siteunseen

Make sure the vane is moving easily behind the black plastic cover and the wipe path is clean and dry. On the AFM.

Here's the 240 Nissan, I put it on dry. Metal against the header. here's the later 280's that Gwri8 bought.

That's great! My barrel list too, someday. 8^)

You're getting there! I don't think it's a turbo car. usually they have TURBO written under the 280ZX emblem. But a picture of the engine bay would be a definite tell.

Save the email pictures onto your device then when you reply like I'm doing now go down and click on choose files. Find the email pics and after they upload click the "+" symbol to add it to the reply.

Saturday night campouts at 11 maybe 12 or 13, when we drank cooking wine and acted drunk. My first "punk music".

Okay, this will NEVER work... Here's the .55" gap you keep asking about. I found this from the DVD, Ray Charles could have figured it out. This must be set with the lids right side up. The weight of the float cannot be supported by the needle valve. That's why the tang looks like a ramp in the first photo. It should look like these, a hump not a ramp. All cleared up now, moving on.

No, no. The pin or needle on the valve rides on the hump of the metal bracket on the float. The lower the float the longer the pin the more fuel flows in. When the bowl is full of fuel it "floats" the float pushing the pin in; shorter. Shuts the valve, no fuel enters. If I had time and patience I could photograph the workings of the float with the needle valve BUT YOU HAVE A DVD THAT EXPLAINS IT ALL. Please watch it, in slow motion if need be. I watched it 3 times before I ever turned a screw to rebuild mine. It's all right in front of you, you've got tunnel vision. Nothing you buy will make this simple, it's a tedious task that takes time. You have to get the baseline measurement first, either the clear tube (cheaper) or the sight glasses (not so cheap). Think this through, write down a plan and stick to it. You are bouncing all over this simple but very important task. Focus on the plan. To fix a running toilet you simply bend the rod going to the float. Same thing with your carbs. Watch the DVD please. I'm getting bored repeating myself. If I want to do that I'll get a girl over here. At least I eat good and get a cold sore.

He's talking about a small ball under the float's tang to bend it down. It looks like the ramp for Snake River rocket jump just like mine did. Float bowls were way to low of fuel that way, started sputtering going up a mountain. Rolled it backwards perpendicular with the street and let the bowls get full went another half mile and did it again. Straight home and started to work on them. Now they're perfect, car runs better than ever.

.55" from the underside of the lid and the top front of the float, pushed up. You shouldn't be able to blow any air through the valve. Think about the float in your toilet. .55" from the lid to the top of the toilet's float with it full of water. When the tank float get to a certain level the water quits entering the tank. Your tank isn't filling up enough now so when you flush you still have caca in the seat.

Yes. That's easiest way to get initial float level for me. Glue the cork gaskets onto the lids and only use two screws while taking them off and on. You will get it right after 2 or 3 attempts. Don't rush this, wait until you have plenty of time. Hold them right side up and blow through fuel bung while pushing the float upwards. Have something that is .55" wide and hold it against the bottom of the lid. When you are at .55" you should not be able blow any air. Valve is closed. Fine tune with the mixture knobs

You are missing the hose clip that goes on the nozzle is this particular picture. Those move up and down when you use the choke and the clip keeps the hose from coming off. You need one there.

Don't actually crank the car, just turn the motor over to get the fuel pressure up. Pull the coil wire off and it won't crank up. The way your mechanic did that is a result of the floats not being set at the same level. He's compensating the front float bowl being low of fuel by dropping the nozzle down. You disable one carb and the car will still run, barely. You disable the other carb and get them to run the same. Hard to explain with a keyboard. Watch the DVD that came with your carbs, it shows what I'm talking about.

Here's a picture of the lids. Your mechanic made them even by drilling those holes and raising the pin. Other people have done it because all you can buy now are short valves. See the difference in the original valves in the picture below.

Lots of blind spots in my Z. I tend to pick a lane then stay there.

Once you get the fluid in the clear tube where it needs to be do what Mark has said. That will get your mixture knobs exact, 1/16" from top of the nozzle. Carbs will be good, case closed, move on to other problems if you still have any. "Put it back together, start it up to be sure the float chamber has been filled to the new float setting and to see if the float level is now correct see post #54 and #56. Mixture screws 2 1/2 turns down the fuel level in the nozzle should be within 1/16" of the top of the nozzle."

This is good in my opinion. He basically made you the older and better 4 "screw type". The ears are equal length now, both are short like the rear carb. I put two rear carb lids on mine instead of drilling. I have an extra set to rob parts off of. Your mechanic did GOOD. Now get them both set at .55" and put them back together. Get a couple of feet of clear hose and set it up like the picture, you don't need a clamp on the bottom nipple a Zip-Tie if anything. Hold the clear hose up alongside the carburetor with some type of stiff wire, like the picture. Once you get it set up pull the coil wire off then crank the motor over. The liquid petrol in the clear tube should be even with the circled area on this photo. That's the 23mm way of setting the floats. Don't worry about the rear being 21mm. That's not a big deal. See below for the reasoning...

I posted this three days ago for you.

The metal needs to be parallel with the top of the float too. Your second picture has the pin end a little low. Those are tougher than they feel. Don't go all Hulkamania but you can be pretty forceful bending just go slow. Now that I think back I may have put a small ball bearing under the ramp and push the high part down and curve around the ball.

Oh yeah. They are not connected at the back. Your's look fine the back needs bent down is all.

Bend that back part by the pin holes that's so high, like a ramp, down even with the front part. Needle nose on the sides of the ramp and roll your hand back towards the pin holes. Don't bend it, more of a roll so the pin will ride smoothly. It should look like a speed bump not a ramp. Equal on the sides like an upside down bowl. When you get the tang in shape, fine tuning the .55" shut off point is easy. You did the exact thing I did! The newer needle valves will not hold the weight of the float like the older Grose valves where they show to turn them upside down to get that .55" gap. No way in hell can you do that with the newer needle valves. They should put a Xerox copy in each rebuild kit telling that. It took me a year to get mine right! But man oh man is there a tremendous difference once you get them right. I'll try and find my old thread and post it in the morning, on my dumb phone now. Sorry. Like this...

If you can get them looking like this to start off with you'll be way ahead. If it ramps up like Evel Kinevel's it's out of whack. The best thing to do is get them opening and closing right side up not upside down like the Just SUs DVD shows. Those are Grose jets and we get the much more sensitive needle valves. I fought this for a year before I figured it out. Car runs better than ever now.

Steve's got it right, I didn't take time to convert to millimeters. 5/16 on the feed, 3/16 on the return is what I have.

https://youtu.be/Ldyx3KHOFXw