ollie

I have a set of Stahl headers and the only issue I had was the flange is not the same thickness as the stock intake manifold so I had to have crescent shaped shims machined....I was pretty disappointed in that and I hope what I had made up will work, they seem OK but given the fact they (Stahl) have been making headers forever, including for the Z, I didn't even give it any thought. The nice thing is you send in a template of your head and they build it up from there, mine are very true and I'm pleased. The pipes collect a bit close to the floor and I have an extra sleve as a heat shield to protect the floor. Also, mine did not include a collector so I had to pay extra for that too. But bearing that all in mind, and if I had thought to include the flange thickness of the stock intake, I would have zero complaints, the Stahl headers are very well built for $900.

Brent looks great...I'm a bit further ahead, and am really just down to exhaust which is being assembled one cut and bend at a time out of a 304 stainless steel builder's kit. I am not even going to try and weld it myself so I measure, grind, cut then have a guy weld it up for me...the last nasty section from the diff carrier to the Ansa should be finished today, then I can fit the hangers. I too thought I would have been finished a while ago and have only 15 minutes running time on the motor, I did get to do some 10 mph lengths of the lot out back so I can say I have driven it! Good luck...things which slowed me down were vanishing grounds, and a clutch issue which meant I had to pull the transmision down...which may have to come down again as I think the output shaft seal isn't in right, arg.

I measured my clutch up last night. All Nissan parts from Courtesy (pressure plate, clutch disk, throwout bearing) purchasesd for a stock 240Z, with what I believe are the original 1973 transmission and collar...to the fork finger I measured as best I could at 95 mm. The finger does taper slightly and all is installed shfiting smooth. There were other issues which are best left unsaid...all good now.

Wow, only $11K? That looks like a lot of work for not a lot of money, and that car is absolutely one worth saving, hope you're back on the road soon.

On the eve of pulling the tranny I decided I would yank the clutch master. Sure enough it was seizing at the end of the throw, limiting it by 1/2". I bench bled the new master then bled the line, done. Thank you all for your input.

Thanks Zed for your comments. I removed the dust cover easily off the fork, and the fork appears to be in the correct position with exactly the play you referenced, fore and aft. I am starting to think the release bearing collar could be the issue. The car is on a hoist so pulling the transmission isn't a big deal, just frustrating when all seems in order but obviosuly something is not. I will get the transmission out tomorrow night and will start measuring....kicking myself for not having kept the original clutch parts for sure.

Tackled this further last night, no doubt the transmission has to come down. No way will it engage with the motor running so something is not right. Either the fork isn't in the guide slots or the throw out bearing is off sized compared to the new Nissan disk / pressure plate.

I was able to measure the throw on the fork and I have 5/8's, not the 3/4" called for in the FSM. The other note is the slave piston is what I would call sloppy at rest, in that it sits rather dead and doesn't really make contact with the fork until the pedal is moved...is this correct? I'm leaning towards ordering a new slave and seeing how that goes. Thanks agian for reading and offering comments.

2 quick points; the car was assembled over the fall at the end of a lenghtly body restoration. It has not been out of the shop and is on a lift. I know the clutch isn't engaging all the way as when I crank the car with the clutch engaged I can feel the starter motor slightly rock the car. Further if I roll the car in gear, with the clutch engaged, there is resistance compared to rolling it in neutral, plus gear noise. When I first bled the clutch I could not turn the car over with it in gear and the clutch engaged as it would move the car forward. So that led me to believe there is air trapped, which has imporved but obviously the fork is not moving forward enough yet. The bore on the slave seems to fit the fork perfectly. I'm going to get a helper to be in the car while it is in the air to see how much more the fork should be moving forward. Thanks to all.

I pulled the invoice from Courtesy and here are the parts: 1 x Pressure Plate - 1970 to 1974 240Z, 260Z (CLPP-001) 1 x Clutch Slave Cylinder - 07/1972 to 1976 240Z, 260Z, 280Z (SLCL-002) 1 x Clutch Master Cylinder - 1970 to 1978 240Z, 260Z, 280Z (MSTERCL-001) 1 x Clutch Release Bearing - 1970 to 1989 Z, S30, S130 and Z31 (TOBRNG-001) 1 x Clutch Disc - 1970 to 1983 S30 and S130 Z 2-Seater (CLDISC-001) All items were Nissan original but I did not record the part numbers off the boxes...I have bled the system again, and I'm making a bit of progress it seems. I'm going to go at it again and I think this will stand as a lesson learned in that bench bleeding is mandatory with a system which has no fluid to begin with.

I'm inclined to agree, and the system is bled so I'm thinking the slave is possible. I need to have someone engage the clutch while I'm under the car. As for old parts I might have the old slave, and the slave could be bad too. It is sluggish when I toggle the fork.

Sure the pressure plate, clutch disk and release bearing are all stock Nissan parts procured through Courtesy. I don't have the invoices in front of me but I can likely dig up the part numbers. Not thrilled about pulling the transmission but I will if need be.

