siteunseen

I'm running out of LIKES. Y'all are killing me. Cliff

I never thought I'd never hear that! Give him a minute, he looks pretty cool. We're jealous, at least I am. Keep up the good work!

Then when you get it running and want to clean up the engine build yourself a fuel rail. They greatly reduce fuel percolation in the hot weather restart problem, FYI.

You're very fortunate to have a Dad like you do. Mine cared more about working than doing nice things for his kids. He's almost 80 now and come full circle though. I followed your Dad's thread with nothing but smiles. Treat that car good, it means a lot to two people. Maybe let your sister drive it someday!

They should post in your thread if they have the parts after we tagged them. Good luck!

I used this a cheap high heat paint, about $10 a quart at Lowes. Rattle spray cans also but I bought a $20 dollar gravity fed HVLP cup gun from Harbor Freight. More miles per quart.

Everything's made in Shina according to Pumpkin Head.

Phillip I thought about your hatred for the chinese crap as I put up a few ceiling fans. Every screw rounded off/out. I thought of "Phillip's headed cheap Chinese crews" they wouldn't even stick to my magnetic bit holder. needless to say I had many cold dogs after I was done. They're up and balanced but closer inspection shows chewed up screwheads. Rental house so I'm gonna let it go, let it go let it go let it go. jenny says, LET IT GO

I've got one too, if you need that one. It's off a JY ZX so it may be crap but you can have it for shipping charges, IF I can figure out how to get it separated from the distributor.

Make sure you have plenty of fuel in the tank and a strong battery. Is it a newly rebuilt? First time cranking? The oil pump and distributor spindle must be right on. Did you time everything with the first two cam lobes up like rabbit ears? True top dead center.

@black gold man has some Zx stuff too.

$200 to $300, get the two intakes too. From the cylinder head to the air filter if it were my chance. If it's got an E31 cylinder head those are rare. Even the E88s are. Ztherapy.com charges $200 for core SUs. http://www.ztherapy.com/products/masterprices/master_price_list.htm ZT101 on the price list. Somebody would pay that just to turn them in on new remans.

You may have to cut a slit in it with a Dremel disc and use a flathead screwdriver. Almost all mine did that round off bullshit. My memory is coming back! Try a small set of Vise-Grips on it if the lubricate doesn't work.

Here's S30's allen head screws, better deal too. @S30Driver

I bought the new improved hex screws for the injectors from Nissan back in 2012 for $7.50 for all twelve. Part number 01121-02981

You could also run the pump supply/input hose out of a 2.5 gallon gas jug. It's the output that's high pressure. Let it run for a few seconds then blow into that ho's.

I'd get the steering wheel and gear knob if they're original. A few hours restoring them will reap big rewards on resale. Check the prices on e-bay.

The early ones have the one connection on the module, the later has two connection. E12-80, early. E12-92 later. According to the spread sheet he needs the D6K81-01, which would be the two E12-92 I believe. E12-92 E12-80 The spread sheet,

I guess you should plug all the open hoses. Didn't think of that earlier, sorry.

You could replace the rubber seals around the injectors while you have them out. I'd get that N42 head and the N42 intake and delete all the EGR stuff. I have a funky N47 intake with the beginning of the EGR era, it has the mount but no EGR tunnel underneath connecting to the runners to the intake ports. I put a block off plate on there just to keep crap from getting down in the hole.

All those are small things, it should crank and run without all that crap. Not drive but crank. The broken wire goes onto the BCDD right above it, to the right. No big deal yet. The vacuum canister and dizzy hose go into a T fitting, one goes to the cannister the other to the vacuum advance. no effect until driving. You could take the thermotine and other sensor out, clean them and solder the wires directly onto their positions. Your first picture is the dash pot, I don't run one on my '77. They are to keep the RPM from falling too fast and are open to the atmosphere. Yours is missing the smaller hole car but that's no big deal. That vacuum module with the wires cut and the port broken somehow ties into the EGR, or BPT. Can't remember but mines gone. Does it go on the heating plate and the hose comes out of the thermal vacuum switch? If it won't crank after a rebuild you've got deeper problems than what you've shown above. Check the spark plug wires and firing order, loosen the dizzy and have someone crank on the car while turning the cap and see if you can get it to hit. Good luck.

I was just running my mouth. I think it's in the ignition somehow or another.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/59224-hesitation-during-acceleration/?do=findComment&comment=539001

I bought my first 280 for $1,000 back in the late 80s. It would crank and idle but nothing else. Guy was frustrated with it and took my offer, all the money I had at 18 years old. He also was married with children and couldn't drive the foreign car to his job at the steel plant. They would cut the tires back then, Buy American was the war cry around here. Loaded it on a trailer and tracked down a local legend, "The 280 Lady". She had it running in 30 minutes. 15 of that was checking the basic stuff then the TVS then popped the cover off the AFM and tapped the weight, it was stuck. Got in and beat the hell out of it around the block. I gave her $25 bucks. Good Karmal is what my Dad says. Pay it forward!

If you can wire it with a male on one wire and a female on the other and just split one wire to the ecu, speaker wire worked for me.