oranngetang

Based on Dave's dyno numbers then, what did you see for a loss percentage wise at the wheels? 20%?

Excellent news! Please post some power figures and comments on the rebuild! Z-Fever hasn't subsided for me yet.

I think he's running higher comp than me, since he's talking race fuel. My 91 tune is making a little over 250 HP by 5000 RPM, but only 175 HP at 4000.

These are 15x9-0 Rota Shakotans, bolted against 1" wheel adapters. Tire is a 225/50R15 Kuhmo AST. Truthfully, these won't clear my AZC steering knuckles or Wilwood 4 piston calipers without that 1" wheel adapter installed, which makes them sit out too far. Suspension is the Ground Control coilover conversion with 10" 225/250 # springs, in their highest possible ride height. So much for adjustable. Since these do not clear my knuckles or brakes with the spacer and the GC suspension is maxed out for height, this car is undrivable, as is. I'm not willing to hack the fenders off my car and install some ZG flares as a brutal fix to this, so anyone looking for a set of these can get them from me for cheap as I'm currently shopping for larger rims and subsequently new tires...

Beware in the first 10 seconds that I was using it, it changed tire and rim widths on me. This calculator will not allow you to stretch a tire. If I put my rim and tire specs in there it'll change one or the other, changing backspacing.

I'm away working, but the wheels do drop a fair bit, enough that the spring can fully extend and can wiggle around. There should be a little room available for some lift on those inserts. I appreciate the help fellas.

I've never had luck with the gallery on this website. Thanks for the insulator info I'll do some looking. This new pump would require longer studs in order to be used with an insulator, and I don't think it would have enough stroke against that lobe to actually pump if it was installed. Time to make an order

I recently removed a pump from my L24 and it had the spacer, which was also stuck to the pump. The spacer ended up splitting in two when the pump finally came off (one half still stuck to the block. I installed a new pump on a new engine without a spacer, I've started it and run it like this for a little bit. With the pump lobe depressing the pump arm, I can still push firther, so there appears to be no risk of it binding up. Is the spacer required? What is it for? It seems the new 3rd party brands have a thicker mounting base to negate the spacer, as if the spacer was just a range limiting shim for the pump to regulate pressure or something?! I'm quite curious.

True enough. I feel like I should have just sent you a PM, with a list of what I wanted out of the car and just did that AFIAK the UFOs are for a factory insulator mount. The pillow balls and camber plates work together when you opt out of the factory mounts. I purchased the full package, sectioned strut housings, with inserts, springs, camber plates, etc. powder coated and installed. I think a taller spring may work, but I can't get any answers out of them. I'll need to call one of these days when I have the time to sit down with a list of questions and a pen and paper. I think we've exchanged about a 8 e-mails so far and I've gotten ZERO POINT ZERO information other than it appears they shipped what was on the invoice. Sure, whatever, but is whats on the invoice what I ordered? I hope to resolve this with them but up to this point, some of the worst customer service I've experienced anywhere. Basically I need a taller spring, or a taller perch ring. I feel the bodies were cut too short and that's their mistake, but maybe thats how they're all done and the height is made up elsewhere. It stil makes no sense to have the adjustable shafts where they are. The car is too low on the heighest setting. Why would I lower it another 4"? To plow roads?

I've only got what looks to be a factory pan on this one, supplied by Dave. Seemed to take about 5 qt. That's 10 oil changes ish. I do have an external oil cooler I havnt put on yet that'll take about 2 qt, and have been contemplating the azc pan when I eventually order the rear control arms from him... just stock piling cheap oil. This engine may be in and out of the car a few times more next year too so that'll be a drain each go. It's 30-40 C during the summer where this car lives, and I'm close enough to the border to bring it down to California in the summer should I decide on a dutyfree triples/dyno trip or something like that. I'm having a hard time justifying what would be $600 for an oil pan, but it's awfully nice.

48 Quarts for $220.68 USD, shipped. Thanks Amazon!

Wow! I was worried a 10W40 might be too high visc. Interesting the oil weight mindset a person can get in when living up in this climate I found a deal on the Brad Penn Grade 1 10W40 for roughly half-price. Will order a couple of cases, as ZDDP content seems to still be >1200 ppm which is inline with the Rotella stuff that seems to be so popular among those who either can't or won't run a conventional high-zinc racing oil. I would feel uncomfortable running diesel blends in a gasoline engine, and don't understand enough about old-school zinc/phos. blends VS high molyb and the like; Dave did specifically ask I run a high-zinc oil too. The Eneos stuff for example is a synthetic Nippon oil designed for high-revving OHC race engines, yet has very low zinc content and is a Mitsubishi factory oil, from what I've read. In theory that sounds like the ideal oil, but I'll try the green stuff in the longer term and some break-in stuff for now. If the builder mags are raving that Brad Penn is recommended for high lift/duration, high spring-rate flat-tappet valvetrains, then it must work just fine for us. New motor/tranni mounts and wheel studs made it home today, so it might be time for some more wrenching. I agree the dyno numbers appear inflated based on what others are putting down at the wheels and other builders claims, but really 100 HP / L isn't exactly unrealistic. Especially given the experience and parts used to put these in service. With my peak of 282 HP at nearly 3.0 L, on fresh, bored SUs, I can't honestly say the numbers are a lie, and it feels much, much, much more powerful and snappy than my L24, which is in good running order. 130 HP more though??, maybe! The torque is just demonic in comparison.

