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It's my closed head trauma from '97 plus a few 16oz beers. I'll fill in the blanks later today.

@Reptoid Overlords Is about to crank his project. I'm sure you've read something about it? I'm almost positive he had it in an apartment in the beginning. That's way better than riding a motorcycle upstairs to go to Mardi Gras for a couple of weeks. That was easy except for the hard turn I didn't make at the top.

This is down the road but you might as well read up when your piled up in a hotel room. Check Blues Tech Tips for the ZX to Z distributor upgrade if you got the ZX distributor with the motor. Check the ZX alternator upgrade to. I think you need a plug off a ZX to splice into your Zs. Something to snag from a pick and pull you go to when your bored.

Just noticed how worn the driver's side guide is. @SpeedRoo is right. The kits aren't too expensive. Look on zcardepot.com

Are you turning the crank bolt clockwise to tighten the "tight" side before you poke the chain?

I jumped the gun Zed Head. This fits better...

Here's a better shot.

I think you could get at TDC and look at the cam timing mark to see if the chain is worn. A new one will be barely to the left of the groove.

Good catch Zed Head! I need to pay better attention. Didn't even think about that. I have seen those, on my Camry as a matter of fact. That head's been rebuilt I bet. The glue or silicone holding that button on gets too hot and it falls of, voiding the warranty. "heat tabs"

I put some Vise-Grips on the cam and used a big ole cheater pipe on my 1/2" drive with 27mm socket to break the crank nose bolt loose. Same thing to re-tighten.

I was the kid that talked you into putting YOUR hand on the hot stove.

Take a lot of pictures as your take it apart. Don't force the old bolts, they'll snap in a heartbeat. 50/50 acetone and transmission fluid is the best penetrating oil I've ever used. A quart of each will last forever. Buy a spray bottle and mix it as you need to. When you ziploc bag stuff write what it is on a piece of paper, not on the baggie. It'll rub off. Get some thin cheap wire, phone wire for me, and use it to tie bolts into their part. I'll try and add if I can. You're about to have some fun finally. AND the engine stand rotates a lot easier if you take the weight off the front, rope from the ceiling or a floorjack with a stick of wood. Be really careful though, they'll slide out on your foot! The wire I'm talking about is to keep the different length bolts in the right holes. The water pump, front cover, oil pump... Buy a gallon of lacquer thinner, $10, put it in a five gallon bucket with a tight lid. You'll soak a lot of stuff in that then blow the crud off easier trust me.

I see them on ebay from time to time. I'm looking too. Your's are the Scallops right, '71 to '76?

I knew it! You read the National Enquirer when you were young standing in the checkout line. "Enquiring minds want to know" Geek Off 2019 was a success. @240260280 explained it in realative terms as being in the car vs on an engine stand. @Captain Obvious proved it.

Finally! 1 zip tie.

Fuel pressure raises when above 131F from what I've read so far. Seems like the FPR would open up and recirculate the fuel if it was hot enough. Vapor lock, "vayre intressting".

Doesn't each hole on the cam sprocket increase advance by 8 degrees?

Goofing off today I took some measurements on my 280 with the aluminum fuel rail. It goes up and down 20 degrees every few seconds. I guess that's when the excess dumps after the fpr opens up? Anyway the car was 80 degrees cold in my garage before starting. The higher numbers are of course after a quick romp. Fuel rail room temp... Hot closer to the return hose... Front of head... Rear... #3 header runner... Head at room temp... Oh yeah (don't tell my Mom) but here's my next purchase. @JLPurcell didn't you buy something similar to this? Thanks for any advice. Cliff

Another true or false question. Can a timing chain be too tight and cause HP drain? I can't remember if I got the chain on then tightened the guides as far out as they would go. I do remember a rubber like washer that went between the plunger and the housing. It was a ZX timing kit with an extra adjustment or two, IIRC the guides were hard to line up to the 2.4 block.

I can say this from personal experience, can't explain it just say it. True! When I built my '77 I started on #3 with all new stuff. It ran great and had plenty of lowend. Two or 3 years later I did the '72 the same. It hits the redline so fast I can't stand to drive it hard, like beating a cat it just just gets louder. In the summer of 2018 I put the 280 back to #1 after I bought a wedge tool. Ran a good bit worse than I was used to so within one measly day of driving I went back to #3. Now the 240 is going back to at least #2, probably #1, but that chain is so damn tight I'm not sure I'll get the sprocket off and back on in the car. I read that Racer Brown write up on Datsun's 510, L20 I suppose. I came to the understanding, right or wrong's on me, advancing all three things the cam does actually improves performance and efficiency although you lose some top end power. The 280 has an R200 so the redline came slower. The 240 with the r180 goes up too fast and I don't like it. http://www.datsport.com/racer-brown.html

The dvd from ztherapy says loosen the screws on the dome and find where it raises and falls free then tighten the screws.

The book I have says use the higher numbers for chain stretch. Try it and see, all you'll loose is a zip tie.

Wait until about 7p.m. That's when things start getting fuzzy. When I did #3 it was just about impossible to get the sprocket on the cam. Everything was new.

If you get really bored try hole #3 on the cam spocket and see how much it pulls the tensioner in. Just for poops and giggles.