Hello, I am in the final stages of assembling my car after extensive restoration and I'm kicking myself for not having bench bled my clutch parts. Anyway I have bled the clutch per the FSM, and using a pressure bleeder, the former with more success. I have fun about a half litre through the system now using the FSM method and when I crank over the car I can still feel the car move forward ever so slightly. Which is a massive improvement over how it would lurch forward initially. The slave is brand new Nissan as well, all new hoses, and clutch master. The car is also slightly more difficult to roll if the car is in gear and the clutch engaged than if it is simply in neutral. Which means the slave isn't moving the fork enough in my mind. The car is a '73 and I believe there isn't any adjustment on the slave. I searched around but if I have missed something obvious my appologies. Thanks in advance!

I had the bumpers on my '73 rechromed locally here in Vancouver, BC. The was no rust and very little was required in terms of bending, etc...this covered the over rider bars and everything else to the tune of $1,800 and I still had to paint the back side to protect...I know there are places in the States like Denver Bumper who will do this work for a lot less money but I wanted to be able to deal locally in case something went sideways. It is true that the process has escalated incredibly over the years...but I'm very pleased with the results.

Nice car and as one who is at the final restoration stage that price looks attractive to me. I spent about that in body work alone and to be honest I now have an over restored car which might mot see much street time. However you can't put a price on how much fun I have had along the way and I'm thrilled with the results. Mine is a 4/73 car and soon as the exhaust is up next week I will put up a thread.

Tested my vintage rubber kit last weekend and it works great...doors, hatch, etc...the hatch is a but "high" but the seal will sit down over time. I had to put a but of silicone grease at the top of the hatch as the body kept pushing the seal over and now it sits fine. I'm pleased.

Very cool car...BTW the '66 442 on the RH side under "most viewed ads" is about 10' away from my '73, which will be fired (the Z) for the first time this weekend after a year long intense restoration. We have a shop area set aside within our coprorate offices. Makes for a nice break during the day.

Quick update: I ordered the HP Shield from Verocious Motrosports. It is a 3" x 14" sheet comprised of stainless steel, ceramic and stainless mesh which can be timmred down. The length I need is about 7" in total so I might double it up. The wrap is attached with stainless straps which work the same as zap straps. I should have this kit in a few days so I update as to how it worked out. I don't have much space at all between the header pipe and the floor, maybe 1/3rd of an inch so it will be close. This seemed more permanent than wrapping it.

Thanks for the wrap tip. As for bending the collector as a unit I don't think that's possible so worst case it goes back to Staph. Mean time I will wrap it and see how it goes. Thanks guys.

Agreed, well I think I have some thinking to do. I'm not sure that bending the primaries is much of an option either but if I could buy myself another 1/4" that would do the trick I think. Since the header is on the car I can't see a logical point where it could be bent easily other than reshaping the primaries at the flange. I'm also thinking of putting a sleeve into the collector to see if some gentle tq might help it along. This might be the easiest option at this point, short of hammering in the floor, which isn't an option at this point!

Thanks a lot for the note. All mounts are brand new, engine and trans, and it isn't so much the tapping the floor but frying the sealant, undercoat and paint since it is so close to the foot well. I may look at wrapping this area just before the collector as the checks written to the body shop for body work are burned in my mind still, call it vanity, and I would like to keep it looking nice. As you can likely tell, this car won't be tracked. Any way I was very fortunate in that the machine shop made the stepped washers matched exactly to the intake and header, when both were off the car so clamping on both appears to be excellent. The one stud, which is not shared, next to the first primary was tough to torque but I think it is OK now, expecially since there isn't much tq needed to seal the gasket with the aluminum head.

Hi all, I have finally installed my Stahl header and one set of 3 primaries runs within 1/4" of the foot well. I have 2 questions for those who have installed these headers; 1. did you have the same clearance issues and if so, how did you deal with it? Banging in the floor isn't an option as the car has been totally restored. I don't see any way that I could heat up the pipe and bend them over without wrecking the header. I'm also hoping I don't have to send this back to Stahl to be worked over but that is an option I suppose. I could also look at bending the pipe which is closest to the floor too, and wrapping it in header wrap at this area only. The other challenge I had with this header was the flange not being the same thickness as the intake manifold. This was resolved by having a machine shop make up some shims for the common studs but what a pain. Any thoughts and feedback is appreciated. I would like to be able to use this awesome header but I don't want to cook up the floor. Many thanks.

Banzai: http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catRequests.php I also replaced the filler neck and all the tank hardware too.

I just replaced all the hoses with NOS and the entire process was a PITA. You absoltuely need to grease the fittings on and once all are in place, jockeying the vent tank is a thrill on its own. I should have greased the chassis gromits which protect the hoses as well, they kept pulling off and are a painful to keep in place. I was fortunate in that I was able to source all hoses and gromits so everything is brand new, along with the assembly of the car as it is now finally off the rotissorie.

ok figured it out, stepped washers to manage the difference between the Stahl header flange and the intake.