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siteunseen

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Everything posted by siteunseen

  1. Try prying the retainers down with a screwdriver or small pry bar. If you can get the pressure off with one hand and pick at the collets with the other hand. Lay a magnet next to them to catch them when they fall loose.
  2. Quick side bar. LeonV, I absolutely love my aluminum flywheel and stock clutch combo. Thank you for helping me make that decision. I think it's my favorite add on so far. Next is the triples. Baby steps. 8^)
  3. You can use a big flat head screwdriver and pry down on the spring retainer. Slide it under a rough spot on the cam. Put the car in gear and the crank won't move.
  4. That's nice! It makes for a better finish than the flakes for sure. Thanks for the dupi color number.
  5. 100 miles this morning without a hiccup. 8^) I believes I got it!
  6. I've used a deep socket, maybe a spark plug socket?, over the spring retainers and pop them with a rubber hammer. It knocks them loose before using the spring compressor. You'll hear the difference in sound when you get one loose. The only thing you might be careful of is the keepers can jump out across the room. If you'll hit them until you hear the springy sound instead of a "ting" sound you'll know they're loose. A pencil size magnet works good getting the keepers when the spring is compressed. I've read that some guys use a socket and hammer and don't use a spring compressor. Good luck.
  7. Changed out the break in oil, looked good. Cut the filter and it looks good. I was expecting timing guide pieces that thing is so tight. 8^) I went with Quaker State Defy 10-30. It claims 1200 zdpp? same as vr1 but 5 quart jug at walmart was only $15. I'm guessing the anti flowback vales have changed from the rubber flap and now are on the $4 frams? I guess that is what this is, I've not seen that before.
  8. Thanks CMan, I had my blinders on. If you don't have a 27mm socket you can pull all the plugs out and roll the car back and forth to slowly turn the motor (pulley) to find the notch. You might want to lightly sand that rotor button's copper edge too, every little bit helps. Good luck.
  9. Lay under the driver's side with a 27mm socket for turning the crank nose bolt. Turn it towards the driver's side until this mark comes down to the bottom. get some kind of paint, White-Out or nail polish. A magic marker would work to I guess and mark it up real good so you can see it from the top side. The bottom right picture, "Timing Mark". When you get everything to TDC, zero, take the distributors cover off check to see if everything is lined up the stator's points and the rotor's to each other. The distance too by loosening those screws. here's the link to Blue's Tech Tips where I got the pictures for you to look at. I did this to mine and it makes a difference. Thanks Blue. http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html
  10. Yes it is. Moving the wires straight across from one another should get you something, a slight hit at least. I think you said earlier it kicked back one time almost stopping the starter? To me that means you were close but had the timing too high.
  11. Nope, '79 ZX shroud with a '78 radiator. The coolant runs 175 degrees sitting still.
  12. There's a good bit of tips and suggestions. Search "engine removal". Not sure how far you want to go when the engines out of the bay. I tinkered with mine for a year before reinstalling it, cleaning and deleting unused stuff.
  13. I'm going to put the bronze side bushings on and now will get the thickest cup bushing from my collection of shift rods. It's still hard to believe I haven't read anything about grinding the shift rod. I've read a lot of stuff on theses cars over the past 5 years.
  14. I'll put some blue layout dye on mine and see what marks I get, thanks for that idea. I can try that today and hopefully get my interior put back together. I need to change the break-in oil out with some fresh and put some miles on that little baby.
  15. When it's on the compression stroke, which is what you want, line the biggest notch on the pulley with the "0" on the timing marker then take the very front spark plug out and get a hose or something stuck into the spark plug hole and blow or suck, whichever you prefer. It should be airtight. When you swapped ECUs did you put the plug wires back to 153624? Get it to top dead center, pull the distributor cap off and snap a picture, post it.
  16. Gas prices are down and I made the mistake of stopping by my old friend's boat shop. Bad mistake, this video didn't help either. I used to have a Hydrostream Vector with a Mercury 2.5, 100 MPH boat. We used to do the same thing back when the police liked to have fun, they would radar us and tell us how fast we were going, no speedometers in race boats. 10,000 tach, temperature and water pressure gauge. Here was our drag strip, Turn up the volume and enjoy.
  17. I'm embarrassed after looking at that picture of my carpet! There's a window right there and it was casting some strange light plus that was my cell phone. It's not nasty like it looks in the picture, I promise.
  18. He chews everything, it's crazy. My female wasn't like this, I miss that dog but I'm liking him more and more. He's got a personality I'm not used to, sorta goofy like me, clumsy as can be and always ready to play. I can't afford chew toys the way he goes through them. I gave him blocks of wood but read that wasn't good to do. I wish he liked to chew on Zoysia.
  19. If I had listened to Dave WM's post here I would be waaaay ahead of the game. I'm a little slow to try things like he did but that is exactly what fixed mine. I got a rusty spare to experiment with at the junkyard and ground a little, went 4 feet before it popped out of 5th. Ground some more, 12ft. Ground some more, touchdown! Adjusted the valves too, head looked good. Thanks for everybodies input, it's tough helping a hard headed guy like me. I'm trying! Here's the final grinding that worked, Found some good rubber too.
  20. It's Berber! That's like shag carpet now days. He's pretty smart but I don't think his interior decorating skills will allow him to live indoors after many more surprises like this.
  21. Ah yeah! That's exactly what I'll do this Saturday. I've temporarily cut it out so he won't pull any more up, the little turd. I'm trying to remember what you have, is it a Lab? I have some 16x16 Travertine I'm going to put in front of the door. After the "chew 'til they're two" phase I want to put that floating fake wood down. This apartment has got hardwood as the sub floor but carpet or something like the laminate wood acts as an insulator in between upstairs where I live and the garage downstairs. It's a little quieter up here with some type of floor covering, it was built in the late 50s, it's not too tight.
  22. Have been at the mosquito infested junkyard all day. I have a good rubber boot now so no fumes can get in. Also got a couple of shifters to experiment with. My transmission is a wide 5spd with two exhaust hangers at the tail. I can't explain why but it only works with the short snout shifter or fifth gear only works with the shorter one. I'm going to grind the junkyard one where the scratches are and see if that'll work. If not I will have them cut and welded together. Everything I've read says the long snout will work fine. I don't understand why mine won't? It only works with the close ratio shifter with the short snout. I come home and find my puppy got bored and chewed my carpet up while I was gone. Another day another project.
  23. Thanks Mark, I always get that wrong. One day I'll figure it out.
  24. Are you originally from Alabama?!?
  25. Mine was loose until I bled the slave cylinder once I had everything put back. If you want to get a new rubber boot for the clutch fork they're still available from Nissan. Part number 30542-E9000, $7.00 from my local dealership. There is an adjustable rod at the top of the clutch pedal that will determine where the clutch engages. You need to make it shorter with a worn clutch, I think?? I put in a new clutch and needed to get everything back to normal so I made that rod longer? There's a page in the FSM that explains how and what to do, I can't remember now and I just did it about a week ago. My brain is Z fried but I have a 44 year old car that runs like new now.
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