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I've tried to find the write up on my 240's tank refurb without luck so here goes from my fuzzy memory. Things you need: 1 gallon muriatic acid, $10 1 quart Denatured Alcohol, $10 I believe? 2 pound baking soda. $1 from a Dollar Store, $.50 each. 4 five gallon buckets some bungee cords with hooks. a funnel, with the long stem cut off quart of Red-Kote My process: tape up the vent lines out of the tank. Get a rubber cap for the big fill hole. fill one bucket with 2 pounds baking soda and 4 gallons of water, set aside pour in the gallon of acid, slosh around for 5 minutes then dump into an empty 5 gallon bucket pour in the baking soda and water, slosh around for a couple of minutes then empty that into another bucket pour in the quart of alcohol, slosh around for a couple of minutes pour into a smaller bucket. this will dry the water/soda rinse and prevent flash rusting. pour in the Red-Kote. Rotate the tank in all directions completely covering the inside. hang tank with bungee cords, there's some small holes around the edge for the hooks on the bungees. Let the excess drip out into another bucket. open all vent holes and the fill hole. set it out in the direct sun for 30 minutes, rotating the tank in all directions so it'll set up without pooling in the low spots. I put my leaf blower in the fill hole and let it blow on half throttle for at least 30 minutes. leave it in the sun as much as you can bringing it in at night then back out the next day. let it sit for a couple of weeks until the smell has dissipated. this will give you time to get all the evap hoses together for installation of the tank and the evap lines I poured the soda and water bucket together with the acid bucket then poured that onto all the ant beds in my yard. No more ants! This is a quick stroll back in time so most likely forgot something. If I remember anything else I'll let you know. Most important thing was to have everything readily available as this is a time sensitive process if you want it right without flash rust. Leave your phone's ringer off too. These were good reads before the job, lets you know what to expect. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm http://damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf One more,

I had stuck nozzles on a 240 I bought once. The previous owner had used small fuel line which hardened instead of the proper thin wall pre-shaped hose. I bought 2 from Nissan for a few dollars. Problem solved.

I see a clamp now. Thanks

How do these secure the hose ends?

One of my favorite albums. 8^) "The telephone is ringing...is that my Mother on the phone?" These are the reasons for an electric water heater in my downstars garage.

I bow down in shame. Went downstairs to wash some clothes and the smell of gas hit me. Which one you did this?

You are 100% right Chris! I've split a couple of the ends over the years and that threaded center stalk deteriorates over time. A fuel filter that's not fuel proof? Anyway I hand tighten mine and check them all the time. I will look around for an aluminum one like you've posted, Jegs has good variety. Thanks, Cliff. I like this one...

I use blue 3 in 1 also. $3 at Lowes.

Here's the thread I started after I did the 280's tank. That was my learning experience. I will post the "better" way I used on the 240 tomorrow.

I'll write up what I did tomorrow morning. Cliff

I haven't seen one yet but they're out there.

Yes! @Bonzi Lon told me about that important step. The instructions say let it cure until there's no chemical smell. Mine sat for about a month for the 240's, my 280 sat for two weeks. I have some helpful tips I can share on the whole tank refurbishing thing. Glad to help if I can.

I'm kinda weird I guess but I like to see the fuel to make sure it's not colored any shade of red from the tank lining. My car sits for months without being cranked much less moved to slosh the fuel around inside the tank. I have a Fram G2 out of the tank, the glass one then the OE mounted on the inside fender. Another neat thing about those glass filters, when my float levels were off that thing was never completely full. After a painstaking week of getting the floats right that filter has always been completely full. If I see it's not full and filling itself up as the car runs I will revisit the float levels.

What do y'all think about spoons? I use one almost daily without poking my eyes out.

We might be brothers!

In 2015 I cleaned then coated the fuel tank on my 240. Today I put a new screen in the low pressure glass filter that I use. Nothing even close to pink from the Red-Kote, yea for me!

That's a nice looking Z Tom!

You had a York but that newer style fuel pump wouldn't go on with that huge bracket holding the compressor.

I have all that Yorx crap in my storage building. It was dealer installed in 1972 but I would consider getting rid of it or whatever parts you may need. I'd go with a newer Gen Air system. EDIT: Vintage Air has the Gen system. Sanden is good from all I've read like Mr Arnett mentioned above.

If you look above the master cylinders you'll see a ID plate with the engine number, then you'll know if it's the original motor.

I've had the same one since cleaning the fuel tank on my 280 in 2011. My clear filter looks like new too so I'm not breaking out my wallet either.

It's the same motor that came in my '77. N42 cast iron block with 86mm cylinder bores. It has a N47 cylinder head, you can see this between #1 and #2 spark plugs. Mine was the early change over head that had a oiler cam PLUS a spray bar resulting in very low oil pressure on the gauge but flooded the valve train with oil. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_L_engine

Efi fuel filters hold about a quart.