Walter Moore

Actually the Geo Metro was a Suzuki something or other... at least the POS 91 Geo that we have was made by Suzuki. (Proving that not all Japanese cars are worthy of ownership.) I have been told that there was a Geo that was based on a Toyota model, but I do not know which one it was. In any event the fact that GM PURCHASED a car from Toyota or Suzuki and private labeled it does not in any way taint the Corolla. It is still a Toyota, made by Toyota.

Broken transmission? I know that isn't helping, but...

Personally, I think that this thread actually increases the value of the car. Not as a "car" you understand... But as a historical artifact. It has opened a window into the past, and exposed dirty laundry and bad blood that most of us never knew existed. I don't know any of the people involved, and have no basis to trust or distrust any of them. But I sincerely hope that whoever buys this car finds this tread, prints it out, and preserves it. This is special, in spite of the obvious pain for those involved.

Personally I wouldn't buy a sun roof on a NEW car... much less install one in my 35 year old classic. But to each his own.

On my Z, April 1971, they were steel with a black plastic coating. (And when I took the car apart they had rust holes in them...) 240znz, is there any chance that a P.O. made some aluminum plates to replace the rusty originals?

Cleaning the aluminum head must reveal all sorts of stains or something, because when I got my head rebuild it was painted an "Aluminum" color. In fact, I think that every aluminum cylinder head I ever took in to a machine shop on any car cam back painted... I could be wrong...

What he said... Every bit of it.

Do a search on the site, but if I remember it is similar to a small block V8 in total weight. According to this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18438&highlight=Engine+weight It is 350 with the head in place. Whatever it is, it is a heavy piece of iron for such a small displacement. Be sure to use metric grade 10.8 or 12.8 grade bolts to hold it, and the ones that attach it to the transmission are too short by the way... (The car parts stores will call those "grade 8" bolts, because that is the SAE equivalent)

FSM stands for Factory Service Manual. They are talking about the book that Nissan wrote for the dealer service departments. Since you have a 240Z the Haynes manual that you want is the one for the 240Z, 260Z, & 280Z, but be aware that it has errors in many areas. The FSM is more accurate. (as it should be since Nissan wrote it...)

Most of my insulators were usable, but for the others I used four layers of the foam double stick tape (the kind that is used to mount mirrors). I put two layers on each side of the brake lines and then fabricated the mounting clip covers from 24 gage sheet steel. Once I was all fastened down it seems solid enough, but then I have not got the car running yet to know for sure. I only did this in places that are easy to see (like the engine compartment) because I plan on inspecting these areas often.

Ford might have independent rear suspension in OZ, but here in the U.S. all (both?) of their rear-drive cars are still live axle, except perhaps for the GT40... At least the Mustang and Crown Victoria/Marquis are still live rear axle. I don't think that they have any others... Just the two refugees from that 70's show.

Hope that you have an air dam, or a spook otherwise that wing will just enhance the front lift at speed. But it does look nice.

Actually, on the early Z cars the main ball joint is pressed into the steering arm. The steering arm bolts to the bottom of the strut, and the other side of the ball joint bolts to the lower control arm. You do have to remove the ball joint for the steering rack from the steering arm on the car, but the main ball joint can be pressed out with an arbor press after you unbolt the ball joint - steering arm assembly from the strut and arm. It think that I just used a "pickle fork" to get the tie-rod end loose from the steering arm, but the one you have photographed should work even better.

If that is true, why do so many of the organizations that I deal with include a Business reply mail envelope but tell me that I can save them money by putting a stamp on my reply? Are they just trying to justify a lower rate for the following year?

When this thread started I almost commented on this, but I wanted to wait until Alan chimed in because this is one of the (perhaps few) subjects where I agree with him. I find the whole "series" thing very contrived, and trying to force a Japanese car into the U.S. style "model year" mold even more so. The U.S. model year pattern is useful here because every July G.M., Ford, and Chrysler shut all their plants down for two weeks starting over the July 4th holiday and do a full "Model year changeover". Then after they get the line running again they basically do not change anything until at least the Christmas shutdown. So all cars made from July to December are identical. (or are supposed to be...) Only minor changes can be made over the Christmas shutdown because it lasts only one week. The result is that all parts for cars of a particular "Model Year" are interchangeable. Car makers outside the U.S. have never really embraced such a scheme. (Which produces such odd circumstances as there being a 82 Corvette and a 84 Corvette, but no 83 model, at least officially.) I also think that the whole "Designed for the U.S. market" theme that seems to flow from so many sources regarding the 240Z is the height of arrogance. Nissan is a Japanese company, and has been pointed out on this site before their sales in the U.S. in the late 60's were minimal. Granted they did adapt the car to our market. Their U.S. division may even have advertised it that way. But for them to have had known in advance that it would turn out to be as popular as it became would have required a pretty powerful crystal ball or something.

