siteunseen

Yeah he made peanut butter, George Washington Carver.

If you'll read down towards the bottom of this page you might see something? Good luck. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html

On my 280, '77, there's no white plastic plug to the starter wire. That pictures is a 240Z. The small wire that goes to the starter's S terminal should be taped together with the black that goes to the fusible links on the strut tower. There's 4 plugs on mine coming out from under where the voltage regulator is. two go to the wiring harness and two go to the vacuum solenoids.

The black is connected with the red battery lead on the starter. Then it splits into four wires going to the fusible links on the strut tower.

Red to the starter's solenoid, black to the top starter mounting bolt? Alternator's white with red stripe to the BAT post, black to the E and the T plug plugged in? It sounds like your new ground terminal isn't tight or the fusible link plug isn't connected. I had a bad alternator that blew the IGN fuse on mine and killed all the gauges but the horn would blow.

I bet that's a typo, 2/71 should be 2/72. Mine is 2/72 and 69,***.

With all the Bluetooth speakers out now and the micro SD cards for my phone, I've decided to put the original radio back in. It took an hour of hair brained searching to find it but when I did I was happy to see the condition it was in, almost like new other than the silver edging is worn off.

Some comparisons. It's a little cleaner and I know what's in there.

Well I'm done. Drove it and put 5 gallons in for tomorrow mornings drive. First time it's been driven in over a year. Quick rebuild I said. Not a 240!

This is a very promising idea like someone said above. I half assed it am happy enough to put it back in until I do a full restore. I want to drive! Some taped over the crack and come in from the bottom side with the ABS cement and it works like a charm. Like I said, with a little more effort I could have made the cracks unnoticeable. (I think )

Don't sweat it too much. You are happy, that's all that matters now.

It dries really fast! I've only put on one layer and coat so far and after 15 minutes I was handling it pretty normal, almost trying to break it loose. I cut the fiberglass to size. Put a thin layer of ABS down, too thin apparently, when I go to stick the mat down the cement had already started to set up. I pushed it in with a finger though and put a medium top coat over the mat, you can still see the little squares. I'm about to put a second layer on this morning and will put up a picture.

Some fiberglass drywall joint tape and ABS cement works great so far! Only time will tell.

Zed Head, I'm glad you and I friends. 8^)

Thank you sir! More questions to follow...

While adjusting my carbs that hose is open to the atmosphere. Should I plug it or just leave it open? Thanks in advance.

Cracked skirts would make ME smoke! A crack up in a skirt would make me smile though. 8^)

Is "badassss beer"available over the counter or under the counter? The kind I get has no label just Sharpie marks on the caps. And doesn't come from the closet 7-11.

Sorry about this for you Guy. I've read many of your post talking about him.

You may want to look at the rubber in the transmission mount. I found one of mine had no rubber left but it wasn't just the shifter wobbling, the transmission was bumping up and down against the crossmember. But your's probably is what Dennis says. Here's something to read, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html Not mine but close. A new one,

I do, or rather it drives me. Gas and oil, that's it. Can't hear the motor, can talk on the phone (speaker phone of course) freeze the windows over from the inside and about 80% of the red light stops there's one just like it. I hate it and love it both.

From Hasting Rings; STARTING PROCEDURE 1. Set tappets, adjust carburetor and ignition timing as accurately as possible before starting engine. 2. Start engine and set throttle to an engine speed of approximately 25 miles per hour (trucks, tractors and stationary engines one-third throttle) until the engine coolant reaches normal operating temperature. Then shut down engine and retorque cylinder head bolts, recheck carburetor adjustments, ignition timing and valve tappet clearance. (Run engine at fast idle during warm-up period to assure adequate initial lubrication for piston rings, pistons and cylinders.) BREAK-IN PROCEDURE 1. Make a test run at 30 miles per hour and accelerate at full throttle to 50 miles per hour. Repeat the acceleration cycle from 30 to 50 miles per hour at least ten times. No further break-in is necessary. If traffic conditions will not permit this procedure, accelerate the engine rapidly several times through the intermediate gears during the check run. The object is to apply a load to the engine for short periods of time and in rapid succession soon after engine warm up. This action thrusts the piston rings against the cylinder wall with increased pressure and results in accelerated ring seating. Where I live we have some pretty good mountains not too far away from home. I have always read and been told to pull the hills and not get over 3,000 rpms then go back down the hill letting the gears slow the car, not using the breaks. Don't hold a steady RPM, run it up and then let the gears slow it down. The engine decelerating itself forces the rings out against the cylinder walls, I was told that on my first rebuild and followed that and have good compression. I believe in the "break it in like you're going to drive it". Don't baby it.

Looking forward to your update. After I get my electrical upgrades from Dave Irwin the rear disc from zcardepot.com is next.

Thanks for all the replies.

I hope you get $5,000 for your car.