Stanley

Cool. Are you using sketchup pro? I use sketchup but didn't know you can import pictures like that.

Was baffled when I got my aluminum radiator from MSA a couple years ago. Wasted a lot of time going to hardware stores. Called MSA and they didn't know. Finally took it in to Mr. Hose - they identified it as AN dash-6 and fixed me up with the female fitting and a hose barb adapter. Don't know if yours is the same.

How about a warning light instead of a gauge you could set for 14:1 or whatever's right for WOT near top RPM ? For me the main use for a wideband would be as a warning for going too lean while racing / testing etc. Without 6 into 2 headers with 2 senders it might not be very useful for tuning SU's.

Do they still need a heater after the engine is warmed up?

My dad fought corrosion for Naval Air - he got me using phosphoric acid (OSPHO) in my rust war for the old chevy. It's fairly cheap by the gallon and could be used in some kind of sprayer. Have some Eastwood products - maybe they're better - but haven't used them yet.

When it starts to lose power you could try pulling the choke lever back about half way. If that "fixes" it so you can rev higher, the carbs (or one carb) might be set too lean, so raise the floats or lower the nozzles. Thought I had mine set perfect, but a run this afternoon against my neighbor's crx proved otherwise - it's doing the same thing as yours - pulled the choke and was getting power for another 700 rpm - so I'm gonna drop the nozzles 1/4 turn and try again.

On the 405 last Saturday saw a LHD 350z with the fairlady z emblem on the back panel. Guess there's a lot around but first I've noticed. You can buy them from nissan. Way cooler than some other "JDM" stuff - like a "JDM as ----" sticker on any LHD stock height late model car with 22 inch wheels and fender mirrors...

BTW, if you need to have the Z towed (with the front wheels on the ground) do it by the book - with the key lock off - or you'll be doing this, like I did.

Or, if you don't need slots (have a new lock with new screws) use a small sharp punch to make a small hole on the side of the screw heads, then tap them around with a punch or other tool. Cheap and effective - but way too slow for a theft technique.

"If it's on the internet it has to be true".... Did some more search online - including Hank Young's website. Didn't see anything about headers Datsun or otherwise, except motorcycle. Got the impression he could make about anything out of steel though.

For what it's worth: googled Clifford headers and found this reference on improvedtouring.com. "I had one (headers) built by Hank Young who does NISMO's header.." That's about all there was.

There was a small rusty spot - hit it with a rotary wire brush on the drill, put some Ospho. There was a tiny hole and some joints in the sheet metal at the ends, where water could get into areas below - filled them with JB weld. After the girl hit me, the body shop painted it. Looks ok for now. Will wax it next time.

My 73 (9/72) has one fusible link at the starter. Replaced with one from Autozone for a couple dollars when it blew out (forgot to disconnect the battery when tightening the starter connection). If it has any others I don't know about them.

Another low-tech item that might be profitable (or not) to reproduce would be the center caps for those Appliance mag wheels. The old mags look cool and very retro shined up with new "A" caps, see the thread from a couple of days ago. Saw a couple threads about scrounging around to find the caps. Maybe the market wouldn't be limited to Datsuns.

So 96 octane from the 70's = 87 today ? Learn something every day. However I'm not running the stock head. Used 87 & 89 octane with the original 73 head with no problem. After it went belly up, my mechanic put a stock top end from a 80-81 Skyline (and who knows what other euro/JDM cars); maybe it has a higher CR but anyway it was pinging on 89 at stock advance setting. Went to 92 octane instead of retarding the timing, no ping with 92 but I think it ran better on 94 (Arizona) gas. BTW I followed Ozconnection's build thread on that head a couple years ago with great interest. Hope to do similar if the money comes in.

The wheel looks like Appliance mesh, dealer installed option. Should be a lot still around from upgrades to Panasports or something. Maybe somebody will sell just one. There was a thread last week from somebody who made them all shiny, check that. That's a lot of car for 350.

Yeah, the neutral drop sounds like something for rental cars only. Not sure how this thread went from gas mileage to AT's and drag racing unless going fast is more fun than saving gas, but I'll take partial responsibility. Hadn't heard of the trans brake, there's also the line lock. No drag strip nearby so it's once a year for me - no plans for mods like that. The street racers want a strip - so do the cops, to minimize street racing - but it never seems to happen. It's been many years since there was legal drags in the South Bay, so there's a lot of street racing. I've gone against everything from Mazarati's to moms in SUV's. They see a Datsun and just want to race.

Gotta correct my error: 73 owner's manual say's don't downshift to 2nd (or 1st) over 75 mph, not 70. Also it says if you downshift to 1st it will shift to 2nd and stay there until you get to 30 mph. Will have to try that. Also it recommends not shifting to 1st over 45 (I think) mph because it could cause a slide. Which might be just the thing for some driving situations - like a rally. BTW before a trip to the drags I asked my mechanic (who has many years of race and resto experience) if it would hurt the AT to rev it up a launch with the brake. He said no problem for the transmission at all (might be different for other AT's). If anthing let go it would be in the drive train behind the transmission and that wouldn't happen unless the parts were worn out or defective or you had a heavily modded engine. I like the AT OK but can see a disadvantage in racing - you can't (or shouldn't) downshift for that 90 mph corner. When I was a dumb kid, J.D. and I would roadrace almost every day down through the foothills, in our parent's station wagons. Mine was automatic and I slamed it through the gears to slide every corner. Never hurt the trans - but went offroad a few times.

MSA (click their logo on this site) sells the "synchrotester" (the one used in the ZT video) for about $30 and the synchrometer for about $50. I like the synchrometer cause it has numbers you can record, but it's plastic so it could break I guess if you drop it on concrete. Both do the job. The tuneup in the FSM is as easy to follow as any but it leaves out the rich-lean check with the push pins under the carb (at least my 72 S-30 engine manual leaves it out). Tuning by ear is for experts. The chart in FSM shows different mix settings for average temperatures, so for best performance in a location that's hot in summer and cold in winter, carb mix tuning is twice a year. A stopwatch and notebook are also handy for cheapo performance tuning. NO TUNE - NO LIFE.

Got the owner's manual for the 73, it says you can shift the AT manually, but it warns not to downshift to 2nd over 70 mph (maybe cause it could redline?).

Thanks for the primers. No problem shifting manually and any mods to the trans would be over my head and way down the list anyway. The Z gets good mileage even with the lead foot but at around $4 per gal for 92 octane in CA (owner's manual recommends 96) every bit helps.

What's torque converter lockup? I did adjust the bands to factory spec.

All this time, when I want MPG, I let the AT shift itself (about 2200 to 2nd and 2500 into 3rd, when easy on the gas pedal), but maybe I had it all wrong. After all, stick usually beats AT for mpg. Because of shifting at a higher rpm? For performance, I shift about 4700 - per dyno run and the operator's advice - for my setup, sorta stock - this worked well at the strip, beating reported best times for AT stocker by a couple secs. So when to shift for economy? To stay in the best torque zone? Guess it would would be similar for a stick, a little different with 1 or 2 more gears. Concerned with around town driving, on the highway wind resistance (increase per square of velocity) would govern and I would be in good torque zone anyway. It's counterintuitive, but maybe I should shift manually and let it rev more for better economy?

On the linkage between the carbs, close to the rear carb, there's an adjustment screw. Turn that to open more throttle on the front carb. There's more to it than that as you know (see the video), but it's a start.

It was a long time ago cause I don't remember which car it was but anyway it wouldn't start. Got a push from somebody and after pushing it a long time it finally started, and somehow that "fixed' it.