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That would be good for drag racing I guess, straight line.

Any parts store should have the Felpro rear seal on hand but you should check, they may have to overnight it from a Hub store. If you want the Nissan seal I have the part number at home. I think it was $15.

As long as the flywheels friction surface matches the friction surface on the pressure plate, and I'm sure they will if you buy it as a kit, it would be fine. A lot of people prefer the larger friction disc the 240mm provides. More grip for launching off. I'm 99.9 percent sure the turbo has the 240mm just like the 2+2. Maybe a typo in their description?

I used a deep socket to press mine down. They have to fit down on a ridge in the pinion gear housing. Something you may have to do to get all the old one out is to use a needle type pick and scrape inside that ridge. I had to find my cheapo magnifying glass to see down in there.

I've seen those retainers. Schneider recommends them for their race stuff. They look like Honest Abe's top hat. They're for .250 and thicker lash pads, IIRC

Like from a leaky rear main oil seal. That would be a pain.

I had mine resurfaced for $40.

I just so happen to have an e31 with a pretty aggressive cam kit sitting under my guest bed. I was going to bolt it on the 2.4 I just finished. Thank you Guy for new options.

that's the thread with the info Steve posted above. I had to go back and read through it. Steve is the Man! Boy, when it rains it pours. Seems like everybody's crapped out around the same time.

I replaced that dime sized oil seal in mine about a month ago. Not one drop so far. A few dollars from Nissan.

From my scattered and shattered memory it's Exedy #6907, or something close.

The $100 Exedy kit from amazon.com is what ive put in 2 of my Zs. Great clutch in my opinion. There's a way to make the pedal rod longer to get every bit of use out of a clutch. Top of the pedal to the floorboard is close to 9". If it's not make that push rod longer and it'll bring the pedal up. Another thing is bleed the slave cylinder. If the tranny came out of a coupe it should be 225mm except for a turbo. They're 240mm like the 2+2. If it were mine and I didn't know for sure I'd drop the transmission, measure then order the kit. amazon.com gets to me in 3 days, sometimes 2 for free. For a little extra money you can get it the next day.

I'll do the reading later but you're saying I can use a 2.4 crank with the matching 9mm rods and put p79 86mm flat tops into an f54 and it will run a 1,000 more rpms with the proper cam and head work? If so that's my next motor! Amazing the interchangeable innards of the L motor.

I thought that was some type of cleaning solution in that can!

Z Therapy says not to soak the floats for the carburetors in carb cleaner, it'll eat them up. I don't know if they are made of the same material though, just putting that info out for you.

Ha! My problem happened when the splined rod that connects to the steering wheel slid out of its engagement. I just guessed at it and slid it back up into place. Went to the alignment shop and he said the front tires were almost 2 inches off. Bad guesstimate.

Way too stiff for a road car. Would be good on a track car I suppose. I put one on my 280 when I rebuilt the motor. The wheel was twitching constantly, put the old rubber one back on after a month or two. I couldn't imagine having one on a lighter 240 with the original wheel.

I learned the very hard way, poly sucks on that application. Be sure and make matching marks with a Sharpie before you take that apart. Another lesson I learned the hard way.

I've learned to say "hey there buddy!" It buys me more time to think.

Looks like the one pointing out ready to fly is the one you've taken, that's the one I'd be in.

Another haircut.

Those things are so bendable. I've wondered if paint would stay on mine. Acrylic maybe?

http://www.copart.com/ will get it most likely.

Will you get another 240? I pushed lady luck with motorcycles then she pushed back and I walked away for good. Actually rolled away in a wheelchair broken and bruised, glad to be alive.

Yes, take it apart for sure. They sent me a bad one and I had a helluva time trying to figure it out, my first time ever fooling with one. I called and explained the deal and they overnighted one to me. Good people to do business with. You did notice the different heights between the front carb and the rear one right? I think I ended up just adding one extra washer onto the front. It needs to be deeper in the float chamber to make up for the fuel sloshing back when you accelerate. If I remember right???