ollie

I used a turbo oil pump in my 73. Original was ok but I figured this would be good insurance for the expense of the build. Ordered from msa.

Norm is local to me and I'm using him extensively to restore my car. Let me say this I would not be any where near the point I'm at now without his help. Very fair pricing, excellent work. Any one who wants to see the quality of his work can contact me via pm.

That looks amazing! I'm going to use the pics of the ebrake to help me re-install mine.

OK that's an awesome way to do the stripes, no need to raid the peanut butter jar in order to remove the pesky polish which can build up between stripes and the paint. I think that car of yours is going to be simply awesome. Mine had the stirpes, plus the original louver / sport mirror / hatch tail package, all which have now been removed. So I'm going to just to totally stock for the time being, then stripe it after the fact with some quality 3M stuff.

looks great! Mine is all done and ready fir paint. We found some ugly old braised in repair hiding under the seat brace on both sides! Had to cut it out and repair correctly, another unplanned 20 hours! Any the rest of the floor is great. Now the tarpazoid reinforcement piece on the front wheelwell will be drilled out tomorrow, cavity sealed and properly attached. Where did you buy the 240Z stripe? Mine needs to go back on too. Yours looks amazing!

That rust in the dog leg started at the front of the rocker do no way what you found is the end of it. Go see the second car but again, beware of the "no rust" claim. Also when you pull the rubber triangle out to inspect the rocker also feel the inner fender lower.

Stick your hand inside the front fender and feel the sheet metal at the top of the rocker. Crap gets stuck in here and trapped with water draining from the cowl and I will bet you find rust. Once it starts it spreads like wild fire down the rocker. Ask me how I know on my super low mileage, "no rust" 73. 9 times out of 10 no rust on these cars means no rust holes larger than a dime which you can see. So mine is now on the rotisserie for the full meal deal along with body cavity sealant.

Quick question for those who have installed OEM bushings; does it matter if you install the bushing and flare at the top or bottom of the bar? I'm guessing not, but I would like this to be as original. Thanks.

For seal, I went with the vintage rubber kit at around $600. Then I ordered the remaining seals from msa, all but one of the headlight seals was available. If you went with a kit that's probably what the hold up is. In my case most of my seals were in amazingly great shape so I can pick and choose which fit best.

Wow looks great, mine is nearing paint now, I think I should have the shell back by the end of Feb which works well on my side. Congrats with the progress, mine is still in high build primer but we're getting closer!

Congrats, my cheque (yes, I'm Canadian and that's how we spell it) book thanks you.

I did finally receive mine and it looks good to go.

VISA will take this very seriously and will treat it as a goods paid for but not shipped. As a card holder in good standing and provided you paid by visa, they will investigate the seller as a fraudulent transaction. This is why I always fund any online transaction with my visa. I think you will be fine.

Op did you pay by visa? If so just dispute the charges. Too bad about your experience but thanks for sharing.

Yes and I read through his external page on the car's build...you better buy it asap, the video made me want to buy it as a "stop gap" until mine is finished. I think that is one hell of a deal. As for the brakes, as long as the hardware is in good shape you are good to go. EDIT: What I did for my brakes was send the calipers off to be totally restored, not just rebuilt. All hardware was torn down and cad plated, they came back looking so nice I won't use the Arizona Z brakes I bought but bear in mind my car won't put down nearly the power the blue car does. That 0 - 100 run looks awesome, I'd like to see how it stands up to my 335i (not exactly stock).

If that car checks out clear in the usual spots for rust then it appears to be a smoking deal as a driver. I would have bought this in a heart beat but I'm now eyes deep into my near concourse restoration. This car will be gone fast!

Shadbolt in Vancouver, BC can do this as well.

Update; I heard from him and he claims all is good, and it will be sent out tomorrow. Text is the best way to contact him.

I too paid for an exhaust last summer but nothing yet. Unfortunate.

When I was buying my Z I looked wandered briefly over early911sregistry.org to see what an early 911S might run...it seemed $50k for an S was common place, plus restoration and you are quickly north if $100k so the Z deal closed...300+ hours into the body at a restoration shop later plus plus plus....the 911S is starting to sound like a decent buy, . Having said that, the same level of resto on a 911 would have cost at least 3x what I will have in the Z.

One other note; to me at least, a 911 should be a coupe. I'm not a fan of cabs at all, and targas barely make it for me due to the lesser rollover protextion compared to a coupe body. AmAzes me Porsche builds a turbo cab but if they sell, then so be it.

To me, the driving experience provided by a 911 is unlike any other. Rear engine, never lift in a corner, not many other cars offer this type of visceral driver's experience. The Z, for me at least, is a nostalgia car. My first car was a 72 240Z and now I'm eyes deep into a nut and bolt restoration on my "guaranteed rust free" (crock) 73. Since this Z will be around for a while, and I can't shake the want / need for a 911, it will need to be satisfied as a daily driver, hence the C4S. 911s are amazing cars, imho, as are Z's.

I love the '87 - '89 G50 911 coupes, the 930's are a riot to drive too. Good luck with the sale and enjoy the 930...I browse rennlist as I'm interested in a 997 C4S at some point but the aircooled section seems to get a lot of traffic too.

I just did this on the weekend and once it moved it was pretty easy to pull out. However it is equally easy to mash the threads so be prepared to buy new ones and associated hardware, all of which is available at the usual suppliers.

start with something gentle like clay, it will very likely remove all the crap off the lowers. WD40 works too but you need to put it on the paint surfaces before contamination...I use it on my track wheels for the M3 since the track pad's dust is a pita to remove if it gets wet at all.