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@Mike When I choose a picture it shows uploaded on the forum with about 2/3rds added blank page. In doing so it only shows the picture once it's added in the post about 1/3rd the size.

I need to find out what bulb is in the speedo and the tach and add them but here's what i think to start off with. Three 5 panel LEDs for the fuel/amp/clock gauges. Two 4 panel festoons for the map light and the dome light One 90 degree 4 panel for the glove box

After reading, what is the most popular gauge replacement LED. I think the 5 LED tower bulbs were mentioned most and what about colors? Warm white, cool white or green? Thanks for any and all opinions.

After reading that first link I feel even stupider. I was trying to get the radio's holes to line up with the very back bolts, the one with the ground wire in Can Tec's picture. It didn't want to go that far back, now I know why. I had know idea about that rear plate either. Can't wait until I feel better, loosened up, so I can go back to contortionists practice. The circus is in town, I'm trying out for the Biggest Clown. Shouldn't be much of a contest.

Looked the same to me the best I can remember. I sprayed it satin black and took the sticker off the old one and glued it to the newest one. Still works fine.

It fits on there perfect. You saved me big time. Thanks!

Thank you Sir! Did you hear anymore from Slick, the car guy? None of my business but I'm curious. Thanks again for the links.

Boy oh boy! Thank you CanTec. Wise men/women say "You won't know if you don't ask" I'll bug yall to death!

I'm sorry, it's my 7tooZ.

Beautiful! Thank you. After a cold beer or four I've decided to get the leds for those 3 gauges that are in my reach at the moment. Is this part of the original? I thought it was mounting spacer for the Clarion tape deck. After paying attention it's gotta be. Same metal and the cutout for the antenna.

I'm trying to get the original one back in and it's giving me a fit. I'm thinking unhook all the hvac cables and completely remove that face plate/cover? Any tips would be great news for me. I'm stumped at getting it in with all the wiring behind it. Can't line up the back bolts to the chassis. Thanks for ANY ideas.

That's what I'm looking for now, a gauge bulb like your glove box has. My clock never has lit up and that's the closet illumination switched power for the OE radio I'm putting in now. I'm going to splice into that and just hold off on the clocks bulb, nobody has them in stock around here. Someday soon I'm going to get an LED list together and change them all out, BUT NOT TODAY!

Looks like they've discontinued the 37mm 6 burner in warm white. I can get the 30mm 4 burner like Greg has, for cheap too! $5 each I'll measure them but I think the dome light and map light are the same on the 240. Thanks again Men!

I see now why mine isn't very bright. The ones you guys are showing are the led plates without a cover. The cover isn't allowing them to direct the light straight ahead, it seems to give off more of a 360 degree which is no good for my car. Thanks for "showing me the light".

Pretty sure it was like this one from advanced auto. It's nice and white but the dome lense is so thick and opaque it just isn't strong enough. I could research a little more and get a brighter one for the dome and use that bulb in the map light? Thanks Greg.

I put an LED in my dome light and wasn't too impressed. Do they work good on the map light, if anyone has tried. Thanks!

I read my receipt from rockauto and I had written on there "total after core, $106. Thats the small one.

http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/406009-fuel-percolation-3-screws-su-carbs-bowls.html Quote: Originally Posted by princejqman In addition to the stock heat shield which was installed in the car by the Factory originally, i have mounted a Stainless Steel heat shield extension that reaches the bottom of both 3 screws SU Carburetor float bowls. However, the fuel percolation is still present. The gasoline in my country, Panama, has no ethanol so this should not be happening. The heat comes directly from the manifold and thus there must be away of lowering that amount of heat so it does not affect the fuel that is inside the float valves and that will evaporize and consequently shut the engine down. Other owners only throw out ideas such as swapping metal fuel rail with 5 inch rubber hoses or driving with the lid off? Is this really going to help and avoid the car idle becoming lumpy at traffic jams which leads to a sudden shut down of the engine? Wouldnt it be better to find a way to lower the temperature at the stock manifold? How about ceramic coating the stock manifold? It's been fun but I'm done. You have graduated to my Ignore List.

Why did you remove the mechanical fuel pump to begin with?

I like that, closer to the color of the steering wheel.

For a rebuilt auto parts one I used rockauto.com or amazon.com, can't remember which was the lower priced. I do remember having to send a core back though. After that it was right at $100 for the smaller 240 one. You'll need to paint it, it's raw steel out of the box.

Quietly hiding in the shadows of your garage...Evil Z

On my Samsung you have to hit the options button and it'll pull up choices.

Add the new RECIPIENT to the text message, you can delete the OP if you want to so he don't get it again. I think that's how I do mine?

I'm still getting the hang of it, not too good yet and just don't care. But if you hold your finger down on that little blue thing or double tap it (can't even remember now) a copy and paste menu bar will pop up. It's not worth the trouble really, I push the power button and the menu button at the same time and get a screen grab saved to my gallery then just attach that. I like the newest Sonic commercial, guy says "one of them new fancy paper phones?" the other guy says "a fax machine".