What weight of Brad Penn are you using?

How much height adjustability did your GC kit leave you?

I don't really like the idea of driving a fake anything, but I think for about 30-40k this would be a steal. Anything above that would be only for someone who's into this niche market. You can buy a barely driven GTR for what this is asking. To each their own. The GM engine and trans combo really let it down as an exotic replica. That said, dropping a V12 in it would certainly increase the asking price based on build price alone. IMO.

That's the time frame we discussed when I ordered, plus freight. I was expecting 4-6 weeks and it took over 6 months, which is nothing short of astonishing.

I did get a dyno sheet, but buyer-beware, it had a name on it other than mine, and a displacement that didn't make sense. I contacted them and a new dyno sheet was sent, with the my name and displacement changed, however all other digits and values remained the same; while some of which still seem askew, you probably can't fault me for my skepticism, right? I spoke with Dave today and he confirmed 0.007" cold at the valve tip, and not to use the vacuum advance, as well as the same oil information he gave you. Though my dyno sheet shows 0.010" cold, and 36 Degrees, but at what RPM. 4000 is the number I guess, or 5000 if Kurby calls Close enough, I was more concerned about the breaking in and actual figures to give me an idea of how it should feel. It is possible the distributor moved during freight, or maybe, it's set back on tooth on the spline? Is that possible? Kurby, there was mention of a Mobil 1 15w50 that contains more additives than other grades as well. Yes, the engine was drained of fluids prior to shipping, and as for my wondering about the noise... If it's 0.010" at the valve tip, that probably explains a little bit of it. Other than that Dave says this is a very loud cam, and the reason he puts up with it is because of the power it makes; which is fine with me. At this point, I'm still very happy with the engine unless it decides to crater on me at which point my mood wont be very great. The engine seems to like a couple of degrees more advance than it had, as it does spit out the carbs and seems to have a little more jam. That said, the carbs must have taken some bouncing on the delivery wagon, because the floats were pretty far out of alignment, enough so that the rear grose jet wasn't closing at fuel was squirting out of the overflow. Also, I've had the vacuum line hooked up, which I'll now plug off and reevaluate, sometime in the spring...! In the end it seems Dave and his crew build a nice torquey little engine and you do get what you pay for from an NA. However, I can't help but feel you only get answers to questions or solutions to problems you directly ask for, which isn't necessarily a bad thing given his L-series literate racing clientele. For guys like me just starting out with these cars it's been a little frustrating at times, but I would do it again if the delivery time-frame was closer to reality. For anyone reading this thread with the hopes of buying from Dave, also send an email or call to Eiji with DSI, you might be as surprised with the response you get.

I suppose what I was getting at is I wouldn't expect any noise from excessive lash with a warm measurement of < 0.010". I'll try and get in touch with Dave this next week. Most of the valves seemed to be ~0.007" ISH, though it seemed highly dependant on cam position, as if the base circle on these isn't very uniform, unlike the stock L24 A cam. The engine was dyno tuned, broken in and retorqued, I imagine lash was also adjusted after. Hopefully this is just a trait of the engine and nothing unusual! Snowing another 10cm today, so that might have been the last trial until May anyway! Kurby, did Dave indicate a preferred weight or base timing? Mine was shipped with the distributor advance dial set in the most retarded position and was initially popping through the carbs. I havn't been able to find my digital timing light to check the exact advance, and there are 4 marks on the pulley, soo... anyway, I'd like to compare notes Did he mention Rotella oil at all? I hear lots of fellas running it becuase of the additives most oils no longer contain, though it's generally a high weight and designed for diesels.

I can't push a 0.010" feeler between any of them with a 'warm' engine, and everything looks clean and tidy in there. When I have the time I'll take it for a good boot and adjust to 0.010/0.012 while hot. Read on Zcar that 0.001" is equivalent to 5* of cam timing on a stock L24, seems like an excessive amount, but the credentials sound legit. Any idea what Dave runs for lash on his cams, or would it vary each grind?

Well with only about 30 minutes of runtime since the break-in/dyno/re torque, I doubt it.

So... Can anyone say with these Rebello 3.0 engines, that the valvetrain is much louder, almost like a diesel kind of sound in the valve cover when it's running? It's a new to me sound, my L24 never made.

What color is it going to be?

Crazy camo! Must have been pretty bad to strip it down, looks like a lot of work. Nice new looking brake booster!

Kirby, I think it may have been worth the wait. It's snowing out and the car was somewhat impossible to steer but it still pulled, hard, and under 5000 rpm so far... I hope it dries up a little tomorrow before this insane storm front buries this part of the country in -29 C (-20 F) ugliness in a couple of days. You'll be pretty happy when it is in, I think....

The bay must show better in the photos than in person. Truthfully the car needs a paint job and some bodywork. That stuff was going to be my fall/winter project after having the summer to find all the mechanical ailments. I'm planning on a career change and will be moving in the spring so this may turn out to be a project that won't be complete for many years now. Same issue of all work and no play now, when all I had planned this summer was Z wrenching and kayaking. Attempting to upload from phone. All of that said... it's almost ready to start. Put 10 L of 94 in it, filled with oil and coolant. I need to bleed and adjust the clutch hook up the plug wires once the fuel is primed through... might even run tomorrow... maybe. Need a driveshaft too.