rockers.......

My 240z is not really silver, it's more of the silver blue Porsche color. That's one of the reasons I want to repaint it, besides the fact that the paint is 25 years old..... the guy that painted it last time, didn't want to do silver because it was difficult to do right........

Thanks for the notes and responses. I am located in Central Oregon, which I know is limited in services. But will there are a few high end restoration shops around...... Paint is good enough for me to do a small car show this weekend...... here is a picture with the other wheels and tires.......

So, I have this series one 240z that I should start to think about painting..... Last paint job was back in 1995, and the hood was repainted in 2010. The car looks fine from a distance, but I have been hit by foul balls at a softball game, scraped a few times when unloading out of the hatch, etc...... I have "some" rust ( I think they all do by now) bubbles that have shown up over the years in the lower fenders, rockers and well arches, but nothing too crazy... at least I like to think that. Last time I painted it, I took it all apart and took it to a local body shop and they sprayed it, and I put it back together. Went ok, but wondering what I should do this time. MOST of the body shops I talked to locally won't touch it unless it's an insurance claim. I get it, no one wants to go down a rabbit hole with an old car........ when they can make money working on stuff that insurance will cover. I would love to hear from those that have had there car painted, I want to take it back to original silver, as the motor compartment is correct original color. I don't think I want to do a bolt off restro on it, that might be for the next guy that has the car...... Any thoughts or advice is appreciated. Need to start thinking of a budget for this project.........

Interesting, so where on the series one car is the flasher relay for hazard? I see the one under the steering wheel, don't see the other one........ Does the "accessory relay" control the heated glass?

So finally got around to replacing my rear struts. I did notice that there was a little leak on the drivers side hose where it mounts to the body. It appears that the stem coming out of the stainless line is where it's coming out. I put on some stainless lines many, many years ago from Motorsport Auto. So, not the question is, since you can't get one hose, i thought I would replace both rear hoses. The stainless hose come in a set of four, so that's one option, or just get a pair of rubber stock hoses...... Not sure about running stainless hose in front and rubber in the rear? If I get a set of stainless, any recommendation there? I know most won't fit in the factory clip. The care is a series one 240z, with Aluminum drum brakes in the rear, Any advice is appreciated,

Good point, I will double check the float levels. The car currently is running the SM needles. Will see which other ones I have, if I can read the markings..... Is there a "better" way to check float levels with them attached to the car? Thanks for the advice above, greatly appreciated.

So far, I keep turning the mixture screw down, and at about 3 1/4 turns out. Still see a bit lean on the plugs, and it starts to lose power at a higher rpm, around 4200. IF I pull the choke, it "feels" better. I don't think I have many turns left in the mixture screw. So will take it back and recheck timing again, as I have always run it at about 12 degree BTDC. I recall many years ago running it a 10 degrees BTDC. I am thinking I should try some different needles. Currently I have the SM needle. I did switch to K&N air cleaners, but I would doubt that would be an issue as allowing to much air....... I did have a nice drive today.....

Finally got a chance to get the car out today. Thanks for the suggestion. I tool it out and as it was getting up to 4K, it started to cut out and I pulled the choke. It did improve. Pulled over and move the fuel mixture another 1/2 of turn on each carb, and it was better. Took it home and check the plugs on cylinder #3 and #4 and they were a both the same, but a bit "white" so maybe still lean. I will take it another 1/2 a turn. Just don't remember the carbs being open 3 to 3.5 turns open....... Snow is coming this weekend, so doubt I get a chance to try it again until next week when it warms up........ Thanks for the advice , greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the reply. It's a L28 with 1971 carbs and a early distributor with Pertronix electronic module. Also have the original nissan performance exhaust header. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Do you still have these available?