That fuse was blown on my car when I started to put the dash back together. It looked like a P.O. had nearly disassembled the entire dash to try to understand what was wrong with the fan. BTW, the plastic casing was intact. Perhaps it was just a stress fracture.

Oh no! It has that word in the posting... "Rare" that's never good...:cheeky:

Try searching the site for "Pertronix tach" I came up with this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8848&highlight=pertronix+tach

By the way, on the subject of series B transmissions. To install the series B transmission in a series A car you will have to cut the floor to allow the shifter to reach 1st and 3rd. On my car the center console was also broken out at the front to allow the shift lever to reach. I was never able to get the inner shift boot mounted to my satisfaction. With the floor cutout, the opening is too big for the series A inner shift boot. The later shift boots appear to be held in place with either bolts or screws, but I resisted that idea because the brake and fuel lines are directly under the passenger side of the shift boot mounting location. (passenger side for left drive = right side of car Dang Yankee that I am) After all the trouble that I had bending those lines (by hand) I was not about to take the risk that I would drill through one of them. I eventually gave up and used clear storage tape to hold it down while I installed the center console. I am still not happy with the result.

I was involved with a discussion about this subject last march: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21194&highlight=centerforce From what I can tell of that discussion the throw-out bearing collar selection is based more on the clutch pressure plate than the transmission. My 71 had a later series B 4-speed when I bought it and it had the longer (series A) throw-out collar. There are links in that thread to other discussions on this subject. Because I installed the Centerforce brand clutch I eventually bought the throw-out bearing collar recommended for that clutch. If you are keeping the existing clutch it may be that you need to keep that collar. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that if you put too long of a collar in you will never be able to get the clutch to fully engage, and too short of a collar will prevent disengagement. (Real helpful huh... next I should give a dissertation on pencils or something else that is obvious.)

My friend who drives an Infinity has finally gotten to where he doesn't flinch when I ask him how his Datsun is running... But I suspect some folks would consider that fighting words. I did however talk him into signing up for Nissan Sport, so he must be taking it pretty well.

Well actually the original question was about REMOVING the hoses to the heater and carbs. The suggestion was that even in a warm climate, where there is no need for heat in the car, having the capability to use the heater as an emergency radiator to prevent engine damage during an over-heat event might be a feature that would merit some consideration before removing the hoses to the heater core. On the other hand, if the heater is NEVER used for a number of years, as I suspect would be the case in Florida, the odds are that the first time you tried to use it you would discover that it had corroded so badly that the car would fill with hot steam. I have used the heater in a car to stop it from overheating, but I have also had an old heater core explode (more or less) so I can see both sides of that discussion.

Dang, Where was that car when I went out and bought all that new sheet metal? But as for "restorable"... No title, and it has been wrapped around a tree at some point, check out the missing door and bent driver's side rocker panel. Dayton is just a couple of hours from my house, but there is nothing on that car that I need... anymore.

I did the same thing sort of, but I created bitmaps of silver on black, then printed them on clear self stick adhesive labels, and cut them to size. The file attached is what I ended up using. I am sure someone can improve on these with a little effort. 240Z Dash Labels.bmp

For the record, car stereo amplifiers are generally "class A" (linear) amplifiers, and as such are only 50% efficient. Thus if your stereo has a total OUTPUT of 200W it will require an INPUT of 400W when it is at maximum output power. (Which one hopes is never, but I digress...) 400W at 12V (Actually closer to 13.8V if the car is running.) is around 30A. (33.33 for 12V, 29.99 for 13.8V) The difference between the input and output power is lost as heat. (The power transistors get hot, that is why they have a heat sink.) Some amplifiers used to be "class B" (Push/Pull) but even those are only 65% efficient. PWM power circuits can be much more efficient but are not normally used for audio amplifiers because they produce distortion. Yes I know that the "factory" alternator only puts out 35A, and Nissan thought that was plenty, but remember the stock radio had a max output of 6W. If you are keeping your car in "Showroom new" condition, or running a race car (in the day time) then yes, the stock 35A alternator is fine. But for anyone who has added accessories, or off-road lights, they will likely need more power.